98boxer

iTrader: (7)

and when driving I hear grinding, click sounds and some thumps. And what I mean by revs is that, I step on the gas and it holds the rpms, but it does not climb mph what so ever when I put the car in drive.

Tranny rebuild or could it be torque converter? Thanks for the help and I looked for search button but didn't find some thing direct to my descriptions. Thanks.

UPDATE

Gm tranny kicks ***. Doesn't have a shift kit so I didn't expect a hard shift but do miss the hard shifts from my previous tranny. But this tranny makes my car fly. So all in all satified with the gm tranny and with the warrenty.

dissonance

So in neutral on a hill it's like your cars in park?

What happens if you increase the throttle while in the reverse? Does it go backwards?
All forward gears are working? Lockup is working? And these noises are audible while driving in forward gears?

Are you getting a lot of noise in sharp turns at low speeds? 5mph or lower? Turning the wheels as far as they will go… driving on sold pavement

This might be a rear end problem...

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

Yes. The car will not move back while in neutral.



The car will move forward and not backwards.

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All forward gears are working?

Yes.

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Lockup is working? And these noises are audible while driving in forward gears?

Not sure how to tell if lockup is working, but the noises are diffently audible while in forward gears.




When I slowed down to turn into the parking lot, the car was still making the noise seconds after I took my foot off the gas.

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5mph or lower?

Yes, it did make noise even at 5 mph. I have to use very light tap of gas just so the car dont make noises.

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Turning the wheels as far as they will go… driving on sold pavement

While the car is on and I turn the wheel -though not all the way- the car will not make noise untill I press the gas pedal. I drove on decent roads.

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This might be a rear end problem...

I hope so, assuming its less then what gm dealership quoted me for a remanufactered tranny.

I took the car in a few hours ago. And they will give me a call later on today or Monday.

The employee said they wanted to check the car out first to see if a rebuild is not needed or what may be causeing the problems. As you said it may be the rear end problem just hope I don't have to break the bank, but do these descriptions sound like the rear end? I have never replaced the differntial fluid.

This would be my second tranny dieing on me if in fact the tranny is bad.

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

Just got the call from chevy dealer and he said the tranny is bad. So hopfully this one will last a long while, because im on my third tranny.

dissonance

Hate to hear that... what have been the other problems with the old Trans?

What kinda cost is the dealer hitting you with? Drop off to pick up installed? Is the same dealer doing all the installs? No warranty? I could not heart handing over the money a dealer would want for a trans rebuild... that’s why I rebuilt my trans my self, you might even want to looking to a local speed shop and see what they can do for you... might be cheaper in the long run

for some reason some cars go threw trans like no other... my dads car is on his 4th "lt1" but he drivers it kinda hard and makes over 450rwhp.

My car snapped the sun shell reaction gear... the beast seemed to have fixed that. Do you have any idea why you might be losing Trans? It really sounds like you might be bracking the sun shell. as stated above this is a very easy fix... i think it was around $50 for the beast sun shell gear




Oh and the converter lockup is almost like a 5th shift… it’s when the rpms drop after you get in to 4th gear and sometimes 3rd.

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

With my first trans. I was on the freeway using cruise control, then I stepped on the gas to pass another vehicle and suddenly the rpms rised high and the car didn't advance - lost 4th gear.

With my recent trans. I had just made a fast right turn onto a street then stepped on the gas pedal some more, forced a downshift then the noise started.

2300 hundred for a remanufacterd tranmission. Which he says all the inside parts are new except for the out side of the transmission. I will have a 3 year warrenty or 100,000 miles warrenty and If something screws up I can take the tranny to any gm dealership. The same dealership that is selling my tranny is also putting on the tranny.

When my previous tranny went bad, I shoped around in my local county and all prices for a normal tranny rebuild was around/above 2,000 dollars with a couple of them saying it will eventually break again If I don't upgrade to a performance tranny for a price of over 3,000 dollars. So I knew this time I wanted to deal with gm dealership for the warrenty and the price seems reasonable to me, compared to the estimates I had gotten from previous trans shops. Also I have to give the dealership my tranny, but the plus is the warrenty is good for 3 years.

I ain't making that horsepower, but I do drive fast every now and then.

On a fast launch could that break the sun shell? I know i do a lot of fast launchs, my dad always told me that something could break from all those fast launchs, guess he's right again.

Tomorrow, I will call them ask what seemed to be broken.

I think because I usually force a downshift and keep adding more gas, could be a reason why my trannys are breaking. Also could be from time to time I manually shift the auto to 1 thru 4th. Funny thing the other day, I manuelly ran 1st thru 4th, but not forced much. Then the day before that, I put the car in neutral and reved her for a second. But it could all be that I bought the recent -bad- tranny used, and was set up for 1/4 runs and has a shift kit stage 3 with a stock torque converter. Paid 1200 hundred and that was with out a torque converter.



I'll have to look for that when I get my car back.

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

I also forgot to add that before I broke my first tranny. I had the hpp3 installed -my settings- and i put the trans line pressure to 100 percent, all was good. Then I installed subframe connectors and -seriously- car felt tight and seemed to launch really good, almost as if I got an extra hp with the subframe connectors -seemed that was at least. Anyways, after the weekend on my morning way to work, I raced a motorcycle and I was walking him, forcing a downshift on and off. Then that evening is when I was on the highway on cruise control and lost 4th gear followed by 3 that night. Before the subframe connectors the strut tower brace was a great addition, but now I can say the subfram connectors have to be my best addition in suspecsion and handling.

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

Heres an update, and some questions If someone can answer them.

I talked to the chevy dealer and they said that my radiator trans cooler is plugged and they will have to replace the radiator and that is why my tanny went out because the tranny was gettin too hot from the tranny cooler being plugged.

My question is do they have to replace the whole radiator? I've heard we have a stock trans cooler but is it sewn into the radiator as one pieace, which why they say they have to replace the radiator? Should I ask for the old radiator back?

Thanks for your help.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

Man, you took the 98 to the dealer? I would assume that there is not a warranty.. So, they are going to charge you a freakin arm and a leg. Now that you know what you have to replace, the tranny and the radiator (stock tranny cooler is in the radiiator, yes)... I would pay them for the diagnostics and thats it.

Bad *** Built Tranny = stock one plus what they would charge for install.

Radiator you can get one off of here for cheap.

You can always unplug the return line and see if indeed it is clogged. But to do that, you need to have you a new tranny. They are going to charge you 2K+ at the dealer. Not hard to pull the tranny, order a built one form the sponsors and call it done.

Thats what I would do, when it break== UPGRADE!