LETZ RUN

iTrader: (11)

its kinda a moot point since the motor let go this weekend, but it woulda been more fun to blow it up on spray. the window switch would not work. I had the on set at 2800 and off at 6400.. had cyl mode at 1 (as per instructions).. i tried 4(as suggested by someone at the track) and and 8 just because. none worked. i used the white #10 wire for the tach signal. it is supposed to read rpm like a tach correct? when the car was running it would say 0 all the time, like it wasnt getting a signal at all.

Anyoen have any ideas? I cant really test it now till i pull the motor, but id still like to know why it wasnt working. it seems like it would have to be the tach wire, but that should be the correct place to tap into right?

i really wish i coulda sprayed it. i guess on the bright side, not spraying it kept the rod inside the block.

89ws6formula50

iTrader: (6)

I noticed that there is a 10 white on both halves of the PCM, did you use the one closest to the engine bay?

89ws6formula50

iTrader: (6)

mine is set on 4 and works fine, or maybe you didnt have all the connections secure?

LETZ RUN

iTrader: (11)

i used the 10white on the bottom one (closest to the engine). is that the right or wrong one? i know all the other connections are secure.. for that one, since i was leary of cutting it, we used one of those connectors that just taps into a wire.

ITSTOCK

iTrader: (1)

Is this a used window switch???

My window switch stopped working recently, and it is do to the unit itself. It is not sending a ground to the relay through the yellow wire. Do you have a meter???

If you get it set correctly (it should show up in the search), and it still does not work, borrow a meter from someone and I will help you troubleshoot.

89ws6formula50

iTrader: (6)

yeah, thats the same way I did mine

LETZ RUN

iTrader: (11)

no its a new unit, not used. hmm.. thanks guys

XTrooper

1. It must be in 4 cylinder mode to work properly.

2. Check your wiring and especially check that you are spliced into the correct white wire. My PCM has four white wires coming from it.

LETZ RUN

iTrader: (11)

why do the directions specifically say.. GM LS1 Engines with individual coils per cylinder must be ran in the 1cyl mode? If it needs to be in 4cyl mode? i know the mode isnt the cause, i tried them all.

XTrooper

Simply because the directions are wrong! You can trust me on this. My unit would not work in Mode 1 and works perfectly in 4-cylinder mode. Add to that the fact that with all other rpm window switch you have to use 4-cylinder mode when installing them on an LSx motor and it's pretty clear which mode to use.

If your switch isn't working while in 4-cylinder mode and all other wiring and connections are correct, then you are either tapped into the wrong white PCM wire or you have a defective unit. My bet would be on the former.

Hocky

iTrader: (5)

Yea... definately 4 cylinder mode. Get out the multimeter.

David@TNT

Because they originally thought it could be used by simply drawing off one of the coils breaking wire, making it run in 1 cyl operation.. Im sure they know that now but dont want to make detailed instructions on finding the tach wire on late model cars.. Just my .02

stangkillinws6

Ummm, I just had this problem. I was trying to use the Little blue connectors that clip two wires together. The problem with mine was that the connectors were to wide open to make contact with the tiny PCM #10 wire. So, I directly spliced and soldered the wires together and it picked up signal.

You need to run off the Blue Pcm wire connector. The red has no #10 on a 99-2000 trans am. In other words Use the Pcm harness on the bottom of the computer.

Also, The instructions on the kit are way wrong. You need to run on 4 cyl mode and i set mine at 2900 and 5900 the factory rev limiter is at 6150 and you want to leave a window of (recommended 200 RPM)

Sorry you blew you motor but like the old saying goes,

"Pill it till ya kill it, Build it, Knock it down one and sauce the Poop out of it"

WickEdSix98

iTrader: (4)

Ive got a V6 but mine wouldn't work off the tach wire. I called MSD and they told me to set it on 2 cylinder mode and hook it to the negative input wire to a coil. I tried the crankshaft sensor wire and I finally got a signal, but it was reading about 11-12k at 6000 RPM, I then tried the camshaft sensor and it was reading about 3000-3500 at 6k, I changed the setting to 1 cylinder and it reads right now. Might help and might not but thats my experience.

XTrooper

First, I forgot to mention earlier that I'm sorry to hear that your motor let go on you. That sucks.

Second, I somehow missed this part of your message and this more than likely identifies the problem. Barring a bad unit and if it's getting power (which it obviously was if it was reading zero), then you weren't getting a tach signal because it "should" be reading your engine speed like a tach. Mine jumps back and forth between 8 and 9 at idle with my WOT switch taped down and the arming switch on.

Now the cause of this could be a few things. You could be spliced into the wrong wire or the wire might be right, but the connection is bad OR if your yellow on/off ground wire, especially if it's connected to an FPSS (fuel pressure safety switch) might have been the problem. If that ground isn't working properly, the digital switch will light up and you'll be able to go through its setup, but it won't read the tach signal and so it won't "see" when you hit your ON rpm point and your system won't spray. I just went through this when my FPSS decided to stop working.