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Anti-seize on header bolts?

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Old 07-30-2005, 04:16 PM
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Default Anti-seize on header bolts?

I'm doing an install of Pacesetter headers. Should I put either anti-seize or lock tight on the header bolts? Should I just put them in as is?

Thanks!
Old 07-30-2005, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
I'm doing an install of Pacesetter headers. Should I put either anti-seize or lock tight on the header bolts? Should I just put them in as is?

Thanks!
When I put LTs on my old LT1 I just put the header bolts in....
Old 07-30-2005, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by OneMeanZ
When I put LTs on my old LT1 I just put the header bolts in....
Same here. But I am going to taking the headers off pretty soon.
Old 07-30-2005, 04:57 PM
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I would never put loc-tite on them. I have usually just put them in.
Old 07-30-2005, 05:47 PM
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Sweet...I'm just gonna put them in and call it a day. Do I have to worry about torque specs on them? Anyone know what the spec is?!
Old 07-30-2005, 05:47 PM
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Yeah dont put loc-tite on them
Old 07-30-2005, 09:16 PM
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I not 100% on this but,I have read that you should use anti-sieze because the heads are aluminum (softer metal) and you don't want to accidently cross thread and/or damage the threads when putting the header bolts in...

Maybe a good set of locking header bolts would be good if you are worried about them backing out...just a though man...

-Milt
Old 07-30-2005, 10:27 PM
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The stock manifold bolts are a special kind of bolt (can't remember the technical term) but they have pretty good retention. And he's right about the aluminum, just be careful, I use a dab of anti-seize on the tip about every other time i re-install them.

Torque specs from my 2002 Helm manual...

I'll paraphrase... Tighten 11 foot-lbs working center out the first pass... then tighten to 18 foot-lbs center out for the second pass...

I usually go over them again to make sure before i close the hood.. then again after 100 miles
Old 07-30-2005, 10:38 PM
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Use anti-seize. Retorque the bolts 3 times after heat cycles. I torqued mine to 25 ft-lbs, well a few of them anyway as my torque wrench is 1/2" drive it just won't fit on some bolts.
Old 07-30-2005, 11:22 PM
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I've had my stockers in my LT's for about 200 miles now. Thye haven't walked out. I checked them after 100 miles prior to install, stillTQ'd.. I never though of using anti-seize.

No loc-tite... MABIE a SMALL dab of the blue suff.. But otherwise, NO... I've been told by experienced personell that it's a bad idea.. -w/ aluminum heads anyway..

Last edited by bayer-z28; 07-30-2005 at 11:28 PM.
Old 07-30-2005, 11:25 PM
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you might want to check what temps they can even function under.....I am pretty sure lock-tite will just burn away under high temps
Old 07-31-2005, 07:30 AM
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I use never-seize on just about everything. I've never had anything back out, and it's indespensable on stainless. Aluminum and stainless gall threads easily. Just be careful you don't over-torque.

And, don't go crazy globbing it on.
Old 07-31-2005, 05:51 PM
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Anti seize is good. I use it on my plugs every change. Better to spend a little time putting on a thin layer of anti seize than screwing up aluminum threads.
IMO.
Old 08-04-2005, 12:14 PM
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I put antiseize on plugs.. because I change them regularly. I do not put antiseize on header bolts becuase I do not want them backing out.
Old 08-04-2005, 12:30 PM
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Anti-seize and lock-tite are basically opposites. Just put the bolts in and torque to spec. I would never put anit-seize on something that I don't plan on changing periodically (headers). I don't see why anti-seize prevents cross-threading or stripping, that's just user error. Anti-seize just makes it easier to remove the bolt. It's a lubricant.
Old 08-04-2005, 02:22 PM
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when I did my longtubes I noticed the stock bolts already had anti-seize on them, they havn't come lose yet, but i just installed them. On my other header installs I put the anti stuff on and had to retighten the bolts twice after the heat cycle, but after that they never backed out. I had a hell of a time getting my bolts out this last time, they were really stuck in there. I always use the stuff anytime I put a steel object into an aluminum one, because something about the way the metals interact make them want to fuse together, and if I'm not mistaken over time they actually can. So I'd rather put that stuff on knowing I can take the bolts out without breaking one off inside. I've had header bolts snap, and it sucks.
Old 08-04-2005, 02:34 PM
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Anti-seize doesnt prevent cross-threading and stripping, but it does prevent thread galling which aluminum threads are highly susceptible to. It is a good idea to use it.

Mike
Old 08-04-2005, 07:56 PM
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It's been my experience that anti-seize makes cross-threading less likely. Something about lubrication and everything going together smoothly. I couldn't write a paper on it, but it seems to work that way in my wrenching.
Old 08-04-2005, 08:47 PM
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Loc-tite + Aluminum heads = Bad combination. You can just re-use the stockers, but if you are worried about them backing out, just get locking bolts. I tried putting Stage 8's in, but the bolts were to big for the holes in the heads, why you ask? I have no clue. Good luck with everything.
Old 08-06-2005, 12:37 AM
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Lock-tight is fine to use with aluminum but I don't use it on header bolts, they are hard enough to get on and off as it is. I have noticed that it helps to prevent steel to aluminum corrosion as well, maybe not as well as anti-seize but better than nothing. I use either Anti-seize or lock-tight on just about every bolt or nut I install. I do use anti-seize on header bolt, especially with aluminum heads. Just use good copper or aluminum gaskets and retighten em a couple of times as has already been menteined.


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