Tri5Nerd

iTrader: (3)

My Torquer V2 package and heads with big valvles are on the way. Shipped yesterday. The engine and tranny is out of the car so I'll have complete access to everything, should I replace the GM rod bolts with ARP while I'm doing the Head/Cam swap? and replace the head bolts with ARP Studs or bolts?
I also will install these parts at the same time on a 2001 LS1/A4 with 47K miles:
Double roller timing chain, LS6 Oil pump, Front seal, Ported TB and UD pulley.
Did I miss anything?

Krab

iTrader: (28)

If it were me doing this and the engine were on a stand, I'd replace the rod bolts and would also use head studs. The studs are re-usable and you don't have to worry about cleaning out the bolt holes next time you take off the heads.

SuperZ

iTrader: (2)

unless you want to pull the motor out everytime you take a head off dont use studs.ARP head bolts will do just fine and are also reusable.You are not not a turbo or supercharger so you dont need studs.And about the rod bolts you could swap them out it might be hard if your planning on doing it with the bootem end still assembled.When i had my stock motor with a cam and nitrous I had stock rod bolts and it made 530rwhp and 630tq on a motor with 102k miles on it and I shifted at 6700 rpms.So I would say leave em but I guess rather be safe than sorry!

Tri5Nerd

iTrader: (3)

SuperZ,

The engine will be on the stand, thus it would not be too much trouble to remove the pan and tray to get to the rods. So leave them (Stock bolts) or change them? I just don't want to take the chance of spinning a bearing while revving to ~6800 RPM, that's where I think I'll be shifting after putting the engine back in.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

YES.
I refuse to do H/C packages these days w/o changing rod bolts unless the cam has a lot of advance ground in and the car never sees more then 6500 RPM's. I have had 2 customers this year blow up their motor's because of rod bolts.
1 98 and 1 2002 with the updated version.
To me it is well worth the 89 dollars in bolts, 33 dollars in a new oil pan gasket and 30 minutes for install.
Just make sure you follow the directions. You acturally have to tighten the bolts 3 times each.
IMO it is worth the money for the piece of mind you get with the rod bolts.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

I was under the impression that you could take the head off the block with studs installed, even with the engine still in the car.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

If the engine is on a stand definitely change the rod bolts. I would not hesitate to do it on a stand. I would also recommend a stretch gauge for the best accuracy when tightening (a rod bolt let go pretty well ruins an entire engine).

pewter 01 SS

iTrader: (5)

you should do it right the first time and change the bolts.. gm bolts are not the cheap and if you change your heads or lifters later on you will have to change the bolts againg. like I said do it right the first time get ARP bolts and your ready to go..

Tri5Nerd

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys.
I'll order the ARP rod bolts and a pan gasket, is there anything else I should change or replace while I will be working on the bottom end of the engine?

pewter 01 SS

iTrader: (5)

how about cosmetic head gaskets?? that would be good or the high performance felpro head gasket... the numver gasket for mine in 1041 but thats because i have a 408ci..

Tri5Nerd

iTrader: (3)

I'm getting graphite gaskets with my H/C package.
What numbers do you think this combo with all the supporting mod, will put down with Cold Air, Ported TB, LS6 Pump, Mac/TD/Magnaflow, no cats, TCI 3500, 9" with 3.70 gears?

pewter 01 SS

iTrader: (5)

actually to tell you the truth dont know how much, i have a stick car and from what i know auto dyno way less specially after you put tci and the rearend it will be way lower.. also you shouldnt worry about the dyno #'s you should worry more about how powerfull the car is going to feel of the line. Hopefully you did your homework and choose everything for your set up right on the first time because many people start changing their set up and only cost more money.. what type of heads and cam did you get.. a have a friend with forged 346 and messed up the cam because of a lifter and now needs to get another cam and i think hes putting in a torque converter were trying to see what would be best.. hopefully depending on the cam and heads that you got should be around 420rwhp right?? i dunno..

Tri5Nerd

iTrader: (3)

I got the TSP Torquer v2 and the heads are 5.7L CNC ported with 2.04 and 1.57 valves with PRC dual springs, it should just like the PRC stage 1.5 5.3L heads but with less compression (no milling).
I think I have all the right parts to make this run pretty good off the line.
I went for the 9" rearend because of all the bad stories I hear about the 12 bolt.
Hopefully I'll be in the 400RWHP range with this setup.

pewter 01 SS

iTrader: (5)

good luck with that man... hopefully you'll be around there.

Byter

iTrader: (1)

Even with C5's? It is not easy getting that oil pan off!