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Cam Swap - Loctite Use

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Old 08-30-2005, 11:32 AM
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Default Cam Swap - Loctite Use

I have read LS1howto and Wil Hanzel's boot and the service manual for my 02 Vette. The service manual doesn't mention using Loctite. LS1howto uses it, but is not real specific and Wil Hanzel's book uses it in some places, inconsistently and when it is mentioned he uses the red stuff.

What is everyone using for loctite and on what fasteners. I am a bit bothered by Wil Hanzel's recommendation of using red loctite on the front cover bolts and not mention on the cam gear. I am thinking of using Loctite 242 (medium strength blue) on the entire assembly, but want to see what everyone else is using and why.
Old 08-30-2005, 11:35 AM
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Use 242 on the cam gear only, dont bother with the front cover bolts as it is a PITA if you have to remove it again... BTW: I am a Loctite Engineer.

271/277 (red) is designed for bolts that never need to be loosened.
Old 08-30-2005, 11:37 AM
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i wouldnt use permanent stuff on anything..ive been using medium strength...and torqueing with a torque wrench..havent had a problem.


locktite is badass.
Old 08-30-2005, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by c5blkvette
BTW: I am a Loctite Engineer.

really ?
Old 08-30-2005, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by c5blkvette
Use 242 on the cam gear only, dont bother with the front cover bolts as it is a PITA if you have to remove it again... BTW: I am a Loctite Engineer.

271/277 (red) is designed for bolts that never need to be loosened.
How about the cam plate? Same, 242?

Also, since you work for Loctite, one of your tech people some time back told me how to read the date on the tube, can you provide that information? I seem to remember that a lot of stuff on the shelves was several years old locally.
Old 08-30-2005, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Ping King
i wouldnt use permanent stuff on anything..ive been using medium strength...and torqueing with a torque wrench..havent had a problem.


locktite is badass.
Same here....
Old 08-30-2005, 02:07 PM
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Didnt use any locktite. Didnt even bother to torque down the cam bolts. Just tightend them down real snug.
Old 08-30-2005, 02:20 PM
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Great stuff, would not build a motor without it. I use Loctite Blue on Cam bolts, oil pump bolts, and pickup tube bolts. The trick is to not use too much. I use red on the oil pump bypass plug, or only on bolts bigger than 6mm, anything smaller it will permanently bond.
Old 08-30-2005, 02:28 PM
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I use blue locktight on the following.

1. Cam retainer
2. rocker arm bolts
3. oil pump bolts
4. cam gear sprockets
5. Crankshaft bolt

On EVERYTHING else, including spark plugs, I use gray anti-seize compound which is very good for bolts that grip into aluminium.... Obviously, bolts and such that grip alumuium are tricky - too tight and you strip threads.... too loose and the bolt wiggles loose ...

Use a tork wrench!
Old 08-30-2005, 02:58 PM
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BTW loctite is an anti-galling anti-seize agent as well. So if the bolt calls for lubrication prior to tightening loctite qualifies. Great stuff.
Old 08-30-2005, 03:05 PM
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real men use red locktitie
Old 08-30-2005, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by yak
real men use red locktitie
yea because when u need to losen the bolts it makes for a great bicep exercise
Old 08-30-2005, 11:21 PM
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OOHH ****, I used red loctite on the cam plate and frt cover, I think. oohhh well at least I don't have to worry about it coming off.LOL.
Old 08-31-2005, 06:19 AM
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Hey loctite engineer! Why did my three cam bolts back themselves out and allow my cam to walk as well if I used Blue loctite on them and torqued them to SPEC?
Old 08-31-2005, 07:30 AM
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I use red loctite on the 3 cam bolts and the crank bolt. Blue on the cam plate and oilpump. I don't use loctite on the covers.

Kurt
Old 09-01-2005, 06:33 AM
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My engine builder used 271 on the rocker arm bolts for the Crane kit. Due to some issues, we have to replace with stock rockers, and to remove the crane studs we have to heat them to 300 degrees to get them out. FWIW.
Old 09-01-2005, 08:51 AM
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That's a good point. Heat frees up the red loctite. Heat it with a torch and give the bolt head a sharp rap with a hammer. It should come right out.
Old 09-01-2005, 10:49 AM
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I almost NEVER use LocTite on ANYTHING.......I feel it better to torque the part correctly and/or install an all metal self locking nut........(though there is LocTite helping to hold and seal the Darton Wet Sleeves in my block so.....)

I'm not knocking LocTite (the stuff works wonders) but a lot of people seem to use it as the "cure all".........it's a PITA to get apart and I have had the stuff turn loose (the LocTite cracks over time)...........


in closing....I will quote what an OLD man I knew (he was the head machinist/shop Forman in the Southern Pacific's LA rail yard/maintenance shop.........no long with us.... ) once said:

"One thing you can guarantee about using tape and glue.......the one time when you desperately need them to hold.......they will fail......"
Old 09-01-2005, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Viper
My engine builder used 271 on the rocker arm bolts for the Crane kit. Due to some issues, we have to replace with stock rockers, and to remove the crane studs we have to heat them to 300 degrees to get them out. FWIW.
Why are you removing the studs (issues)? Just curious as I am about to install them.
Old 09-01-2005, 02:22 PM
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Hey c5blkvette, since your a loctite engineer, maybe you could shed some light on this. When I did my cam swap originally, I used some old permatex red threadlock that had a leak. Within a week my cam bolts had loosened. Does threadlock go bad if theres a leak or if the tube is older? I figured air had seeped in through the leak and catalized the locking agent. I retightened the bolts using the red loctite gluestick and havnt had problems since.


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