ashade98

iTrader: (16)

Finally got my PRC 5.3L stg 2.5's. My overall impression of them is (not sure). They looked pretty good but the packaging wasn't quite what I expected (no visible damage though). They also still needed some attention, they had alot of sharp raised lips and burrs.

I just got done cleaning up the burrs and edges and there were alot of them. I used a tiny finishing file, man they really needed it. There were loose burrs (that I could pull off with my fingers/fingernails) @ the plug threads in the combustion chamber, in the water jackets, and even the intake and exhaust ports.

Now I'm pretty happy with them ! I'm wondering how you guy's clean these things before install? Other than compressed air, do any of our "extremely **** members" do any other type of cleaning? I want to make sure I don't end up with any tiny burrs in my internals!!!

Thanks in advance
-Aaron

ashade98

iTrader: (16)

I got some advise from Pretator Z, (THANKS!!!) Anyone else???

TTT

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

can ou post it up? im thinking of getting a set of heads that are used and doing some port work to them...(cant pass up this deal, even though they wont go one for a LONG time)

ashade98

iTrader: (16)

He pretty much just said that he used compressed air and some WD-40!!!

I bought an air nozzel from Harbor Freight that I think will be usefull. It's a small air/siphon nozzel. It has a 13" extension that's about as big around as a straw, and you can run up to 100psi through it. I figure I ought to be able to blow out every nook and cranny with it!! $12 .

Should also be usefull for the head bolt holes!!

Good Luck (I'm sure I'm gonna' need a little myself)

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Dont use a lubricant to clean your heads, you dont want the residue. If they are dirty, use carb blast. Just keep away from your valve seals. If they are dirty or not, just finish off with water. Only do that right before you assemble, due to the fact you will get some rust on exposed steel areas. IE, seats and guides. Blow clean with air anything water or chemicals left behind. Never install "wet". That is how you should clean them if you dont have any detergent wash on hand.

Brandon

91sbcamaro

iTrader: (3)

im just going to use compressed air to get all the stuff out of the ports, im to scared to use any chemicals or anyhitng on mine

ashade98

iTrader: (16)

I think I'll stay away from the carb cleaner as well. It's not going to wash away any loose metal burrs anyway. No sense in risking it!!!!

NYC FRANK

Ive seen shops use Brake Cleaner and compressed Air.

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

Works for me!

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

I used Carb Cleaner to clean up alot of the Carbon. Brake cleaner wouldn't get it off well enough.

I also got some Plastic scrapers to clean up old Gasket material. Take some scotch brite pads to the ports not hard, but not light. itll get all the residue and any small metal that might be hanging around. (shouldn't be any but doesn't hurt.)

I then put them in the Dish washer with no Detergent and let it basically hot wash the part for an hour. Came out pretty good. Took about 3 hours to clean 1 head well enough. Still thinking about getting a good valve job done and then finnally assy. them and swap them on.

ashade98

iTrader: (16)

Brake cleaner, or putting them through the dishwasher???? Are we talking about assembled heads here???? These are new assembled heads, I just had to clean up some burrs from the cnc process. I don't wan't little aluminum burrs floating around my engine.

NYC FRANK

That,s what Cartek did (brake cleaner & compressed air) to NEW heads before install just to make sure they were clean. I would also try and push on the valve to open It to make sure there's no metal particles in the valve seat area.

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

I use starting fluid to clean everything. It works great and dries quicker than brake cleaner. As far as the burrs go, just hit them with a file and then use the starting fluid.