Electric impact wrench questions
11-06-2005, 11:12 PM
#1
Electric impact wrench questions I was looking at purchasing an impact wrench to speed up repairs when working on my vehicles. I don't have a large enough air compressor to run an air impact wrench, and I can never keep a battery charged/the battery is dead when I want to use a cordless, so that leaves me looking for an electric impact wrench.
1: How much torque do I need? Keeping in mind I might use it on the engine, will use it on the lugnuts, shocks and struts of my vehicles. (The struts required 140f/lbs of torque so I assume I need greater that 140 f/lbs to break the nut free.)
2: In the other impact wrench threads, I hear the crank bolt is hard to remove. What are the torque specs on the bolt?
3: What is the smallest torque that you have used to remove that bolt?
4: I was looking at a Rigid wrench that the box said 230 f/lbs and there were stickers on the wrench stating 450 deliverable pounds of torque. So is "deliverable torque" or "Max Torque" the rating going forward and reverse added together?
5: Some of the ones that I was looking at were a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric for 79.99 240# 2400bpm, a Makita 149.99 217# 2000bpm, Ridgid R6300 for 179.99 "450 Max #" 2440 bpm, or a craftsman 159.99 with 345# and ?bpm (It looks a lot like a Dewalt DW292 both made in Mexico) What would be a good one to go with?
Thanks in advance for your replies,
Chris
1: How much torque do I need? Keeping in mind I might use it on the engine, will use it on the lugnuts, shocks and struts of my vehicles. (The struts required 140f/lbs of torque so I assume I need greater that 140 f/lbs to break the nut free.)
2: In the other impact wrench threads, I hear the crank bolt is hard to remove. What are the torque specs on the bolt?
3: What is the smallest torque that you have used to remove that bolt?
4: I was looking at a Rigid wrench that the box said 230 f/lbs and there were stickers on the wrench stating 450 deliverable pounds of torque. So is "deliverable torque" or "Max Torque" the rating going forward and reverse added together?
5: Some of the ones that I was looking at were a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric for 79.99 240# 2400bpm, a Makita 149.99 217# 2000bpm, Ridgid R6300 for 179.99 "450 Max #" 2440 bpm, or a craftsman 159.99 with 345# and ?bpm (It looks a lot like a Dewalt DW292 both made in Mexico) What would be a good one to go with?
Thanks in advance for your replies,
Chris
11-09-2005, 12:21 AM
#2
Upon more doing more research, I am leaning towards a Milwaukee. It is made in the USA, and has a 5 year warranty. It has 300 ft/lbs torque and 1800 rpm with 2600 impacts per minute. They have 2 different models.
1) 9071-20 1/2 in. Impact Wrench with Rocker Switch and Friction Ring Socket Retention
2) 9070-20 1/2 in. Impact Wrench with Rocker Switch and Detent Pin Socket Retention
Is the detent pin better than the friction ring? What would happen if you put a regular socket on the one with a detent pin? Would you be able to get it off?
Anyone have any experiance with this? Or any suggestions?
Thanks,
Chris
1) 9071-20 1/2 in. Impact Wrench with Rocker Switch and Friction Ring Socket Retention
2) 9070-20 1/2 in. Impact Wrench with Rocker Switch and Detent Pin Socket Retention
Is the detent pin better than the friction ring? What would happen if you put a regular socket on the one with a detent pin? Would you be able to get it off?
Anyone have any experiance with this? Or any suggestions?
Thanks,
Chris
11-09-2005, 07:51 AM
#3
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If I were going to buy a new electric impact, it would probably be the Milwaukee that you are considering. Most impacts have teh detent ring... just make sure that you use impact sockets on your impact wrenches and NOT the chrome hand sockets. Do a search on this nd you will come up with all the "whys."
11-09-2005, 11:42 AM
#4
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Before you give up on air powered impact wrenches, in my opinion an impact wrench is the most air-efficient tool out there. In order from least air used to most air used I would say it goes impact wrench, air hammer, air orbital sander, air ratchet, then (sand blaster, cut off tool, large die grinder).
Even a very small compressor can keep up with an impact because the actual air usage is in short bursts. Taking off a wheel is maybe 15 seconds of air, a 10 gallon tank and 125 psi will not fall below 90 doing that. The reason I suggest this is because you can get some huge capacity impact wrenches for good prices.
Even a very small compressor can keep up with an impact because the actual air usage is in short bursts. Taking off a wheel is maybe 15 seconds of air, a 10 gallon tank and 125 psi will not fall below 90 doing that. The reason I suggest this is because you can get some huge capacity impact wrenches for good prices.
11-09-2005, 02:51 PM
#5
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I would go air also.
Even my POS $230 Craftmans 33 gallon air compressor will run my HB 600ft lb impact gun for a long long time before coming on. My air ratchet will run the compressor down pretty quick in comparison.
I picked up the HB unit for $69 on sale, oil it every use and its been flawless for me. I've used it quite a bit, did the entire front/rear suspension on my Rx7, trans, suspension on the C5, complete front end on a Corsica(don't ask), and a bunch of other moderate sized jobs.
230ft lbs might sound like alot but I've had some hard suspension bolts that took more than that to get them off.
If you find everything on sale I bet you could sneak away just under $320 when Sears has a sale, can't imagine the electric unit is going to be much cheaper.
Plus you now have a air compressor capable of running other air tools
Even my POS $230 Craftmans 33 gallon air compressor will run my HB 600ft lb impact gun for a long long time before coming on. My air ratchet will run the compressor down pretty quick in comparison.
I picked up the HB unit for $69 on sale, oil it every use and its been flawless for me. I've used it quite a bit, did the entire front/rear suspension on my Rx7, trans, suspension on the C5, complete front end on a Corsica(don't ask), and a bunch of other moderate sized jobs.
230ft lbs might sound like alot but I've had some hard suspension bolts that took more than that to get them off.
If you find everything on sale I bet you could sneak away just under $320 when Sears has a sale, can't imagine the electric unit is going to be much cheaper.
Plus you now have a air compressor capable of running other air tools
11-16-2005, 01:42 PM
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I have a milwaukee 9079 18V 1/2" electric impact, and love it. Keeping batts charged isn't all that hard, just get into the habit of throwing them on the charger every time you close up shop for the day.
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11-16-2005, 09:46 PM
#8
Originally Posted by prince xizor
Is the detent pin better than the friction ring? What would happen if you put a regular socket on the one with a detent pin? Would you be able to get it off?
Thanks to all of those who have replied,
Chris
01-05-2006, 10:08 PM
#12
I am still debating on which impact wrench to go with.
1. http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...entProd=281157
This one has a detent pin
2. http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...entProd=281157
This one has a friction ring.
Also has anyone ordered from absolutehome, toolking, or northertool?
1. http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...entProd=281157
This one has a detent pin
2. http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...entProd=281157
This one has a friction ring.
Also has anyone ordered from absolutehome, toolking, or northertool?
01-06-2006, 12:02 AM
#13
TECH Veteran
Well, Northern Tool is a sponsor here 
I found an article that might help: http://www.agweb.com/news_printer.asp?articleID=102661
('hog ring' = 'friction ring')
I found an article that might help: http://www.agweb.com/news_printer.asp?articleID=102661
('hog ring' = 'friction ring')
The square business end of an impact wrench is called the anvil. Anvils come not only in different sizes (1/4", 3/8", ½", ¾") but in different designs.
Ball detent anvils use small spring-loaded ***** to put pressure on sockets and hold them on the anvil. Pin detent anvils have spring-loaded pins that engage holes in the sides of sockets.
Hog ring anvils use spring-steel rings in a groove at the tip of the anvil to apply pressure and hold sockets in place. Combination anvils have both hog ring and pin detents for positive socket retention.
Ball detent and hog ring anvils allow installation and removal of sockets with a sharp push or tug. Pin detent anvils must be manually disengaged with a small screwdriver or pin.
Pin detent anvils are preferred and often required when working above the ground, where a socket could fall off and strike someone below.
Pin detent and ball detent anvils may be slightly less durable than hog ring anvils because the holes drilled for their pin or ball mechanisms inevitably weaken the anvil over extended use.
Ball detent anvils use small spring-loaded ***** to put pressure on sockets and hold them on the anvil. Pin detent anvils have spring-loaded pins that engage holes in the sides of sockets.
Hog ring anvils use spring-steel rings in a groove at the tip of the anvil to apply pressure and hold sockets in place. Combination anvils have both hog ring and pin detents for positive socket retention.
Ball detent and hog ring anvils allow installation and removal of sockets with a sharp push or tug. Pin detent anvils must be manually disengaged with a small screwdriver or pin.
Pin detent anvils are preferred and often required when working above the ground, where a socket could fall off and strike someone below.
Pin detent and ball detent anvils may be slightly less durable than hog ring anvils because the holes drilled for their pin or ball mechanisms inevitably weaken the anvil over extended use.
