danf1000

iTrader: (2)

unfortunately this mod has fallen into the internet black hole....

has anyone done this, and if so, how?? i have a 2001 that runs around 210 and would like to cool it down if possible!

--dan

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

i found the link, but it doesnt work. Patman did the mod and so did a few others. i did a search for "thermostat mod" and went to the 8th or 9th page.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

you need to change your fan settings if you want the Tstat mod to be effective.

danf1000

iTrader: (2)

but how do you do it?????

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

shimming the stat or re-programming the fans?

I have no idea how to shim the stat.

Reprogramming the fans will require a software such as EFILive/Flashscan (www.efilive.com)

SS01RED

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, get it reprogrammed for the fans, and get a 160 deg. stat. The 98's temperature gauges are the only ones that work good. My 01 gauge still reads nearly 200, after reprogramming and a stat, but they say it's normal. Installuniversity.com has some info on it.

felton316

http://teamzr1.com/modstat.html Mine has worked for years. I used the end of a stainless steel machine screw ground down to .109" It now opens as if it was a 170* thermostat.

danf1000

iTrader: (2)

hey, thanks alot!!

i'll get to it asap!

for you guys that used computer tuning to lower fans, i have a proposal for you....
instead of reprogramming, simply allow more airflow under the hood!!

felton316

I have my fans reprogrammed and I have converted to a front breather set up. You will need the reprogramming even with add airflow, because in stop and go traffic or very slow speed, you will get little airflow through the radiator. That's where the fans come into play.

rich Z

Go to www.ls1net.com for this mod.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Not to be a smartass, but a 160 degree T-stat only runs $50. Replacing a LS1 engine if you improperly shim the stock T-stat and overheat the engine is a good $6K+ Personally.....I'd just spend the $50 and get the aftermarket thermostat.

That said, an aftermarket T-stat is WORTHLESS WITHOUT REPROGRAMMING THE ELECTRIC COOLING FANS. The fans need to be reprogrammed to come on around 175 degrees and go off at 190-195. A Predator programmer, LS1 edit, or HP Tuners will all do the trick. When I reprogrammed my fans with a T-stat I picked up a consistent .2sec in the 1/4 mile. Cool = Good

Also, what year's your Camaro. Unless it's a 98 or older, your water temp gauge is nothing more than a glorified idiot light. It will show 210 degrees when the engine is really between 170-235 degrees. I added an AutoMeter H2O gauge last year and was horrified to see that the REAL temp of my engine was 225 when cruising and over 230 in stop and go traffic!! With the Predator program to recalibrate the on/off temp of the fans, I run a constant 180 in Hawaii heat. This is with LT's, a TR cam, and other mods...... all in stop and go traffic.

gwj

I've been running a modded thermostat for 3 years. I also used a piece of machine screw. Changed fan turn on temps w/ HPP3.

gwj

Also, don't be outside when you take that sucker apart. If you slip, parts will fly everywhere.

01Z28M6

I get the idea with the thermostat modification but need to know for sure what thickness to make the spacer (mod calls it a shim). Seems to me the spacer needs to be .125 - .175 to get to the 160 degree form if a .101 thick spacer lowers a 194 degree stat to 180. Will this just be a matter of trial and error or does someone here have a proven thickness? In other words, I don't want to experiment around if someone else has already proven it out.

Thanks