Zeus

My clutch isn't disengaging right now and I'm trying to fix it as it's literally so bad I need to turn the car off to shift into first and reverse, and shifting on the move still takes ~3seconds to get into gear. Anyways, I have a new master on the way, but for now I'm bleeding my system to try and get it working again.

I'm using the mity vac reverse bleed method, and every time I do it, my clutch gets WORSE!!! I fill up the mity vac canister with some clean DOT 3 brake fluid, stick the tapered attachment into the hose at the bottom of my clutch resevoir, and pump it up to 25in/HG.

I let the big fat bubbles come up to the top for about 20-30min (usually about 5 "strings" of them). I don't pump the pedal or crack it open while doing this. I occasionally slightly break the seal between the tip of the vac and the res, causing a rush of new fluid from the master. I then slowly release the vacuum when I'm done making sure no air gets back in the line. I've done this multiple times already.

I've completely rid the system of any old fluid, as it was pitch black, and now I can't get anything but clear no matter how hard I try. Everything seems like it should be golden, but there is no improvment when I try and get the car in gear. In fact the problem is actually WORSE. WTF is going on here?

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

I think maybe 25" is too much. I try not to go above 20 when I do it. If you go too high, its possible you may be sucking air into the system from the seals in the master and connections in the line.

MrEddie

I don't use the catch can and pump to around 20psi - maybe a little more. I do this over several days and the pedals firms up nicely. I do pump the pedal when it's installed and notice a few bubbles. I pump ten or so times (about two inches) and then all the way to the floor. Check out this site: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/buschm...utchbleed.html