HitmanLSX

well I'm about to go do some logging and tuning. Any tips for HPTuner?

00Pontiac

read until your eyes fall out

are you new to tuning? I am, I've had my HPTuners for a couple weeks, as soon as I got it my laptop started crashing so I've just been doing an assload of reading

lots of good info in the stickies here in the tuning forum, takes a long time to digest all the info tho.

HitmanLSX

Yeah just went through my first 30 minute log after letting the LTFT's reset driving an hour and a half or so. I really like the histogram display in the Scanner for playback.

All I have to say is damn I'm runnin lean lol

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yep, what he said. there is a steep learning curve, but well worth it. so much can be done, just a step at a time.
Robert

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Go slow. Change 1 area at a time. Create a separate tune for each revision (so you can go back to any point if you get into trouble).

Lean is bad (dangerous to the motor) but rich will foul O2 sensors, which will screw up your ability to tune. If your O2s quit pulsing regularly (after the engine warms up) & start to read under 600mV, replace them.

WOT is what you want to tune. But first you NEED to tune for regular driving. The PCM takes all of it's baseline data off what happens before you plant the gas pedal. Get your LTFTs to read 0 to -3 in as many cells as possible. And in reality, if you are logging using histogram, using STFTs is more accurate (real time data).

Whatever the histogram cell reads, make that much correction in that cell in the program & log again. And smooth the timing & fuel....twice. Smooth is good!!! Look at the 3D charts & you will understand. Those herky - jerky numbers the factory tune has (changing 2 or 3 pts from 1 cell to the next) directly correlates to power output. As in rough, spikey dyno charts.

Mark

HitmanLSX

ok... to get the histogram to fill as many cells as possible without hitting PE what should I do? Turn off PE and not go WOT? or just not go WOT and hit as many RPMS and throttle positions I can?

And as far as the O2's is that 600mV period? Should I post a log when I get home and have you guys take a look at it?


otherwise I've been doing what you've said for the most part except I reset the fuel trims and let the LTFT's settle in (~100 miles of normal easy driving). And used the LTFT's in my logs loading all the data and using the average to make changes. so far most of the cells in the 80-100kpa in the 2500-4000 range are +/-5/6 some of the lower rpms are still +9ish.

The sheet I read also had me copy my Primary VE to my Secondary and bring the MAF fail freq to 0.


And no I'm not running costco gas anymore only Shell or 76

HitmanLSX

here's a zip with the last log I did (about 20-30 minutes worth of normal driving, no real WOT runs and most driving was 4k and below) and the last tune I did before that.

Whatcha think guys

http://www.sccow.com/joshs/joshtune5.zip

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Using your histo you can copy and use special paste to table and change exactly what you need in each cell, rather than an average which, imo, is not as accurate.
Robert

Edit: can't open your link?

HitmanLSX

hmmm worked for me, try right click save as?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

It asked me if I wanted to unlock and open, or something like that, then said there was a problem with your site/link? I'll try again.
Robert

HitmanLSX

and should I copy the LTFT's or STFT's from the histo.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Some guys do both. Just do all the same day, as the temp, humidity and such can change everything by 5%+ from one day to another. Doing both will get you closer quicker, is the report, however, I only use my LTFTs and when they are inline your stft will no longer be so scewed. I agree with Wahusker getting ltft in the negative, that way they don't interfer with WOT PE enrichment multiplier. (positives get froze and added to PE at wot and can cause rich, whereas negatives get dropped and stft get dropped) I still haven't got thaat bugger open?
Robert

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

yes it is true. if you go WOT while in Neg L trims you get 0.0% trim for the run. if you are positive it locks the last reading adding fuel making the run junk

HitmanLSX

lemme know what other views you need. all histograms are last value.

HitmanLSX

part 2 the second Prim VE and Sec VE graphs are after adding the LTFT's from the latest log and smoothing twice per mark's recommendations (and yes every time I've made changes I've saved it as a different bin)

Silverhawk_02TA

I wrote up a VE tuning guide a while back that you may find useful. It even made it's way into the sticky in the PCM Tuning forum somehow . If you look under the "MAF and VE Tuning" topic in the sticky it's the "Tuning VE via fuel trims" link. You can also find it here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/304025-guide-ve-tuning-using-fuel-trims.html . If you have any questions about anything in the guide let me know!

HitmanLSX

Might have to start over and try your process.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

OK Josh, if you look at the PE graphs, you notice a big mountain down low (the cells are dark orange) where your car is way too rich. That should all be yellow & smoothly tapered up to the hi rpm area where it should be orange. (and you have a small valley around 85 that should be brought up a little to match)

If you look at the LTFTs, there are a bunch of -12s that correspond to that mountain, meaning the PCM is trying it's best to compensate for that. So knock that down. If you look at the VE table there is a group of cells that have 90s & 100s in that same area. Change those to be more like the cells above & below them (think 70s).

Post your timing tables.

HitmanLSX

k here's the timing tables. second set is after adjusting for the retard in the logs.

Also the second set of VE 3D graphs is after smoothing and adding the data from the last log. should I bring those down more?

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

AFTER you get the fuel dialed in you can get rid of the timing valley from 80 g/cyl up in the 4400 rpm area. You will want to make that area flat. Mine is 28* all the way across. But first work on getting the fuel right w/0 KR....