A simple mod guide for beginners – what to do first
11-11-2005, 03:13 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
A simple mod guide for beginners – what to do first A simple mod guide for beginners – what to do first
So you’ve bought an Fbody, but it’s still not enough. Well it’s time to start modding then isn’t it!
First off, what do you want from the car?
-Drag
-Circuit
-Street
-or a combination?
What you decide upon should dictate which mods to do and in which order. Remember be realistic with your goals and you’ll end up with the car you want.
This is a simple guide for making a faster street car which will see some ¼ mile action. Of course there are many variations and alternatives (too many to cover in this post). However following this guide will make your car faster, more fun and sound better. And hopefully help avoid wasting time and money on mods which are not needed and show little results.
1. Ok then your first mod. This is always open to debate, however I see two options as the only sensible choices. We’ll start with the cheaper one.
LID – quite simply replace it with an after market one. “What is a lid?” I hear you say. Well it is basically what it says - it’s a lid! The top of the air intake box. After market ones are smoother inside and do not have the factory sound baffles.
Why? – It’s fairly cheep (~$95 new) and will improve throttle response and increase BHP.
Which one? – Any, a lid is a lid. Some fit better and some look better but that’s about it.
-MTI
-SLP
-TSP
-Whisper
To name a few. Check out the sponsors’ on the left --->
The stock paper filter is fine up to about 500bhp and will filter better than any of the foam or cotton weave ones. So there is no need to get an after market filter if you don’t want to. If you do, then you might see a very small gain. But for the cost of a K&N filter the $/HP ratio is not too great.
2. Mod number two.
EXHAUST – Either as a catback or combined with headers and new mid pipe. Let your wallet decide.
Why? – Increase BHP and throttle response and still represents good value for money in the $/HP game. Also an exhaust has the GRIN factor, there is as much justification for getting one for the sound alone.
Which one? – Basically any. But remember a freer flowing exhaust will show more potential once HP levels start to get serious. If you plan on keeping the car then stainless steel is worth considering. There are lots of choices, however these seem popular:
-SLP Loudmouth
-Hooker Aero chamber
-GMMG
-Magnaflow
-TSP Rumbler
-Stainless Works chambered exhaust
For sound clips why not try www.ls1sounds.com
True duals always seem to hold an allure. There are several kits out there, many dump before the axel so they will be very LOUD, you have been warned. Custom kits can be made by exhaust shops. However if you’re going to the trouble of duals, you might as well do the headers at the same time.
3. For the AUTO guys only
STALL – This is often an over looked mod, but can be worth quite a bit at the drag strip.
Why? – It allows you to hold the car with the foot brake at higher rpms. This means you can launch the car better improving ET’s. It can also improve in gear response as well.
Which one? – This is a very big debate. Be realistic here, as a stall to inclined for track use will just be a pain on the road. Speak to the sponsors and other members here and see what they are running. Makes include:
-Yank
-Fuddle
-TCI
4. Now we’re talking.
HEADERS & MID PIPE – These are the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust that goes between them and the rest of the system.
Why? – The stock manifolds are cheap mass produced items. They do not flow particularly well and do not promote scavenging. So aftermarket Long Tube headers will increase BHP and once again throttle response. The stock mid pipe is also very restrictive along with the stock CATS. Basically they need replacing.
Which one? – There are 3 main types of aftermarket header. Shorties, mids and long tubes. Unless you have a specific reason for the shorties or mids. Get the long tubes. They all offer similar gains, but the more you spend the greater potential they have once you start getting serious about your mods. Once again stainless steel is worth considering, if not that then coated is an almost must. Brands that seem to be well respected are:
-Pacesetters
-Jet Hot
-Hooker
-QTP
-Kooks
-Stainless Works
There are many others however, so a little SEARCHING and research will go a long way.
The mid pipe is in many ways more of a complex choice. If you are running an off the shelf catback you’ll be wanting a replacement Y pipe. 2.5” diameter will be fine for most mild setups and some people have seen very impressive numbers, however it’s flow rate is a little restrictive for a 5.7 litre V8. A 3” Y pipe is probably a better bet and will be fine with up to 400-450bhp. After that you are onto 4” Y pipes, these are very bulky and can have serious ground clearance issues. Now to the CATS, if you like you can remove them and run a OR/Y, or Off Road Y pipe. Remember this is illegal for road use, so only get one at your own risk. Catted Y pipes are available from most of the headers makers as well as a few others. They will cost a bit more but they will keep you legal. Normally the removal of CATS will see some HP gains, but they are likely to be minimal on most setups. There are some free flowing high performance CATS that will have next to no effect on HP, so they are certainly worth considering.
If you decided on duals then you’ll be wanting either a H pipe or an X pipe. Both basically do the same thing. The X should offer a little more high rpm HP and the H a little more low rpm torque. They also have a slight difference in sound between them. And yes you can still run CATS with a dual setup.
5. Now comes decision time. Either try and get more BHP from the engine, or improve the rest of the car? Remember deployable HP is often more important than dyno numbers.
FINAL DRIVE GEARS – These are the gears in the rear axel. The higher the number the faster the car will accelerate, in simple terms. However maximum speed in gear will be reduced, so cruising MPG will usually drop, and interior noise may increase, because you will running higher rpms.
Stock ratios:
Automatics 2.73:1
Optional automatic 3.23:1
Manuals 3.42:1
Why? – Because they should knock up to 0.5 second off of your ¼ mile ET.
Which one? – There are lots of makes, most are high quality but some are more renown for being noisier than others. Check with the sponsors for available brands.
3.73:1 and 4.10:1 seem to be fairly well accepted. Especially with the manual transmission cars. Remember with an auto you only have 4 gears, so a set of 4.10’s will severely increase your cruising RPM.
N.B. There is one issue with gears. And that’s the weak 10 bolt rear axle. If you continue to mod – it will break and need replacing with a stronger alternative. At which point the gears you bought for the 10 bolt are redundant. If you think a stronger rear axle is in your future maybe stick with the stock gears until then.
6. This is for the Pre 2001 cars only.
INTAKE MANIFOLD – From 1998 – 2000 the Fbody used the LS1 style intake manifold, from 2001-2002 the LS6 type manifold was used.
Why? – The LS1 style intake is quite restrictive in comparison to the LS6, by swapping it over you will see gains in BHP and better throttle response. If you already have an LS6 style intake manifold then there is no real reason to change it yet.
Which one? – There are many aftermarket intake manifolds. However for the cost the LS6 style one probably represents the best value for money. They can be bought new or seconds hand. GM Performance and SLP both offer it with the EGR fitment so it can be a direct swap over. Some of the other aftermarket intake manifolds will require a larger TB and other supporting mods. There really is little point in going this far unless you are doing more serious mods such as forced induction or a more aggressive cam and better flowing heads. They will produce gains on a lesser modified engine but the $/HP ratio will be far lower.
7. More air in = more BHP
THROTTLE BODY – Now you have improved the rest of the induction system and the exhaust system it is worth looking at the TB. The stock unit is not too bad, but as always improvements can be made. You have two choices:
-New bigger TB
-Ported stock one
Why? In theory a bigger TB should help, however they are quite expensive and will often show only minor gains on a still mildly modified engine. Also there have been reports of people having trouble with some of them. The better bet for most is a ported stock TB, these will show gains in HP and most importantly have a dramatic affect on throttle response. Often the throttle response gain will be better than a stock larger aftermarket TB although the HP gains will probably be similar. But the price will be a lot more wallet friendly.
Which one? Well you can do it yourself or there are several people who will do it for you. Check the sponsors and have a SEARCH around the different forums.
11-11-2005, 03:14 PM
#2
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
8. By now you will have made a massive improvement in engine BHP and also how that power is transmitted to the rear wheels.
TUNE – This is often the most over looked modification. However it is one of the most crucial. You can have a tune at anytime, including stock. However it is often worth doing it after a series of mods, especially if no more mods are planned in the immediate future.
Why? - As it will yield extra HP, improve driveability, potentially improve MPG and ensure that everything is working and is safe.
How? – There are many options in terms of handheld tuners and chips. These all ‘can’ work, but are by no means the best option. Proper computer software is the best option combined with a rolling road (often called a ‘dyno’). This way all variables can be monitored, altered and maximised. Many dyno shops will already have tuning software, however they are available to buy and are not stupid money. Plus they can then be utilised in the future if more modifications are performed.
9. By this time you car will be a totally different beast on the road. So other ‘supporting’ modifications should really be looked at. The stock brakes and suspension are pretty good, but they where only designed to handle less horse power. Upgrades in these areas can be done at anytime and will only ever be a benefit.
Shock tower braces and control arms will all help. As will safety devices like driveshaft hoops which are often mandatory at many ¼ mile drag strips.
In addition different wheels and tyres such as DR’s (drag radials) or Street ET’s can be used. Both will improve grip and lower ET’s however both will apply more stress on the drive train and probably put you one step closer to needing a stronger rear axle.
There are also lots of additional mods which may improve the car as a whole but will not necessarily yield any BHP or improved ET’s. These would include shifters for the manual guys and CAGS override to prevent the skip shift activating. Along with transmission coolers for the automatics and additional dials and gages to monitor fuel pressure, air intake/oil/coolant temps and so on.
Things to avoid, or at least to research first:
FREE MODS – There are plenty of these for the Fbody. Some are worth while, most probably aren’t. People often claim “well every bit helps”. But does it?
-TB bypass
-!AIR
-!EGR
-De-screening the MAF
And several of the others will be unlikely to produce much or any additioanl HP. There are other reasons people do them however. So do a search and check it out if you’re interested. However leaving them be will not be any major cause of alarm.
MAF - The stock MAF will be fine for most people and does not need replacing or anything doing to it. 500bhp should be no problem for it. Replacement MAF’s are not cheep and can cause problems. Only go down this route if you know what you are doing.
SMOOTH BELLOWS – Not really going to affect anything. The principle behind it may be sound, but in all reality talking you shoes off before getting in the car will likely have the same effect on performance. If you want to do it, then the ‘Fernco mod’ is an option, or just buy some ducting (silicon or flexi-tube) and do it yourself for only a fraction of the price.
CUT-OUTS – These are a great cheap way of by-passing the stock exhaust and will see some good gains in HP and a lot more in noise. However, if you buy a good catback and do the headers & mid pipe the gains will then be minimal, maybe even as low as 1-2HP. You then also have the issue with possible leaks and restricted ground clearance. If you plan on any exhaust mods give a second though to buying cuts-outs.
CLIFF NOTES:
1. Lid
2. Catback exhaust
3. Stall (auto only)
4. Headers & Mid pipe
5. Rear gears (optional)
6. Intake manifold (pre 01 cars)
7. Ported Throttle body
8. Tune
TUNE – This is often the most over looked modification. However it is one of the most crucial. You can have a tune at anytime, including stock. However it is often worth doing it after a series of mods, especially if no more mods are planned in the immediate future.
Why? - As it will yield extra HP, improve driveability, potentially improve MPG and ensure that everything is working and is safe.
How? – There are many options in terms of handheld tuners and chips. These all ‘can’ work, but are by no means the best option. Proper computer software is the best option combined with a rolling road (often called a ‘dyno’). This way all variables can be monitored, altered and maximised. Many dyno shops will already have tuning software, however they are available to buy and are not stupid money. Plus they can then be utilised in the future if more modifications are performed.
9. By this time you car will be a totally different beast on the road. So other ‘supporting’ modifications should really be looked at. The stock brakes and suspension are pretty good, but they where only designed to handle less horse power. Upgrades in these areas can be done at anytime and will only ever be a benefit.
Shock tower braces and control arms will all help. As will safety devices like driveshaft hoops which are often mandatory at many ¼ mile drag strips.
In addition different wheels and tyres such as DR’s (drag radials) or Street ET’s can be used. Both will improve grip and lower ET’s however both will apply more stress on the drive train and probably put you one step closer to needing a stronger rear axle.
There are also lots of additional mods which may improve the car as a whole but will not necessarily yield any BHP or improved ET’s. These would include shifters for the manual guys and CAGS override to prevent the skip shift activating. Along with transmission coolers for the automatics and additional dials and gages to monitor fuel pressure, air intake/oil/coolant temps and so on.
Things to avoid, or at least to research first:
FREE MODS – There are plenty of these for the Fbody. Some are worth while, most probably aren’t. People often claim “well every bit helps”. But does it?
-TB bypass
-!AIR
-!EGR
-De-screening the MAF
And several of the others will be unlikely to produce much or any additioanl HP. There are other reasons people do them however. So do a search and check it out if you’re interested. However leaving them be will not be any major cause of alarm.
MAF - The stock MAF will be fine for most people and does not need replacing or anything doing to it. 500bhp should be no problem for it. Replacement MAF’s are not cheep and can cause problems. Only go down this route if you know what you are doing.
SMOOTH BELLOWS – Not really going to affect anything. The principle behind it may be sound, but in all reality talking you shoes off before getting in the car will likely have the same effect on performance. If you want to do it, then the ‘Fernco mod’ is an option, or just buy some ducting (silicon or flexi-tube) and do it yourself for only a fraction of the price.
CUT-OUTS – These are a great cheap way of by-passing the stock exhaust and will see some good gains in HP and a lot more in noise. However, if you buy a good catback and do the headers & mid pipe the gains will then be minimal, maybe even as low as 1-2HP. You then also have the issue with possible leaks and restricted ground clearance. If you plan on any exhaust mods give a second though to buying cuts-outs.
CLIFF NOTES:
1. Lid
2. Catback exhaust
3. Stall (auto only)
4. Headers & Mid pipe
5. Rear gears (optional)
6. Intake manifold (pre 01 cars)
7. Ported Throttle body
8. Tune
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11-11-2005, 06:11 PM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Live Oak, FL - in the woods where the creatures lurk.
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-TB bypass
I agree, minimal.
-!AIR
-!EGR
These two mods are done to get rid of clutter in the engine bay and facilitate easier plug changes. No performance gain I'm aware of.
-De-screening the MAF
Folks with '98s seem to get away with this a little better. IMO a dumb mod for later years, esp. 2000+ vehicles.
All in all, well written, good writeup for newbies.
I agree, minimal.
-!AIR
-!EGR
These two mods are done to get rid of clutter in the engine bay and facilitate easier plug changes. No performance gain I'm aware of.
-De-screening the MAF
Folks with '98s seem to get away with this a little better. IMO a dumb mod for later years, esp. 2000+ vehicles.
All in all, well written, good writeup for newbies.
11-12-2005, 06:39 AM
#14
Staging Lane
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Knox-Vegas
Posts: 56
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Thanks, for low tech newbies that want to learn, (ooh ooh me, pick me) stuff like this is great --- especially since I'm modding my DD...
Sounds like we'll need yet another F-Body for the Jaberwaki "So You Want To Be Fast" drag car...don't you hate when that happens...
Sounds like we'll need yet another F-Body for the Jaberwaki "So You Want To Be Fast" drag car...don't you hate when that happens...
11-12-2005, 02:37 PM
#16
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by Z-Vert
Sounds like we'll need yet another F-Body for the Jaberwaki "So You Want To Be Fast" drag car...don't you hate when that happens...
2 fbodys > 1 fbody
Thats why i have 2.
