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New slave and clutch but still won't disengage?

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Old 09-11-2005, 01:42 PM
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Default New slave and clutch but still won't disengage?

I bought my WS6 about 2 months ago. It drove and shifted just fine for the first month. Then all of a sudden one day I go for a drive and it won't go into any gear while the car is running. It went through the gears just fine while the engine was off. I noticed the clutch fluid was low so I figured there was a leak somewhere. I checked all around the master and could not feel any leeks so I assumed it was the slave. So I dropped the tranny and installed a new clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and slave yesterday (the rear main seal was also leeking so I replaced that also). I drove it around for about 3 hours and it it shifted perfect, no problems. This morning I went for a drive and guess what...I couldn't get it into any gear AGAIN! Exactly how it was before the new slave/clutch. What is goin on here?!? Am I gona have to drop some more cash on a new master too?

Thanks...
Old 09-11-2005, 02:02 PM
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The master could be toast. There have been like 7-8 people in the last week who have had thiis SAME EXACT problem.
Old 09-11-2005, 02:45 PM
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Yup same here, I about to pull the tranny, and try to find out what is wrong.
Old 09-11-2005, 04:27 PM
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Is the fluid low again. If so your master probably is shot. Bleeding to death internally.
Old 09-11-2005, 06:26 PM
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I would replace the master and do the drill mod. What kind of clutch did you replace with? OEM or after market upgrade? If you plan on doing after market clutch you must upgrade your master with the McLeod adjustable Master and drill mod. If not, you will most likely not be able to completely disengage your clutch.

This has happened to almost all of us if not done. Do a search on clutch not disengaging and you will see what I'm talking about!

If you do not have the 2002 throw-out you need to get that too. The one in our cars was subpar. GM put a service message out about it. I have it on my home computer but I’m deployed now and don’t have it. Someone on here should have it.

All are easy jobs and don’t cost too much. It’s worth while too. Better parts, no problems!!!!

Some help him out.

Good luck man
Old 09-11-2005, 06:40 PM
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I have the same problem but haven't noticed any fluid loss. Mine did this yesterday at the track, I was 2.5 hours from home, finally I got in it and tried to take off in fisrt gear and I felt something "clunk" and then all the sudden I could get my car in and out of any gear. What the Hell?
Old 09-11-2005, 09:39 PM
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I replaced it with a Z06 clutch. If the master was leaking, will I be able to feel brake fluid around the master (because I don't). TSP sells the Mcleod master for $309, is the OEM master alot cheaper, I can't find it any where?

I hope it's the master because I'm getting sick of trial-and-error!

Thanks
Old 09-12-2005, 01:26 AM
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add me to the list of people that are experiencing the same problem. trouble is I just replaced my old master with a new adjustable ram master, so that SHOULDNT be the source of my problems....

no fluid loss here either...going to adjust the thing out and bleed it again I guess and see what happens.
Old 09-12-2005, 07:51 AM
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For those who have the original master as suggested replace them, they are the source of many problems.
Also do the drill mod.
Then when bleeding a new hydraulic system, bench bleed the master. Then bleed it w/a mighty vac they get it bled right the first time.
Old 09-12-2005, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 69huggerZ
I replaced it with a Z06 clutch. If the master was leaking, will I be able to feel brake fluid around the master (because I don't). TSP sells the Mcleod master for $309, is the OEM master alot cheaper, I can't find it any where?

I hope it's the master because I'm getting sick of trial-and-error!

Thanks

69huggerZ

try these sites. I haven't heard of the Ram adjustable master cylinder but Ram is a replicable company. Has anyone heard of this part. Does anyone have it? Better price, but you know you get what you pay for. Everyone I know has the Mcleod.

good luck



http://www.fbodymotorsports.com/clutches

http://www.asscracing.com/online%20catalog.htm

http://www.midwestperformanceparts.c...04ccccd24020cc
Old 09-12-2005, 10:18 PM
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.::.
.:ttt:.
Old 09-13-2005, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 69huggerZ
.::.
.:ttt:.
Get a master cylinder, if you get it from the dealer it will come w/a new line. Or look at the sponsors sites better yet get a ram adjustable, it is a stocker made adjustable, that way you can optimize the pedal.
You have typical hydraulic problems, plain & simple.
Old 09-13-2005, 12:54 PM
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... but getting a McLeod may not be the end of your problems. There's more than one person (yeah, including me) that's having issues with that master. Can anyone chime in on the RAM adjustable?

Good luck; that's just a shitty feeling when you go through all that effort and have the problem recur.

Rich
Old 09-13-2005, 01:50 PM
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im having a sim problem with my car, pedal gets soft, wont go into gear, i was told to drain the system and try Dot 5 break fluid instead of the dot 3. was told it may or may not help. i was also told that dot 5 is not a goood choice for this. I wonder? anyone else try dot 5?
Old 09-13-2005, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by zerotosixzero
im having a sim problem with my car, pedal gets soft, wont go into gear, i was told to drain the system and try Dot 5 break fluid instead of the dot 3. was told it may or may not help. i was also told that dot 5 is not a goood choice for this. I wonder? anyone else try dot 5?

do NOT put DOT5 fluid in your clutch system.
Old 09-13-2005, 03:42 PM
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ok i wont
Old 09-13-2005, 09:27 PM
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Agreed dont put DOT 5 in the slave is not recommended for it.
As for masters the Ram is a stocker w/a adjustable push rod. Others here have made stockers adjustable <search.
The McLeod master can be a pain, I have one, rebuilt it & it is perfect. I also race it often & flush/bleed the fluid out often as well. I think that is important to my combo staying trouble free. Brake fluid is cheap.
You have to have the hydraulics in good condition, & bled properly. Like w/a mity-vac. That is the easiest method.
If you drive the car w/a crappy pedal it just tearing the trans up.
The clutch release hydraulics are real important to the internal wear of the T-56.
Old 09-18-2005, 09:24 PM
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I am having same problem everything is fine with the engine not running but if you start it in gear it wants to nudge forward. Fluid is fine have the stock master with the homemade adjustable for about 6 months never had any trouble, also just replaced the slave 6 months ago also, along with ram powergrip hd clutch??????????
Is there anyway to check the stock master, it still bleeds fine, can they be rebuilt??



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