Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hello. Well i am in a deliema. I cannot figure out which route to take. I am going for a 100% streetable set up. Iw ill take it to the track a few times also but it will mainly live on the street. I want it friendly so i dont run in many, or no, problems. I was thinking of going with a nice head cam set up and than spray a 150 shot on top of that. I was directed towards AFR 205 heads but after investigating, they are very pricey. I am a 16 year old on a budget with a fairly good paying job, but still, im only 16. I have a little left to pay off on my car before its all mine, but should be finished real soon here, than i can start saving for the mods. I work at the country club so pay is very nice and i get in a lot of hours. Ok so for the Head Cam set up, here are some questions i have..
1.) Whats a good streetable set of heads that are for me on a budget, something nice but dont need top of the line quality. I would like to spend around $1,500 on heads or cheaper.
2.) All cams are roughly same price so whats a good one to match the heads above. Member, streetable is the main goal, but power also a big concern.
3.) Will my stock LS1 be ok to spray like a 150 shot on top of these heads and cam? I am trying to decide if i am man enough to use a wet shot, I may just back down and do 100 dry for safety considering i will have so much invested.
4.) Since im an auto, will be stalled before this, with heads/cam my rear should be fine correct? I will prolly be ricking it if i spray? But may get lucky?

I am approx my budget at $1,500 for heads, $400 for cam, $1,000 for nitrous set up installed. Than i got quoted about $1,500 for the Head/ Cam install + dyno and tune by Speed Inc so of course it will be good and professional. So total for this is about $4,500 all done and ill be putting down around 500-600 RWHP depending on nitrous shot and H/C specs. I can hold off on the nitrous and get the H/C first to save money so i can get it ASAP.

Now my other route was saving up for the D1SC. I figure if i order the parts it will rn me about $5,000 for the 8 rib kit with all the goodies. Now that will put me about 500-550 right there running about 8 psi to be friendly o nthe bottom end. Now after that i would ahve to build motor some ($2,000 estimating here) than get 12 bolt, $2,000, and maybe upgrade trans, $2,000. So than i could be putting down 750 hp but i would be over $10k for the set up. would def jsut get the blower first than save to build up my motor/ drivetrain.

So for streetability..... which do you think is the better route? I am leaning towards the H/C set up because i can be putting down around 450 RWHP just on all motor for around $3,500. Than for another $1,000 i can be done bout and be putting down around 550-600. The blower will def get me some way higher number in the end, but for now that amount of money is as much as i paid for the car! I would settle for the blower first. So we are looking at 500 RWHP from blower for $6k installed (estimate) Or 450 RWHP from H/C for $3500 installed, than 600 RWHP for $4,500. Clearly the H/C + spray is more power for cheaper so would you think thats the route for me, or is that horrible for the street?

Can someone please post up a nice H/C set up for me on budget for streetability and what type of spray you think would be best for that? I now realized i bacially jsut talked myself out of the blower but its still hanging in there as an option. This has also been a long day and i now notice i jsut restated everything about 3 times over making this a book .Sorry. Please help me out. Thanks!

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

you sound like me a couple of years ago with my mustang. i went with the blower at 17 years old. if i could do it over again, i would definately not. i am going to tell you this and i understand that you understand it, TO AN EXTENT, however those $$$ figures will most likely expand to much larger than what you have stated. ask ANYONE. with that being said start very small and work your way up. i guarantee that it will be more fun. shoot for the sky, have fun, BUT, be smart. you dont seem to want a turbo, so first of all go ahead with a full exhaust system. i will post a vote for you to go full exhaust for now and then decide where to go. but you will most definately enjoy heads cam more imo after going through what you went through FI is EXTREMELY expensive more than you can imagine without going through it yourself.

louie

here is an example. you state that you have 1500 for heads and 400 for cam and 1000 for nitrous + install.

now if you get heads you will have to consider this:
gaskets
oil
new bolts
lifters(you may want to change these while you are there)
and that could add up to a couple hundred dollars right there.

your cam will also make you cry once you get to look into it. a 400 dollar cam swap would sure be nice though.

but you will need pushrods-100 bux.
oil
coolant
springs
new gaskets for the front end
oil pump while you are there especially on a '99

etc. it will be 4 digits before you realize it.

nitrous i can see your requirements being suffecient as long as you buy used.

but then you have to include a new fuel pump in the mix, along with new injectros if you plan on getting heads/cam.

exhaust will run you about $500-$1000 if you install yourself.
ask anyone here this hobby is not cheap and looks much better on paper, until that paper is all the reciepts you accumulate and it ends up being 2x's the original "estimate"

c0ncEpT

iTrader: (4)

I think its a good idea.... and you can awalys add FI later if just H/C isent enought !

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok, thanks louie. I understand where your heading. Ive been searching here for a while now. I actually already have Borla but am finish up some bolt ons befor ei do the H/C spray Def. Actually prolly round first of the year ill have my pacesetter LT's, fuddle 3600 stall, shift kit and cooler all installed. Trust me, full exhaust, prolly intake and tranny will be done first. I am jsut trying to get some info on what heads/cam i should look into and hopefully get down the road. I may get to go Heads Cam by next summer. Ill hopefully have my bolt ons like i said by the start of the year, car will be garaged over winter and i can hopefully get it paid off by start of summer so i can save all usmmer for the Heads/Cam. Thanks for your info on the FI, i am sort of ruling it out now, that first hand info is really good. So hopefully i can gather some more info on H/C spray for now. I am actually very knowledgable for a 16 on LS1s as ive been searching here for close to a year now non stop researching and no quite a bit cept for some details on certain things such as heads/cam which i am learning now, lo. Thanks. Man when i try to keep it sort, i always end up writing a book. Maybe i should become an author....haha yeh right

co.6z28

iTrader: (1)

damn im 20 and dont got that type of coin. what are your parents Millionaires?

electricz28

sounds like we need a job at the country club and need to move back home

co.6z28

iTrader: (1)

i hear ya brother

JustAnIlluzion

iTrader: (60)

these motors can be very powerful with a matched H/C setup and other bolt ons. Sure FI sounds cooler and all, but u can be really fast and keep it simple. FI will just add more weight and more parts that will break or need to be maintained. if u go FI, ur gonna have to eventually upgrade the rearend and trans (if auto). however its up to you, whatever floats your boat.

Casperws6

that would be the same case if he goes heads/cam + spray. more power, more upgrades needed, no matter if he goes FI or N/A

markp03

iTrader: (4)

just to let you know a cam swap alone will cost you 800 + for the cam, pushrods, springs and such. all the mods in my sig minus the nitrous cost me about $3500 and that was installing it myself!!!

cam swap - 800
exhaust - 700
converter - 250 ( i got a deal)
gears - 250 ( for carrier and gears)
ls6 intake - 300
slp lid - 100
dyno tune and injectors - 900

and besides the dyno tune every mod i did was on the CHEAP side ( i bought alot of stuff used.)

i am putting down around 370 at the wheels now and around 470 with nitrous, but this winter i will be eather doing A. building the bottom end so i can spray more or B. getting my heads P&P for some more power =)

as you can see it adds up! i never expected to spend this much on my car and i have only had it for about 9 months! basicly my words of wisdom would be to do your research and do it right the first time

and remember you can only pick 2!! FAST, CHEAP, RELIABLE

JustAnIlluzion

iTrader: (60)

ya but FI will prolly make more power then H/C, so he will break stuff sooner.

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

well then you seem to be on the right track. as far as what parts to get i will say this.

if you get a small "streetable cam" are you going to lust for more power soon thereafter, i'll bet that you do so consider that. also with heads you can spend 1500 on a set of prted ones, however how will you feel if you see a combe exactly like your get you by 20-30 hp(possibly) and faster in the 1/4 mile only because he waited 3 weeks longer to get his heads and got the afrs. do your research and know what you want/can live with. from there make an educated desicion. once again i speak from experience with my mustang. i went through 2 different blowers on that car within 7 months and i was 17 at the time. ohh yeah it was a 4.6 so it wasnt cheap either.

Mud

Call some of the sponsors like Thunder Racing,Texas Speed or SDPC. They can give great advice on what you need to do. Most have cam or cam kits w/wo heads which allow you to choose the grind and heads you like. For a streetable car you are talking about some big upgrades. I think intake-headers-stall-cam-heads, in that order or close to it. I personally deal with Thunder Racing for most mods and have no complaints with product and great service. There are also other great vendors that offer the same so it's your personal choice.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hey. Yea, living at home is easy as i dont have to pay for food, apartment/house bill, etc. etc. and yes. the country club is a well paying job. Go check out your local club and see if there hiring, lol. Speaking of which this is our big week with invite so i will be bring in a lot of dough. I am pumped. Can you guys try and answer these few questions...

1.) Should i go with a set of ported heads or should i jsut wait and save for the AFR 205's. Are they worth the extra time and money?
2.) I am looking at cams, Should i go F13 or F14. I dont want to regret going too small but i dont want streetable problems either.
3.) Largest streetable Head and Cam combo..... pick one for me?
4.) Will my stock LS1 hold up to a Head Cam combo plus 150 shot of spray? I no i may get lucky with my rear end but after i spray i may have to get the 12 bolt. How bout the engine?

Thanks

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Oh, i am prolly buying my stall directly from Fuddle, and maybe get a used LS6 intake/TB on here, but other than that, i am buying all my stuff from Speed Inc and having them install it all.

XtrmLS1spd

iTrader: (6)

1.) Should i go with a set of ported heads or should i jsut wait and save for the AFR 205's. Are they worth the extra time and money?

Man, it really all depends if you want to spend the extra $$$ or not. Is an extra thousand for a set of heads worth another 15hp (just guestimating here) to you? If so, then don't hesitate to save your money for a set of AFR's. To me, I was, and still am, on a budget, so I went with something else (see below for more info). You can get a great set of heads for your proposed limit of $1500. I would recommend getting LS6 style heads and running a 59cc. This will bump up the compression, giving you a little more power than what you would initially have had. But whatever you do, make sure whatever heads you buy, that they are hand finished.

2.) I am looking at cams, Should i go F13 or F14. I dont want to regret going too small but i dont want streetable problems either.

Between those two, I have seen excellent results from many people on this board that run the F13. Do a search and you will find abundent information on cams. (see below for more info about cam selection)

3.) Largest streetable Head and Cam combo..... pick one for me?

The best set of AFR's money could buy (hehe), and a T-Rex cam from Thunder Racing/G5X-4 from LGM.

4.) Will my stock LS1 hold up to a Head Cam combo plus 150 shot of spray? I no i may get lucky with my rear end but after i spray i may have to get the 12 bolt. How bout the engine?

As long as you stay at a 150 shot, your motor will have no problems holding it with a h/c setup. The stock bottom end is built enough to take it. It's safe. Now, a 200 shot is pushing it, and I wouldn't recommend doing anything over 150.

More information...

It all depends on what you call streetable. What is streetable for me, may not be for you, so you may want to tell us exactly how much you can put up with. For me, I could drive/handle just about anyhting out on the street, because I can put up with it. Also, making it streetable is also in your tune.

I am running FFHP LS6 style heads along with the G5X-2 cam and that is very streetable to me. It does the occasional bucking or surging, but that its because I am running 3.42's. If I ran 4.10's, it would eliminate any problems. I put down 430 RWHP on a dynojet with that. I highly recommend the G5X-2. But, if you are looking for max power, you may want to think about the T-Rex cam from Thunder Racing or the G5X-4 from LGM.

Concerning a stall, I recommend that you should go no lower than a 3500. For me, I would get a 3800 stall. After reading back up, I see that you have already talked about going with a bigger stall (3600), so you should be fine. There is just no way around that when you are talking about running a h/c setup with a 150 shot. Also, the shift kit and tranny cooler you spoke about are musts.

I hope this helps you out some.

XtrmLS1spd

iTrader: (6)

You are definately going to be wanting to get a LS6 intake. If you do not, your just kicking yourself in the ***, because you are restricting your setup. The LS1 intake, isn't worth 2 cents. The LS6 intake is a MUST!

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok thanks a bunch. Thats jsut the post i was looking for. So you think a set of ported LS6 heads hand finished would be for me? They'd giuve me about jsut as much power as the AFRs but more for a person on a budget? I am planning on getting F13 or F14 cam so what type of numbers should i look to get in a set of ported ls6 heads to match that cam?I am now setting closer in o nthe F13. I am unsure if i should settle for some ported heads or go with the AFR 205's. What do you guys think?

Streetable for me is anything that drives good without constant problems. I really dont want to have any problems at all but more pedal is fine, louder of course is fine. I jsut dont want to be stalling at every light or in traffic or have conctant problems and be i nthe shop 24/7. Thats why im settling on the F13 as it isnt too large but enough to be worth it. I was hoping for around 450 RWHP with heads cam, full exhaust, ls6 intake, stall, etc.

For the F13, should i go with the 112 or 114?

Once this is done, what type of spray would you suggest i go with? Thanks

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok heres the skinny.....
1.) Patriot LS6 5.7 Stage 3 (2.08/1.60/64cc) - $1,600
2.) Patriot LS6 5.7 Stage 3 (2.08/1.60/68cc) - $1,600
3.) AFR Mongoose 205cc FULLY CNC 66cc Chambers COMPLETE - $2,200
4.) AFR Mongoose 205cc FULLY CNC 76cc Chambers COMPLETE - $2,200

$600 difference. Which ones? Think the AFRs are $600 better? Istallation will be $1,200 for the heads and cam together.

XtrmLS1spd

iTrader: (6)

If you went with the Patriot heads, be sure to get them from a sponser, such as FFHP. As stated, you will want them hand finished so that you can get the most out of them. FFHP will do just that. Also, the Patriot LS6 heads are not true LS6 castings. They are a 6.0L head that has the chambers welded up to "act" as an LS6 head (no big deal). If you go this route, go with the 59cc.

As you can see, I am running FFHP heads. But, I was on a budget. If you have the extra $600 to spend on a set of heads, then DO NOT hesitate to go with the AFR's. From the two selections of AFR heads, I would go with #3 for the simple fact of the 66cc. That's more compression for you, which will equal a bit more power.

As far as the F13 goes, I would go with the 112. It will drive just fine, without problems, and it will give it a more "mean" sound than the 114 would. It sounds to me that you are willing to put up with about anything out on the street, so why not go bigger? I understand your point and that you have decided on the F13, but the T-Rex will drive almost just as well and you will see more power out of it. It's all your call though, of course.

Reading through again, I would go with a wet shot. A wet shot is safer than a dry shot is, because it mixes gas in with the spray. As far as a kit goes, I would look heavily into a TNT setup. Their kits state true RWHP numbers, maybe getting a bit more from it, as I have seen/heard about.

Being an automatic, the chances are very slim for you to hit the 450 RWHP mark, even with the AFR heads. You will be losing some power through your drivetrain. But like I said, the T-Rex will put you closer than the F13 would, and drive just fine as long as you get a good tune.