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Will my stock springs handle my cam?

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Old 08-15-2005, 11:27 AM
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Default Will my stock springs handle my cam?

I was installing my cam last night and sliced my finger pretty bad sliding the cam into the block. I have not started my spring swap yet and I'm wondering if I can run my stock springs for a couple weeks until I heal up. My cam is 224/224 duration and .581 lift. Any input would be nice thanks.
Old 08-15-2005, 11:28 AM
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That would be a BIG no-no. Stock springs can barely handle the stock cam. You definatly need some new springs. Get some 918's.
Old 08-15-2005, 11:41 AM
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what would happen if he did use the stock valve springs? as long as he kept the rpm's down wouldn't they be ok?
Old 08-15-2005, 11:46 AM
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I have a set of 918's I just can't install them with stitches in my hand. I need to know if I can limp the car along for a couple weeks. Also I tried to get the attachment in the head through the spark plug holes but it won't clear my headers. What's the easiest way to hold my valves up other than the air hose attachment?
Old 08-15-2005, 11:47 AM
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They would break. DON'T DO IT. You will have serious engine damage.
Old 08-15-2005, 11:49 AM
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I wouldnt use the stock springs on that cam at all, even if it were just to limp along. As for holding up the valves, use the TDC method from ls1howto.
Old 08-15-2005, 12:32 PM
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after you install the cam with those stock springs, I GUARANTEE you would get the urge to nail the throttle just once out of curiousity of the power gain. BOOM! there goeds your motor. get the 918's and sleep soundly
Old 08-15-2005, 12:34 PM
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Doesn't matter if you nail it or not. They will break. I wouldn't risk it. BTW use the TDC method as GuitsBoy suggested. Bring the piston that you are working on up to TDC and it will hold the vavle for you. The valve will just rest on the piston. Then once you are done with that turn the motor over till the next one is at TDC and repeat.
Old 08-15-2005, 01:17 PM
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DO NOT DO IT.

If you try even "limping around" you will very likely screw up your motor and have nobody/nothing to blame besides your own stupidity/ignorance/hardheadedness.

Last edited by blkZ28spt; 08-15-2005 at 01:47 PM.
Old 08-15-2005, 01:44 PM
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How do you say it "Coil bind" = broken parts!
Old 08-15-2005, 02:47 PM
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Lift happens regardless of RPM.

DON'T DO IT!
Old 08-15-2005, 02:49 PM
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Ok problem solved I got one of my buddies to come down and help me since I am one handed for now. Thanks for the input everyone
Old 08-15-2005, 03:03 PM
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Glad to hear that. No need to risk some damage.
Old 08-15-2005, 05:34 PM
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Change your springs, I am suffering from a serious case of not doing that, caused major valvetrain damage, such as busted rocker arms and bent valves. Do the swap.
Old 08-17-2005, 09:37 AM
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Thank you thank you thank you to everyone that didn't let me half *** my cam install. Finished everything up last night. Only took about 2 hours with the Larry Tool valve spring compressor (worked like a champ). Now the T/A is back on the road and running strong. Little sewing machine noise but I hear that is to be expected. Only thing now is it has a hard time idling first thing in the morning when it's cold is that normal? Thanks again!
Old 08-17-2005, 09:49 AM
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Yeah, just get a tune.
Old 08-17-2005, 10:37 AM
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That's what I figured. I can smell it burning rich as well so I guess a tune is next on the list. Too bad no one in good old Utah knows their head from their *** unless it's a diesel truck. Oh well good excuse to run to Vegas...
Old 08-17-2005, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by josh99ta
Lift happens regardless of RPM.

DON'T DO IT!
So many people dont take that into consideration.

if stock springs handle .500 lift, and the new cam is .600
you're a screwed duck. Doesnt matter if you are reving the **** out of the motor, or at idle, the cam still makes its rotation, therefore creating lift..




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