Anyone have their wideband sensor go bad??
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Maryland/Illinois
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone have their wideband sensor go bad??
Well, at the drag strip last week I had been getting some crazy readings from my wideband. It worked great the first couple runs, but then in the staging lane idling the thing started reading a/f ratios of 16-18:1. But, the stock O2 sensors were switching about like they normally do. I did not know what the heck was going on, and unfortunately the battery on the laptop died shortly after. Fast forward to this weekend. I recalibrated the LC-1, fired the car up and it seems to be working at idle, but then I go for a cruise and the a/f ratios start dropping, eventually leveling out at 8:1 !! No I know that aint right, it would be throwing fuel out the exhaust. Plus, crusing down the road the stock O2 are swithcing nice and fast.
Anybody got any ideas? I am going to call Innovate when they open. If that sensor is junk already that is crap . I have only had it in the car for 3 months.
Anybody got any ideas? I am going to call Innovate when they open. If that sensor is junk already that is crap . I have only had it in the car for 3 months.
#3
TECH Senior Member
do you turn your wideband on EVERY time you run the car? If not that will lead to an early demise of the sensor... I've gone through a few... but as mentioned they're cheap (one of the advantages of the Bosch vs the NTK sensor)
Also you can try free air calibration again and see if that fixes it
Also you can try free air calibration again and see if that fixes it
#4
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Maryland/Illinois
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Horist, yep I have my wideband wired into the fuse box under the hood. It is an empty spot that is powered when the ignition is on. I did catch that part in the instructions.
Now, I have had the wideband in the car for about 6 weeks straight now. I have put about 1000 everyday miles on it, but that shouldnt matter right? I figured as long as the thing was powered it would be fine to leave in until I am done tuning.
Now, I have had the wideband in the car for about 6 weeks straight now. I have put about 1000 everyday miles on it, but that shouldnt matter right? I figured as long as the thing was powered it would be fine to leave in until I am done tuning.
#5
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (2)
the only thing id be concerned about is with my lm1 im supposed to heat it before i even start the car...your staying its hooked up to start heating basically when you start the car...unless you turn the ignition on for 30 seconds before you start the car. Also where is the sensor located? Im assuming fairly far downstream right? How is it positioned? between 12 & 3? The models of vehicles that use w/b's stock are usually able to locate it close enough to the cylinders to get it heated very quickly...if you have it at the head of your header or in your ypipe & arent pre heating it that might be why its running into problems. Just my 02
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Maryland/Illinois
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by foff667
the only thing id be concerned about is with my lm1 im supposed to heat it before i even start the car...your staying its hooked up to start heating basically when you start the car...unless you turn the ignition on for 30 seconds before you start the car. Also where is the sensor located? Im assuming fairly far downstream right? How is it positioned? between 12 & 3? The models of vehicles that use w/b's stock are usually able to locate it close enough to the cylinders to get it heated very quickly...if you have it at the head of your header or in your ypipe & arent pre heating it that might be why its running into problems. Just my 02
That is a good point about heating. I do not normally sit with the key on for 30 seconds before starting the car.
And yes, my w/b is located in my y-pipe, at about 1 oclock position.
#7
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (2)
in that case i would just think it isnt getting heated quick enough & you might want to start just leaving the key in the on position for at least 20 seconds before startup...what did the lc1 instructions say about pre heating? I thought they would at least say something similar to the lm1.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
I've had a couple of bosch lsu-4 sensors go bad over time. Water will kill them VERY quickly, so make sure if the vehicle sits outside over night, your sensor is located on the top 1/2 of the pipe, between the 9 and 3 oclock positon.
Never killed a NTK sensor though
Ryan
Never killed a NTK sensor though
Ryan
#9
FormerVendor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Waldorf, MD
Posts: 3,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My NTK takes a kick and keeps ticking. Left it outside in the grass one night, powered it up for two days straight multiple times. ran it unheated a few times and it keeps on going. Sucks that it costs so much
#10
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
I've got my sensor coming in through the floorboard and drawing power from the handheld/lighter socket. I hear you can get condensation on the plug, and it should be blown off before heat is applied to the sensor. So I start the engine, wait a few seconds, then turn on the handheld to warm up the sensor. Once it starts warming up, I start driving when it's convenient to me, not when the sensor is up to temp.