double "nutting" on ARP studs
10-19-2005, 12:18 PM
#1
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double "nutting" on ARP studs Why is that the studs has to be hand tight instead of double nutting them?
the posibility of the stud to creep a little when torquing the nut towards "tight" voids the idea of hand tight whrigt?
I plan of putting red locktite on the treads that goes into the block and assembly lube under the nut and on the nut threads, correct?
thanks guys !
the posibility of the stud to creep a little when torquing the nut towards "tight" voids the idea of hand tight whrigt?
I plan of putting red locktite on the treads that goes into the block and assembly lube under the nut and on the nut threads, correct?
thanks guys !
10-19-2005, 01:30 PM
#2
If you use loctite on the studs, you may never get them out again. I spoke to ARP and they told me that this has happened many times and they have broken off in the block. I would contact ARP directly, that is what I always do and their tech support is excellent. You are trying to get bolt pre-load only.
Last edited by vettenuts; 10-19-2005 at 01:36 PM.
10-19-2005, 01:35 PM
#3
you do NOT need or want to locktite the studs in.
and think about why it stops turning. when you're just screwing them in, the only thing stopping it from turning is it bottoming out.
if you keep tightening, you're not helping the stud hold the head down.. you're just stressing the block on the weak bottom of the hole... and you're likely to crack it.
when you tighten the nut, the stud is being pulled UP the same amount as the nut is pulling down... and the stress is only on the threads.. like its designed.. you tighten (to spec) and the bolt is then in tension between the block and the nut... firmly holding the head into place.
locktite will NOT help any.. but it will make the studs almost impossible to remove..
and think about why it stops turning. when you're just screwing them in, the only thing stopping it from turning is it bottoming out.
if you keep tightening, you're not helping the stud hold the head down.. you're just stressing the block on the weak bottom of the hole... and you're likely to crack it.
when you tighten the nut, the stud is being pulled UP the same amount as the nut is pulling down... and the stress is only on the threads.. like its designed.. you tighten (to spec) and the bolt is then in tension between the block and the nut... firmly holding the head into place.
locktite will NOT help any.. but it will make the studs almost impossible to remove..
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10-20-2005, 09:06 PM
#8
Most of the time a head bolt when torqued in place is not quite as deep in the block as a stud that is hand threaded until it bottoms out because a saftey margin must be allowed for on the head bolt. Once you torque the nut on the stud you have stretched the stud just like you stretch a bolt. So with studs you probably have and extra thread or so in the block plus you are not tearing up the solf aluminum with the shear from the tightening of the bolt...ie it is steel to steel with the studs. Put another way, the clamping or tightness comes from the nut streching the stud not how tight the stud is in the block.
10-21-2005, 11:18 AM
#9
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Im going to use BOLTS on the heads (I hope I will not thear down the engine again), and STUDS in the bottom....
actually I was planning on leaving the studs permanently in the bottom, since is no point of removing the studs, if you can lift the caps easily, and again I had so much planning, loving, cursing, etc, with this assembly-rebuild, Im in no way planning to again go thru all the hassle of this.... I ENJOY WHRENCHING!!!!!
If the block I have is brand new, Ive checked (not chased, too risky) all the threads and they are all good, all studs go easy, how much torque to the studs only (1"pound?) or the least possibly
actually I was planning on leaving the studs permanently in the bottom, since is no point of removing the studs, if you can lift the caps easily, and again I had so much planning, loving, cursing, etc, with this assembly-rebuild, Im in no way planning to again go thru all the hassle of this.... I ENJOY WHRENCHING!!!!!
If the block I have is brand new, Ive checked (not chased, too risky) all the threads and they are all good, all studs go easy, how much torque to the studs only (1"pound?) or the least possibly
10-21-2005, 07:48 PM
#14
The heads will come off the motor more frequently than the motor will be torn down. To me, I'll never use another bolt for the heads... Studs ONLY. Doubly so on an aluminum block. Mains, You can go either way on, For me I go with studs. Loctite is NOT smart. Listen up!
