elderon

Hey all. I just had my mechanic friend install my cam and valvetrain upgrades. Well everything went well, however my temp gauge is no longer registering anything. My SES light is on and has thrown a code regarding a sensor.

My question is how do I know which sensor disconnected/bad? I know there is one in the pump and one on the drivers side head. I'm REALLY hoping its just the one on top of the engine.

The car was running great with my new setup once I put my tune on it, but once the SES light came on the car is idling up and down and has trouble starting now. The fans do still come on, but they seem to be running more often then they did before.

Any insight / help would be appreciated!

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Coolant temp sensor is in the driver side head by the #1 cylinder. Make sure it's plugged in/working and that the connector/wiring didn't get broken during the recent cam/valvetrain install.

Good luck,
Bad30th

elderon

Thanks for the response. Does that sensor do more than just give a reading to the gauge? I am getting conflicting info from some other sources. Some say that is just for the gauge in the dash, others say the computer does calibrations based off that sensor. Do you know by any chance?

gwj

The computer does use the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor for some things. Fan turn on/off comes readily to mind.
It's the sensor right close to the #1 plug. (I always unplug it when doing a plug change).

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

The sensor feeds the coolant temp to the ECM via a voltage reading.

The ECM uses the known coolant temperature in many engine calculations, as well as to feed the coolant temp gauge in the cluster.

Incorrect values from the sensor will cause fueling issues, rough idle, stumbling/stalling. (The computer thinks it's -98 degrees outside !).

Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)

elderon

Ok cool. This MUST be it then. Thank you so much guys! Not to sound retarded, but is the #1 cylinder towards the front of the car or towards the firewall end?

2001NBMZ28

Yepper, fortunately they're fairly cheap - about $25 (list) if you need to replace it. 15326388

2001NBMZ28

Driver's side, closest to the radiator.

elderon

Excellent. Thanks for the part #. I may need it.

I'll update when I get home from work about it.

On another note. Having a big cam in the LS1 Freaking ROCKS!!! I've never heard anything so sweet as my baby spinning 6500 rpms though headers, no cats, and a Loudmouth exhaust! Its been confirmed that i can be heard at WOT at least 1.5 miles away through a rural area!

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Bad30th

elderon

Ok guys I think I found it. Something isn't right though. The only cable i could find near it is in the pic as well. There are 2 small metal prongs sticking out. Did it get broken off?

2001NBMZ28

You found it. Looked at mine real quick (raining like crazy here) and there should be a black plastic housing coming off the brass sensor on the head for the sensor wires to connect too - so unplugging mine can't see any prongs sticking out - looks like yours was busted.

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Yep, that's what they look like when the plastic housing breaks off the sensor, you can see the two prongs sticking out. (Been there done that, heh). In a pinch the connector will actually connect to the two prongs, but it won't stay like that for long since it doesn't have anything holding it there but the pressure of the connector against the prongs.

A new sensor should get you all fixed up as long as the wiring harness wasn't busted too.

Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)

elderon

Well I picked up the replacement part this morning on the way to work. I'll have it on this evening and hopefully will be all set.

I actually tried to connect it to the prongs sticking out yesterday - but i couldnt get it to register any reading. Perhaps the damage was more than the plastic connector. Fortunately the connector in the wiring is undamaged.

Thanks for the all the help everyone. I REALLLYYYY appreciate it!