TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

Hands down one of the best mods I've done so far. However, I think it may be easier to just pull the motor to install these things.

If anyone else is thinking about installing with the motor in the car, here's a few pointers:

1) Patience
2) Patience
3) grind about 1/16" off the metal tabs protruding from the new poly mount
4) A vice makes short work of pressing the new mounts into the lower half of the clam shell
5) Patience
6) Doing this incar, I didn't need to remove my headers, probably would have helped, but I did need to remove the starter, A/C & A/C bracket, and altenator.
7) Patience
8) Patience
9) A set of pry bars and wood blocks help position the motor while you line up the long mount bolts
7) Patience
8) Patence
9) last but not least, Patience

slpss9723

what did they do for you?? just wondering because i did a poly tranny mount and it helped reduce my y-pipe banging considerably, but didn't resolve it and i'm wondering if they would be worth the money and PITA to fix the problem for good.

Mr. Luos

iTrader: (9)

Ordered mine today.

Of course, my install will be much easier. Motor is on a stand.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

I'm jealous. I wish I would have done it while my motor was out

Keeps the motor from trying to jump out of the bay. Made the car much more streetable IMO.

Harley-Davidson88

iTrader: (71)

3)If you install the mount correctly in the clam shell...then there is no need to do any grinding on anything.

4)A vice is not necessaryto close the clam shell...I coated both inner surfaces with plenty of grease to prevent any possible sqeaks in the future. They just slid together. The bolts pulled in the rest of the slack.

9)I don't see why the engine was misaligned in the first place. Did you do one side at a time? You should be able to go straight up and straight back down and still be aligned.

If you start all of the engine block bolts first (leave them loose), then push the long bolt through (leave the nut off or on loosely), the K-member bolts should still line up. They should be installed last anyway...that is why they are tapered at the end have the spacer to center them. They will be the easiest to get started once all the others are loosely in place.

I thought these were a pretty easy install, I never would have even considered removing my headers just for this (maybe the QTP's leave plenty of clearance :dunno: ). The only thing I found to be slightly annoying about the whole procedure was the jack holding up the engine got in the way. Other than that it wasn't bad. I agree that it was a VERY worthwhile mod.

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

They are so worth the while to put in, and the car shakes inside makes it more badass

98z28chevy

How much do polly mounts cost? i might pick up a set for my new motor. I heard Autozone sells polly mounts for Fbodys not sure have to give them a call.

slpss9723

ok but would they stop the y-pipe from banging??

5w20

iTrader: (21)

|Custom catted Y w/RandomTech Cats and 4" Flowmaster Merge Collector|

That might be your problem.

OldeSkool

by removing the headers, I didnt have to remove anything else. (No removal of a/c or alternator etc... just headers) Also, the job took me maybe an hour. I dont notice shaking inside the car or vibrations or anything like that, but i have a stock motor. I totally agree they are worthwhile. I just left mine in the box til i had the headers out and made things a snap.

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

they keep the engine from moving as much when u give it gas

when you step on the gas the driver side of the engine lifts up and the exhaust comes up with it and can sometimes hit the floorboard

slpss9723

actually it's a lot better than it was now that i got rid of POS QTP y-pipe but unfortunately every now and then it still hits the floorboard..... so hopefully with the poly mounts, it might just have the lil bit more stiffness it needs to stop hitting completely.......i guess we'll see when i get around to installing them......

OldeSkool

Yeah, your car would have to hook real hard and have a motor with some serious torque OR have little to no clearance between that y-pipe and floor board for it to bang with poly motor mounts

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I had to have a friend with a prybar to get the passenger side motor mount bolt in. Nothing major but it would have been pretty difficult to have done by myself. The motor doesn't move now. I love it...

777

iTrader: (21)

Is there a write-up on installing them somewhere?

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

I think I've seen one in the handling section. FWIW - the mounts come with instructions. pretty cut and dry.

I believe the issuse I had with mine stemed from how i pressed the mount into the clam shell.

Also, the way I installed the cross mount bolt, the A/C and Altenator had to be removed. I put them in like this so *IF* they did come loose, I wouldn't loose the bolt. With the headers out, I wouldn't have needed to remove the started. But, it's alot easier to pull the starter than the headers.

During the whole process i was thinking, "never again" - until I witnessed the results. I highly recommend them.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

did for me, my friends ss has about 1.5 inches of clearance more than mine does between the body, his hits mine wont

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

I did one side. It cut down the shaking at idle w/o adding much harshness. If you have an aftermarket lumpy cam, it is well worth it.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

yeah with my cam the motor wont shake a bit

sethhatfield

Strap the motor down with some motorcycle tie-downs!

It looks ghetto but works well. I ran mine from the front of the motor under the k-member to the left mount. You have to tighten the crap out of it several times though. We used to chain down the Grand National motors.