Suspension & Brakes - Just finished installing PHR...I'd like to make a suggestion

Well, the suspension modding has begun! I had the SFC and STB mod done as soon as I bought the car, but the REAL suspension mods started today!

Just installed a UMI Performance Panhard Rod (non adjustable) and I've got a suggestion to make.

I found it much easier to remove and replace the stock PHR by putting a light load on the rear end with my floor jack. This made removal of the bolts through the bushings MUCH easier.

When I was removing the stock PHR, I had to hit the bolt out with a rubber mallet, then the other side came off real easy. When it came time to put the new PHR on, I was :mad: because I thought it didn't fit :judge:

Turns out, if you just put a light load on the rear, you can line up the holes in the bushing with the holes in the brackets much easier.

The f'ed up thing is, when I put my buddies PHR on, it'll take me all of 20 minutes :eyes:

FWIW, any diy'er who hasn't already invested in a decent air compressor and pnuematic tools should seriously consider it. Made the job a whole lot easier! Oh, and pull the rear wheels out, makes the job twice as easy as well IMO.

why did you get a non adjustable?

I heard and adjustable is better.........jw.......

Honestly, cause I don't really have a clue as to how I would make any adjustments. That combined with the fact that I don't plan on lowering the rear since my car came equipped with the SLP Bilstein Suspension package. The rear is already lowered about an 1".

For those who might come across this... Adjusting a panhard bar is shade tree mechanic work.

Make sure the car is on the ground for this.

If you have 9.5 wide wheels or smaller (no fear of tire rubbing) You can tape a string and plumb bob to the rear quarter panel in roughly the same spot on each side then use a square to measure the space between the string and the wheel... shorten/extend the panhard bar until the distance is the same on both sides.

If you have wide wheels and want to ensure they won't rub... measure the distance between the inside sidewall and the inner fender well on each side and adjust the phb until the space is even from side to side. I used various sized blocks of wood to make wooden "feeler guages" measuring devices work too

For those who might come across this... Adjusting a panhard bar is shade tree mechanic work.

Make sure the car is on the ground for this.

If you have 9.5 wide wheels or smaller (no fear of tire rubbing) You can tape a string and plumb bob to the rear quarter panel in roughly the same spot on each side then use a square to measure the space between the string and the wheel... shorten/extend the panhard bar until the distance is the same on both sides.

If you have wide wheels and want to ensure they won't rub... measure the distance between the inside sidewall and the inner fender well on each side and adjust the phb until the space is even from side to side. I used various sized blocks of wood to make wooden "feeler guages" measuring devices work too

The above quote is somewhat true, you should also put someone in the driver seat who weighs the same as you. The load changes the geometry ever so slightly and will change your measurements when adjusting the PHB. That way when you get in the car to drive the rear end is lined up precisely.

does this affect your handling?

Is this more for auto cross?

does this affect your handling?

Not really unless you are drag racing, but if it's not centered correctly it will put excessive wear on the u-joints, bushings, and tires.

Is this more for auto cross? :huh:
The part or centering your rear end?

For those who might come across this... Adjusting a panhard bar is shade tree mechanic work.

Make sure the car is on the ground for this.

If you have 9.5 wide wheels or smaller (no fear of tire rubbing) You can tape a string and plumb bob to the rear quarter panel in roughly the same spot on each side then use a square to measure the space between the string and the wheel... shorten/extend the panhard bar until the distance is the same on both sides.

If you have wide wheels and want to ensure they won't rub... measure the distance between the inside sidewall and the inner fender well on each side and adjust the phb until the space is even from side to side. I used various sized blocks of wood to make wooden "feeler guages" measuring devices work too

Obviously I didn't do enough research. Had I known this from the get go, I probably would have opted for the adjustable. It's okay though. Thanks for the info.

The above quote is somewhat true, you should also put someone in the driver seat who weighs the same as you. The load changes the geometry ever so slightly and will change your measurements when adjusting the PHB. That way when you get in the car to drive the rear end is lined up precisely.

Right on. If you're really picky, you'd want to take it to the alignment shop and have it aligned with you in the car too.