LeddySS98

I'm pulling out my stock HU/12 disk and replacing it with Premier's P8MP... I've got the new HU out of the way. I already have a MTX stealth box W/ 10W3v2 powered by a 1000Watt 2 channel Kenwood amp... So the new HU and the Bass are already taken care of...

NOW THEN... I need a little help/advice with what to do with the speakers in between... After tons of searching I've found Inifity to be a pretty safe bet. So with that said onto my setup.

Should I get Infinity Door speakers and new tweeters powered with the new Premier HU, and power the stock 4 rear speakers with the monsoon amp... "IF" I go this route am I limited with going with the reference series... or will Premiers' HU be able to power the Kappa or Perfect series?

OR

I just scrap the entire monsoon system, put in 8 new speakers with a supporting Amp to go with... At that point I'd either go with the kappa's or perfects... but what kind of Amp specs would I need to be looking at, at that point?

Your thoughts?

ryant430

You'd be much happier with just swapping out the whole monsoon setup. Just run the infinity perfect series and a new amp. I would recommend the follow amp-

Infinity Reference 5761a its a 6 channel amp with 2 sub outputs that would be great for your infinity perfect series speakers. plus it looks to be small enough that it will still fit perfect where the stock monsoon amp was placed. There are other amp choices but in my mind if your going to go with infinity speakers then go with the amp also. I would recommend MTX if the infinity doesn't suit you.

ALPINE

I'm with ryant.. just toss the entire stock system. Keep it somplace safe for future trade in or whatever. But, if you like Infinity the 5761 is a good choice. You'll know why we say scrap the stock system when you hear your ride with an aftermarket head, and seperately amped componets and subs. The difference is night and day..
-JC

LeddySS98

I kinda guessed that going with plan B would sound better, but it was also the pricier route... but if the sound difference will just be that much better... Then what choice do I have = )

The "6 channel amp with 2 sub outputs" your recommending... Where I already have the sub powered by the Kenwood Amp what would I have the 2 sub outputs going to?

New HU, Amp, and speakers... is there anything else I need to get or will I finally be done?

ALPINE

Nothing major, just little things like the amp wiring kit.

LeddySS98

It's my undersanding that the infinity perfect series require A LOT of fabbing to get to fit... Not too mention they are VERY pricey... I'm thinking more about the Kappa series... Thoughts on the Kappas?

Next this 6 channel Amp with the 2 sub outputs... Is it 6 channels for speakers PLUS 2 outputs for the sub... OR is it 6 channel... 4 for speakers 2 for Sub?

As for putting the Infinity Amp where the stocker is... Is that with or without the spare and jack removeved?

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

Have you looked on ebay?

LeddySS98

I was planning on getting everything through ebay... I saw the perfects on infinity's site for 500+.... I see ebay has them for 220...

But the question is will the component speakers fit in my doors?

LeddySS98

Alright guys, I still need to figure out a couple more things...

1. "IF" I put the Kappa Perfects' in the front doors... will that use 4 channels off the amp, or are the tweeters getting their signal from the door speakers since they are component speakers?

2. Kappa Perfects in the door, Kappa's in the back... what size of kappa's do I use to put in place of the 4 inchers?

3. Since all the speakers are being power'd by the amp... is it foolish on my part to by the expensive Premier HU I"m looking at, or does it still play a part in sound quality?

4. It has'nt been mentioned yet... Dynomat sheets in the doors?

Thanks guys.

Punk0Rama

1. assuming you do buy the component set, this is only two channels as the set will come with a passive crossover that will divide frequencies and power for you.

2. my recommendation is to do only the speakers in the doors. leave the ones out of the rear and leave the 4"ers alone. focus on the imaging of your setup. absolute phasing is the key to quality sound and multiple speakers will throw off your entire sound stage.

3. the HU is an important part in overall sound quality. nice high voltage preouts generally leads to less distortion, quality signal to noise ratio does the same, DTC (digital time correction) helps correct pathlength differences, and some form of an equalizer is very handy as well (the more bands the better)

4. dynamat is one option, but consider secondskin damplifier (www.secondskinaudio.com) equal quality, lower price.

hope that helps you out!

LeddySS98

I was looking at the other brands other than dynomat... sorry for the misleading post on that, but thanks for the site info...

Door speakers and tweets only huh? Well that would'nt require a 6 channel amp at that point =) Any more thoughts on just the speaker tweeter combo? "IF" I did go that route... could I just bridge the 1000 watt 2 channel Amp I now have pushing the sub?

Punk0Rama

you would only need a 2 channel
mount the tweeter in the sails, try and get the mids as much on axis as possible (consider mounting high in the kicks).
your current 2 channel is fine for the subs. you would need a different one for your front stage.

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

If you are going to look for excellent sound quality and soundstage, you probably don't want to use the door panels to mount your mids in. You want to put them in a location where their pathlength differences are most equal. A speaker's pathlength is the distance between it, and your ear. You want the distance between your right speaker and your right ear to be as close as possible as the distance between your left speaker, and your left ear. This means mounting your speakers in the kick panels. Don't believe it? measure the pathlength differences between the door locations and the kicks using a piece of string. There are two ways to go anout putting kicks in an F-body, either buy some q-logic pre-made kickpanels (not sure if the clutch pedal will clear though), OR you cam make your own, as I did here.

Punk0Rama

that would be why i said "high in the kicks" rather than in the doors not sure if you misread what i typed....
if you do the route of kickpanels, consider drilling small holes in the back of the kickpanel and then covering this with a permeable foam. this will help get rid of some of the resonance and ugly peaks in frequency response that most people run into with a sealed kickpanel like the q-logic's.

98cobraklrws6

alright here is what i did and i would not change it for the world
i scrapped my whole monsoon
i bought a 4 channel amp
2 sets of 6.5" components
and forgot about the back plate speakers in the trunk the reason i did that is they will only distort your sound they are not largeenough to hearover theother two sets unless turned way up and at that point they distort i say buy a 4 channel and 2 sets of 6.5" components and what ever sub set up you want
btw u wont need dynomat if not running big subs trust me
pm me if you want any more help

LeddySS98

GREAT INFO here guys... I'm changing my options around again after all this great advice..

OKAY... Still going with the Premier HU P8MP... 2 sets of Kappa Perfects 6.5"... I want to put the front set on the floor in some kind of enclosure, and put the other pair in the back and leave the 4"er's out...Looking for enclousres that fit 98+ years, but not having a lot of luck so far...Is this something a stereo shop can fab up pretty easily? Do I need an enclosure for the rear speakers or is there enough room going with the OEM placement?

Going with an Infinity Amp... 4 channel for sure, HOWEVER I might pull out the Kenwood, and just put in a 6 channel Infinity amp(REF5761A)

IF I were to upgrade my Sub as well... I have a JL audio 10Wv2 right now Can I do better going with a 10" Infinity or JBL sub? If so which one?

1 - Premier P8MP $280
2 - Kappa Perfects 6.1 $330
1 - 7541A 4 channel Amp $136
OR
1 - 5761A 6 Channel Amp $181