red6speedss

iTrader: (26)

I installed pacesetter LTs on my 00 ss and now it keeps throwing codes and want idle right. I had my buddy turn off the rear o2s codes. I had to extend my front o2s by splicing wires in. I have doupble checked and triple checked the front o2s and everything looks fine. The codes are lean bank 1 and 2. and insufficent switching front o2s. it will idle fine and then all the sudden it will start trying to die. Then it will idle fine again. Please help. I can't figure this out. Thanks, Brett

DramaFoYoMama

It sounds like a fueling issue to me. Did he touch the VE table?

VsGonzo

probably your spliced wires are messed up. Sounds like a problem I had sometime back when my headers first got installed.

Make sure none of the wires are resting on the collectors either. That was my problem. The moment they got pulled away everything went fine. Could be the heat on the spliced wires in your case as well.

DramaFoYoMama

I was reading different post then replied to this one. I would have to agree with the reply above. I am not a fan of spliced wires.

dissonance

Are the headers leaking at the flange were the headers meet the head? I mean it's not hard to connect red wire to red wire etc. how did you connect the wires? Twist? what guage did you use?

red6speedss

iTrader: (26)

I used the wires and connectors that came with the pacesetter headers.

dissonance

did they looks like the center wire in this picture? so you did not cut any wires?

so have you noticed any exhuast leaks around were the header meets the head? lean code is for low mv output from the o2 sensors. what header gaskets did you use? if you used anything other then the stock GM gaskets then that might be your problem

RelentleZ

iTrader: (4)

i had the same problem. it was as simple as having two of my spark plug wires reversed.

SprFly99TA

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar problem with my car after my header install and it progressively got worse, and even starting throwing random misfire codes due to how lean it was running. I took the car to get tuned because I was sick of trying to find out what was wrong with it. The tune got the car running normal again....not to mention gave me huge gains in hp and tq. I also had another problem, in that when the tunes were put in and the car would run normal, it would soon go back to ideling like crap again...and it turned out to be my mass air flow sensor had shorted out. The tune ended up costing me $1100 ...but that was because it took him a while to find out why it kept on going back to running like crap.

Bombguy99z28

Just narrow down the mechanical stuff first. If the car is running lean, there is a reason. If someone is close to you with scanning software have them scan it. If the O2's don't oscilate at all, a steady signal, it means the wires / sensor is faulty, might be a wiring problem to check (I've seen miswired O2 extensions from the factory, check those). If it oscilates for a while, then stops long enough to toass a code thats a problem, might have gotten dropped, gotten something on it, or gotten tired (or it could be a loose wire in your splice). Replace the O2. If the O2s oscilate fine (I doubt they will), check the fuel trims. If its lean/rich beyond tolerances, unplug the MAF. If the lean/rich condition goes away the MAF needs to be cleaned/replaced or the MAF table needs to be seriously rescaled. If it is still rich/lean with the MAF unplugged and the O2s are oscilating then its something else entirely because you shouldn't have a reason to alter the base fuel table.

Hope that helps.