FL01SS

I'm looking at these speakers:
KAPPA62.7I
Specifications:
Power Handling, RMS: 75 Watts
Power Handling, Peak: 225 Watts
Sensitivity: 94dB
Frequency Response: 45Hz - 25kHz
Mounting Depth: 2-3/16"
Impedance: 2 Ohms

Can someone who knows about this stuff tell me what I can expect by running a 2 ohm tweet off the 4 ohm HU? There's been discussion about running the 4 ohm 6.5 off the amp, but not vice versa. Thanks a lot!

FL01SS

Any one?

HiTechGent

Unfortunately, I have no info on the output capabilities of the head unit. Going from 2 ohm to 4 ohm is no sweat, because your drawing less current from your signal source. Going the other way, you can burn up output transistors pretty fast if they can't handle the extra current.

Other than that, they should be decidedly louder than the stock tweeters were.

Have you looked at the Image Dynamics CXS62's? These components come with a 4 ohm Tweeter and a 2 ohm Midbass.

They are priced at $279 from these guys:

http://www.carmedia1.com/en-us/dept_19.html

todddchi

iTrader: (3)

I would not recommend hooking a 2 ohm woofer up to the h/u, that is asking for disaster.

In the arrangements that use the h/u channels... they are powering the 4 ohm tweeters. Hooking up a 2 ohm woofer and driving bass is a much different scenario.

It might work for a little bit but I wouldn't do it unless you are looking for a reason to upgrade your deck.

dust6928

iTrader: (2)

when you go 2ohm it actually doubles the output power. it causes the source to work twice as hard which causes more heat and wears it out. an amp can handle this for the most part but a HU is not designed to run at this load. i would not recommend it.

FL01SS

I must not have been clear, I'm not going to drive a 2 ohm woofer off the 4 ohm HU channel, I wanted to run the 2 ohm tweet off the HU. I guess I don't understand how having a 2 ohm tweet powered off the 4 ohm HU would make the HU work harder?!? Doesn't it put out the same amount of power no matter what the speaker it's trying to push?

dust6928

iTrader: (2)

if it is a 2 ohm tweeter only then no it wont make that much difference because it will only be playing higher frequencies which doesnt take much power to produce. if you are using the speaker leads off the HU then it doesnt matter what kind of speaker it is you will still be dropping those channels down to a lower ohm rating which a headunit is not really designed to play at anything below 4 ohms. when you run at 2ohms then the source has a higher load on it which caused it to work harder. most good amps at 2ohms doubles its power output a HU wont double but it will have to work a lot harder. but like i said, a set of two ohm tweeters may not hurt anything due to the limited higher frequencies they are designed to reproduce, but they will definitely be loud.

todddchi

iTrader: (3)

At high volume levels you would still be pushing a 2 ohm load even if it is a tweeter. You don't want to do this, it will cost you a head unit sooner or later.

01 Sunset SS

I actually put a pair of those in my front doors on my 2001 vert.. That exact model infinity kappa 62.7i. They sound great. If you look at the stock door speakers they are 2 ohms from the factory, but get this the rear speakers are 4 ohms. I was a little confused, but after putting the 2 ohm's in front and some 4 ohm's in the rear. It was very easy and sounds a hell of a lot better than the stock speakers. The reason GM put two ohm speakers in the doors was to extract every last amp from the system to give you sound. hope this helps. my email is akania@tampabay.rr.com if you have any questions.

HiTechGent

As Todd said, you are still trying to drive 2 ohms with a circuit that normally sees 4 ohms. It does not matter whether the speakers are tweeters or woofers. It still makes the output transistor(s) source twice the current at a given volume control setting. This may or may not cause an immediate failure, but it will shorten the life of the HU.

I'm glad to hear that Sunset has had good luck with these speakers so far. But head unit failure is a risk you take with this set-up.

FL01SS

This sucks.

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

The real answer is what Output IC is in the circuit...what is the HU .. I may have missed the model/mftr. You can probably get away with it although it isn't reccommended. Yea...I'm a tech that lives on the edge. I've made a lot of people mad doing the "impossible". If all else fails grab a fat white 1-2 ohm resistor and slap it in series...it might knock down output a tiny bit but not much...try it...only costs a 1$ or less.

HiTechGent

We were talking about the stock Monsoon head unit. And your right, it may well be that the HU can handle the current with no problem. Since I don't have an extra Monsoon HU to take apart (and I am not willing to disassemble the one in my SS), I haven't a clue what components are used in the output driver for the front channel. Therefore, I can only speculate as to what the capabilities are. But knowing Delco, they built it to handle the maximum requirements of the stock 4 ohm load, and little more (if any) beyond that.

If one of you is willing to send me your HU, I can disect it and analyze the capabilities of it's guts. Then we would know for sure what the HU can and can't do.

todddchi

iTrader: (3)

I'm sorry but I think that is a little off for what he is proposing.

For ALL f-body Monsoon setups, there is not a single one where the h/u drives a 2ohm speaker, tweeter or otherwise.

The only thing the head unit ever drives are the 4 ohm tweeters. H/U power is good enough to make tweeters loud enough to keep up with the basic factory amp. In verts... the H/U actually powers no drivers at all.

In all honesty I would suspect that the amp section of the factory h/u isn't upgraded much if at all from a regular Delco. Most of which use a combination of 4 and 10 ohm speakers, or at max 4 4ohms.

As far as your 2ohm speakers working... if they are real 2 ohm speakers and you are sending a full range signal to them - I would say you are lucky that the h/u is still working. I also suspect if you crank it for an hour or so your CD's are coming out feeling like hotcakes.

However if you are using not driving bass, or the speakers aren't quite 2 ohm... then that might be ok. It's the heavy, sustained power drain of a 2ohm bass load that would kill it, for sure.

I guess in reality a factory h/u isn't that much of a gamble. But it seems like a bad long term plan.

FL01SS

What is this? Is it like the "bass blockers" you can get at Best Buy or what? If not, what should I look for and would it make that much of a difference???

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

A resistor is a simple device that adds resistence to a circuit. In a tweeter crossover you may have a resistor or two to lower the output of a bright tweeter. The capacitors and coils roll off frequencies in 180 deg opposite ways. You would probably go to Radio Shack to get a sand filled 2 ohm 5 watt resistor...put that in series with the + terminal of the tweeter wire after the crossover. You will get lower output...may be too low...but will yield 4 ohm load.

FL01SS

I don't understand it, but I'll try it.

FL01SS

Just to make sure, you mean put it between the HU and the crossover, right?

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

Pretty sure it would go right at the speaker, after the crossover.

FL01SS

So I can just walk into Radio Shack and ask them for a white 2 ohm resistor and they'd know what I'm talking about??