2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Been reading alot about this CheaTR cam, but most of the people who have it have other mods (FAST intake, heads etc)
So my biggest question is
On a stock LS1 what kind of gains would I see?
Or would it be better to get the other mods first THEN go put the CheaTR in?
The fact that it makes good power without having headers is a HUGE plus (not a big fan of headers, and their attendant problems)
So what's the verdict on a stock 02 LS1 is it worth putting this cam in, or should I get more mods then go for the cam?

PREDATOR-Z

20>25rwhp if properly tuned.
Get ported TB, bellows, Fuel Pressure regulator at rails and the cam.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Jason 99TA picked up 35 rwhp cam only running stock exhaust manifolds, cats and Hooker catback.

A 2001 C5 with headers picked up 42 rwhp cam only.

Gains with few mods are very good with the CheaTR. Do a title search with the name CheaTR and you'll see.

Scoobie

iTrader: (8)

Id say if you are not planning on modding heavily the CheaTR is a good choice. Id say if you are planning on Modding heavily, the CheaTR is a good choice. lol

If you really wanted to keep it sleepr, do the SLP dual/dual, that cam, pulley, lid, tune tune tune and a converter or good gear and clutch for a manual..should be a fun car.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (12)

you will know there is a cam in the car however. A nd it'll shake a bit more then stock at idle. It isnt at "stealth" as i had hoped and as it intially seemed to be.

Dave

Scoobie

iTrader: (8)

I agree, even with my high flow cats on, you can tell its a cammed car. Its just not as blatent.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

The amount of stealth is directly proportional to your idle speed. I found that an 800 rpm idle gave a beat to the CheaTR cam, but an 850 rpm idle was really stock sounding.

If you were wanting lope, I'm sure a 650 rpm idle would sound pretty mean.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Well I don't mind a little lope, but some of the cams I've listened to are just too much (back when I was 18-20 they would've been fine)
Patrick, I did do a search, but the ones that were running this cam(at least in the threads I read) seemed to have more extensive mods ie TB, intake, and so on, so I wondered how this cam would be in a basically stock car (lid, catback) I don't mind doing the mods required to get a good result out of the cam, but since changing a cam is a little more involved, I just wondered if I could do the cam first, have a worthwhile result, then move on to the other mods as time and money(and wife) allowed, or if it would be better to do the other mods first and do the cam as the last thing
This cam appeals to me primarily for the drivability, (I and the wife like AC when it's 100+) this is my DD and I need it to be reliable, I'm willing to sacrifice some HP for reliability, and while an LS1 is one of the faster cars I've owned I'd like a little more

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

This is precisely the appeal of this cam ... it doesn't absolutely require headers, so you can do what you're suggesting and it will work. You may want to put on a UD pulley since you're going to be pulling it anyway, but other than that, you can do your mods one by one.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

That brings up another question, how ofte would I have to change springs? (I'd go with dual springs either Manley or Comp)
I usually put 13-15k per year on it

PREDATOR-Z

Once a year or every 12>15K miles you should remove the springs and measure their specs. If they are within tolerances you are good for another 10K if not change.
Think of this as spring maintenance, just like oil change.