Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

ok well i found a non ported LS6 oil pump like i wanted since i am not really high up there on performance mods yet, and since i think my oil pump is goin down the *******. plus its better to be safe than sorry. so my question is how much does it usually cost to get a LS6 oil pump installed and also since my car is a 98 what else do i need other than what comes with the pump. and im not goin to do a cam swap right now dont have the money for it.

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

well its a pain in the *** to do, you might as well save up for a cam!

I dont know how much it would be, but you can do it yourself if you follow some writeups. You should get some new gaskets, and a new pulley bolt I guess

Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

so you are saying basically get the pump now then get a cam and underdrive pulley and do them all at the same time, that sounds good to me but wouldnt i need to get the car tuned after a cam? i can get it done for about 150 from my f-body guys.

Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

also what would be a good cam for my setup that i am gonna be doing in the future, pacesetter long tube headers, offroad Y, Asp underdrive pulley, Ls6 oil pump, and possibly a LS6 intake.

yak

iTrader: (15)

you will need an ls6 intake with a cam unless you like giving up 20-35 hp. the options are endless. what do you want overall, power or drivabibily, or a compromise of both? a big cam on a 112 will work in a stock a4 driveline, it can be done, don't ask me how I know.

Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

how do you know lol jk. but yeah i want to get a LS6 intake when i find one for a good price, and also i dont really want to do a cam swap right now b/c of gas prices and all. this is my daily driver and only car so she has to get decent gas mileage. so i think i am gonna go with LS6 oil pump and LS2 timing chain for now and possibly a ASP underdrive pulley, does that sound good for now????

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Do it all at once or don't do it at all unless your oil pump is completely dead, or detrimental to engine life. There is no reason to go in there and replace the timing chain, pump, and pulley when you're just gonna go back in for a cam.

Snafu

iTrader: (1)

Same I told you in your other thread...all or none, it's just not worth the effort for just the pump or chain.

Keep in mind that a cam doesn't necessarily reduce gas mileage...as long as it is not super-aggressive cam and you get a good tune they usually turn out with better mileage than stock.

Do you have a good tune done yet?

Also remember that when you swap the intakes for an LS6 you don't have to take the timing cover off...that's an independant upgrade...so you don't have to save it up for the pulley, chain, cam, and oil pump.

Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

why i dont get why, i mean its not going to hurt anything and it will just give me a little experience in installing and taking that stuff off for one day when i do decide to change the cam. and plus the way gas prices are right now a cam will drain that way down and i cant afford to do that just yet.

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

like posted above, unless its really a problem maybe you should just leave it for now.
but if you dont mind working on your car, go for it

edit- and dont assume a cam will give you terrible gas milage, mine dropped maybe 1-2 but that cause i just get on it more i think, and my hwy improved a little. depending on the size it would change things a little

Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

well if i were to get a cam what kind of cam and where should i get it from for a good price???? whats a good cam for daily driver???

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Good to see you finally comin' around Get it over with. TR224 on a 114 is prob the most popular and won't really hurt your mileage much or at all if you get a good tune. You could even go milder like a 220/224 or something along those lines. Call up a sponsor and tell them your goals with the cam, and they'll tell you what will work well.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

What about something closer to 228 or even 230? I figure no sense in doing a cam swap unless you want to get power from it, not that i know how much power you will get, but it seems 228 to 230 is better than mild, but not too aggressive.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Those are getting up there in the duration. The 224 is perfect for a DD car giving good power gains, smoother idle, and less mpg decrease, if any at all.

Snafu

iTrader: (1)

Agreed.

The LPE GT2-3 is also good for dd duty...mild enough to sound stock, but makes good pwer...a guy with LT's this cam and a tune made 360rwhp...not too shabby for a mild cam.

You should really get some better valve springs with a ew cam...for mild ones you can get away with 918's but my preference is always duals.

Because of the several hours of labor it will take, until you do it, you don't realize how much is involved...trust us...those of we wouldn't lead you astray.

Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

i understand but cams are expensive, and plus with a cam you will prolly need hardened push rods, better lifters, retainer springs, and maybe better rockers. i mean its not i dont want to do it its just i dont have the money for it right now and i kinda want to get this oil pressure thing fixed and outta my mind, besides i have to get my oil pressure sending unit fixed as well and stupid *** dealership is quoting me 150 for it. they charged me 75 bucks just to cut off locking lugs and put 4 new lug nuts on. but i dont think im goin to the dealership anymore since i found some F-Body shops.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

I just ordered a tr224 cam on a 112 lsa. Like stated above, don't change the oil pump unless you have too. Sucks to do things twice. Typical labor for a cam swap is about $500.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Tune is $300-$600, depending on sales and where you live.

Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

tune for me is only 150 bucks since the guy specializes on f-bodys and i am friends with his friends and all that stuff. but i dont think i am gonna do a cam soon but in the future for sure.

firefighter

Z just a note of experience from the stuff I've built over the years although I haven't done any LS1 stuff yet but plenty of SBC stuff just take your time and save up to do it right when you do it band aid style tou end up breaking more stuff than if you didn't. For example say you put in a cam you break an old spring so then you put in a set of springs well then you bend a pushrod so you replace them then next thing you colapse a lifter see where I am going with this? It's kinda like taking a shower and putting on some dirty underwear. It just doesn't make sense if it's running good just slowly put the parts together until you got them all then do the work.