Whisper

iTrader: (12)

Ive read tuffluck's thread about installation but somethings seem vague such as how to not blow the tweeters. I have not actually removed the door panel and seen what im working with yet so perhaps actually seeing everything is all i need but I wanted to ask before I ended up ruining a set of 60$ speakers. Could anyone provide(or are there any in threads) even more specific idiot proof instructions? Thanks a bunch. If you guys think the current write up is good enough for me to stumble through, let me know and ill delete the useless post.

Tom99SS

iTrader: (2)

Once you look at the stock speakers and how they are wired, the installation instructions in tuffluck's thread will make sense.

Just remember the tweeter and woofer are each wired individualy, not like a true coaxil speaker. Thus, the changes needed to the SPS-170a and the way it will need to be wired.

Good luck, just take your time and look things over first.

HiTechGent

I just did this a few weeks ago, so I can give you a few tips.

I understand there is a good post about replacing power window motors that detail how to take the door apart, so I'll just talk about the speakers themselves.

1. After you remove the door panel, remove the 3 bolts holding the speaker and plastic frame in the door. Disconnect the electrical conector from speaker. You can now take the speaker to a workbench or other suitable space.

2. Remove the 4 screws attaching the speaker to the plastic frame. Note: The speaker connector is attached to the frame with a metal clip. Carefully pry this off with a screwdriver or other implement of distruction. You can lift the speaker out of the frame and set the frame aside.

3. De-solder or cut the 4 wires of the speaker harness to remove it from the speaker. Take the speaker harness, some masking tape, and a writing utensil out to the car.

4. Plug the speaker connector back into it's mate on the door harness. Match the 4 wires on the speaker side (2 red, 2 black) to the corresponding wire colors on the door side and mark them appropriately for future reference. Disconnected the speaker harness and take it back to your work area.

The wire colors on the door harness should be as follows:

Drivers Side:

Woofer (+) = Dark Blue
Woofer (-) = Light Blue
Tweeter (+) = Black
Tweeter (-) = Yellow

Passenger Side:

Woofer (+) = Orange
Woofer (-) = Dark Green
Tweeter (+) = Light Green
Tweeter (-) = Violet (or purple if you prefer)

Now your ready to install the Alpine speaker. (Note: I don't have one in front of me, I'm doing this from memory)

5. Looking at the back of the Alpine, you'll notice a small capacitor. One lead is connected to the positive speaker terminal, the other to Tweeter (+). De-solder the lead connected to the speaker terminal. Solder the 'Tweeter (+)' wire of your speaker harness to this lead.

6. Follow the Tweeter (+) wire on the speaker (the other side of the capacitor from the one you just attached the wire to) you should be able to locate the Tweeter (-) wire. This will be attached to the negative speaker terminal. De-solder this wire from the terminal and solder the 'Tweeter (-)' wire from your speaker harness to it.

7. Solder the 'Woofer (+)' wire of your speaker harness to the positive speaker terminal and the 'Woofer(-)' wire to the negative speaker terminal.

8. Attach speaker to the plastic frame and install in the door.

Repeat steps for other side.

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

So if i dont have a soldering tool im screwed yet again?

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

I did mine without a soldering iron. I just got a little creative with some butt-connectors.

It is possible, if you can do some good crimping. Mine are not coming out.

HiTechGent

What? You don't have a Radio Shack near you? A soldering iron is only a few dollars. I have one of their nicer models, and it was only $30. Would I use it to assemble printed circuit boards? Heck, no! But for common repairs and mods around the home or garage, it's perfect.

I suppose you could use the crimp terminals for the woofer connections. But I think it would be a pain to try and put a crimp splice on the tweeter connections. The leads are very short.

Soldering is the best method for ANY electrical connection. Period.

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

I work at one.^^^^^

DamanSS

Ok, so would these instructions work for the Alpine SPS-17C2? Do you guys think these would be good speakers compared to the SPS-170as?

DamanSS

And, also (sorry to steal the thread), how do you guys fit the seperate speakers and tweeters in the camaros with the 170a?

HiTechGent

I do not believe much has changed between the SPS-170A and -17C2. As far as I know, the SPS-17C2's are just the 2006 model number for the same speaker.

As for your second question. These Alpines are coaxial speakers with the tweeter permanantly mounted in the center of the woofer. The instruction are how to modify the connections to wire the tweeter and woofer to seperate inputs as in the stock Monsoon system.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

NE1 with a Monsoon in WS6 with the seperate tweeter/woofer keeping the stock tweeter wired as it is and just wiring up Alpine's woofer section only?

I find it hard to believe that a seperated tweeter doesn't sound better than one that is riding right in the middle of a woofer (sound seperation & all that jazz)?

And if this is possible, are there any recommended speakers that would replace only the woofer of the front door component system and how would you go about wiring this scenario?

-Jay-

HiTechGent

These Alpines would work fine in the T/A system with the stock tweeters. You just hook the speaker up to the woofer connections. The Alpine tweeter would not do anything as the Monsoon Amp has internal low-pass filters. Pretty much any aftermarket speaker would work. OF course, since the Monsoon doesn't put out a tremendous amount of power, you'll want a speaker with good sensitivity so you don't have to fiddle with the fader control.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

Thanx for the expert advice as usual!

Do you recommend another speaker other than the Alpine SPS170A/17C2 if I plan on using the woofer section only?

Guess there's really no need to pay for a tweeter I'm not gonna use!

HiTechGent

I have the Pioneer TS-M7PRS in my sail panels, I think they'd work well in the doors also. You could always go with a component speaker set and replace both your tweeters and woofers.

Tboh

Infinity - 6-1/2" 2-Way # REF6022I Bestbuy $109.

Fits the hole in the doors. ~2 or ~3.5 ohms Cut the capacitor off both ends to free it up. Run the wires as / hitechgent above keeping the capacitor inline with the tweeter+:

Drivers Side:

Woofer (+) = Dark Blue
Woofer (-) = Light Blue
Tweeter (+) = Black CAPACITOR
Tweeter (-) = Yellow

Passenger Side:

Woofer (+) = Orange
Woofer (-) = Dark Green
Tweeter (+) = Light Green CAPACITOR
Tweeter (-) = Violet (or purple if you prefer)

And these sound fantastic. The tweeter rotates so you can angle it toward you, .. cool.
The Alpine 17whatevers sounded less full than these. I may be getting more of these for the rear also.

Excellent website boys!

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

I also have replacements from CDT that are better sounding than the Alpine S-Type coaxials (I say this from experience, I've had them in my T/A). Better midbass (especially better than the Infinity's) and clear highs. Plus they wire like stock in both the Camaro and the Firebird. The reason for this is the unique design. They are a component set that has a removeable dust cap that can be replaced by a pole peice that you can mount the tweeter on. Then you run your tweeter wire right through the center of the magnet. It's a very cool design and they sound great! Makes it very easy to use instead of having to cut splice and solder everything. For the Firebird they mount just like a seperate component set. So in either case you get the great sound quality of a component and ease of wiring them without having to cut the tiny wires on your brand new speakers. These start at $149.00 a set with all your mounting hardware.
For the Camaro I also have Powerbass top of the line 3XL 6.75 coaxial that has an exposed crossover network attached to it with the tweeter wires exposed. These have a real crossover not just capacitor stuck to the tweeter in line. They also feature a kevlar impregnated cone, silk tweeter, 85watts rms power handling 170watts peak, and 3ohm impedance. These are only $80.00.
Both of these wire up easily and work well for F-body application but are especially easy when it comes to the Camaro's unique wiring needs.

Tboh

Do you have specs on these speakers? model numbers...?