Sams00vette

iTrader: (6)

Bottom end:
LS6 block - bored 3.905
Stock crank - knife edged, chamfered and balanced
Callies Rods 6.125
JE or Diamond -2cc forged pistons - moly skirts / thermal tops
Clevite Rod and Main bearings with moly coatings
ARP Main Studs

Top end:
ET Performance "LS1 castings" 225 cc - 58cc chambers - 11.6x:1
ARP Head Studs
Comp R Lifters
Chromoly Pushrods
Comp Cams 238/242 XER 112 + 2
Jesel 1.7 Rockers
Cometic .040 x 3.910 MLS gasket
Fast 90mm intake
90mm TB
#42 injectors
TNT 150 shot

Sam

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I think the 90/90 would be a little overkill. Sounds like a stout set-up. Major $$$ but major fun!

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Are you Joking?

LS1 Swapper

I'd go thinner on the headgasket, depending on what your pistons end up out of the hole. Especially if they are valve notched.

The fast 90/90 will really wake that setup up, make sure to get something other then fast's 90 TB though. 42lb injectors are fairly big as well, may want to go with some 36's instead. Not into NOS so I don't know if that setup needs the bigger injectors to work.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

The FAST set-up will be good, the injectors will be good also. The set-up should turn upwards of 450rwhp, so th einjectors would work out just right. You may no t need that much, but it will be close and it dosen't hurt to have a little room for improvement. The only thing I would look at is the 59 cc heads. They will be milled alot to get that dimension, so the valve reliefs need to be good and deep for the size cam your wanting. I would not go any thinner on the head gaskets simply because LS-1's tend to set-up out of the hole and going thinner will cause to tight of a quench area. If your pistons sit up anywhere from .005-.010" out of the hole, your quench will be in the .030 to .035 range, which is perfect. Overall it sounds like a nice set-up.

liftin'em on nittos

iTrader: (2)

the fast setup would be perfect for that setup. the only thing i see that i would change is this. since you're already going to spend the money for the jesel rocker arms, go ahead and get the shaft mounted ones and go solid roller. that big head should like the rpm with the stock cube motor. and i personally prefer the Nick Williams 90mm throttlebody to the Fast 90mm

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

The pistons sit .007 out of the hole and the heads are not milled to get 58cc.

racecar

That's very close to motor I have. Here are some things I learned the hard way. 1. Use the factory LS6 production main and rod bearing clearances. 2. Make triple sure that the O ring on the oil pump pickup is installed correct. 3. Enlarge the pushrod holes in the head, and add pushrod clearance down inside the head. I removed my heads after 500 miles to find that the pushrods were hitting inside the head. 4. Plan to use 50/50 race fuel and pump gas. Good luck. I see that is your first post, you will find that LS1tech is the most valuable tool you have. Welcome!!

black_knight

iTrader: (1)

Why an LS6 block and not an LS2? Are you running in a bore or cube-restricted class? If not, then no reason not to go for MORE CUBES.

liftin'em on nittos

iTrader: (2)

the LS2 block is how much $$$? the LS6 block he probably already has probably came in his car.

black_knight

iTrader: (1)

It costs about the same as the LS6 block. And it came with the 2000 vette? His callsign is "Sams00vette" so I assume it didn't come with the car...

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

The LS2 block does cost about the same but there are some costs associated with the wiring. Sam didn't want to rewire some of the sensors and IMO there isn't going to be much difference in final RWHP production, should be north of 465rwhp. I am building a very similar motor with a few tricks and should come in 510+rwhp. These two motors should represent some of the best parts that are available for the LS1 and if my old engine is any prediction of how much power they are going to make its gonna be insane...
Phil

black_knight

iTrader: (1)

Well, if rewiring is a deal breaker, then there you go.