CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Sounds kind of like the sewing machine from the rockers, but this is coming from the trans. Fluid is level, not burnt and pretty fresh. It seems to be quieter while cold, then as it gets up to temp is louder. WTF? Help please.

BTW, this is in my TH350.

Charlie

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

A cracked flexplate usually makes a ticking noise...

Not saying that's your problem - just something to check

-Jay-

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Damn, that would suck. I was aware ppl had some issues with that, so I made sure to inspect this puppy thoroughly when installing. Where do most of these cracks occur? Thanks.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

Cracks start at either the crank bolt holes or verter attachment holes and travel radially. Problem is you would probably have to unbolt verter from flexplate and pull it back to be able to see entire face of flexplate

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Well, if thats the only answer and only thing research shows, then pull it I will. Pretty easy with the TH350 and an 8" TC

It is louder in gear than P/N.

It is louder warm temp than cold.

It is rythmatic, increases and decreases IAW rpms.

It sounds almost like a card in bicycle spoke, except at much faster rpm and slightly higher pitch.

I hope its not the flexplate in a way, that would suck at $200 a pop. But cheaper than other possibilities I am sure.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

Flexplate. Is it a 01 or 02? They had a weaker plate and its becoming a known problem.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

TH350 is Rossler.

Flexplate and TC are ATI (same looking flexplate as TCI and I have not sanded off the powdercoating at the mounting points yet, found out about it after install, I'll see about checking the bolts tomorrow).

XMember is BMR with TA Relocation.

Shifter is B&M Pro-Ratchet


I heard something about the flexplates cracking, not sure wtf is up with that. I will hopefully be able to get under her tomorrow and check all the TC nuts and bolts to ensure they are still torqued.

Jimmy P

iTrader: (177)

My TH400 is making the same type of sound. I couldn't describe it as well as you could. Mine started doing it after about 50 miles of driving it. Now its always there, and does go up with rpms. I wouldn't realy describe mine as ticking, but deffinantly the sewing machine like rockers sound. It could almost be confused as an exaust leak, but I know its not that. Maybe John Kilgore will be able to give you ideas of what it can be..He is very helpfull and knowledgable about these type of trannys.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

Well, you should be OK flexplate -wise with the ATI unit. All of the cracking problems that I have seen are with the stock 4L60E flexplate.

Doesn't hurt to check though...

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Who is John K.? How do I get in touch with him? Thought about calling Carl Rossler, but I know it irritates me when I sell something and instantly the customer thinks you are at their beckon call 24/7. Customer Service means a lot to me, but for something like this, after the fact if you will, thats not what CS is about. Maybe after Thanksgiving I will call and hope they are not too busy.
Friday the shop will be open, so I can put her on a lift and check all the TC bolts and nuts, guess that will be first. Then drain, change filter, and fill'er up. Seems to drive just fine though. Weird.

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

Mine does it too. I think its the convertor bolts, they seem to be slightly touching the rear engine cover bolts when under a light load. I'm thinking about changing them out or either trying to tighten down the rear cover. Not sure about what to do yet.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I will be checking out the TC bolts tomorrow. I am sure mine are not touching the cover, the noise started after a few days. I am hoping it is as simple, and affordable as the bolts just needing to be retorqued, or worst case scenario have to pull the flexplate, sand off allt he powder coating at the bolt pads, and then reinstall. I am of full faith thats the problem, since there is no performance loss or anything odd with the fluid (smell, color etc). I guess this is more embarassing nuisance then anything... "hey man nice f*cking car...whats the hell is that ticking noise?" I'm mad at that!

Will be posting any findings tomorrow evening.

Charlie

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Checked and TC bolts were tight. Flexplate bolts were installed with locktite.

If you can imagine, it sounds similar to the clacking (for lack of better descriptive wording) that you'd get if you were barely rolling and put a car into Park, that "card in the spokes" sound. BTW, what is that noise when you place the trans in park while its rolling?

BOOSTEDTA

iTrader: (1)

i have a TH350 and am experiencing the same sound (just like a card in bicycle spokes)... however, my noise goes with vehicle speed, NOT engine rpm. when the car stops moving, so does the noise. i can be driving along at speed and give it WOT and the noise will ony increase with MPH. recently i just took the trans out because the car got stuck in 1st gear. my tranny builder replaced the governor on it so i will see if it still makes the clicking noise when i get it back in within the next couple days.

john kilgore

sometimes just removing the tc bolts and sliding the tc as far into the trans as you can and then hitting the fplate with a wrench. if it clunks it probably broke. a ring sound means it is probably good. good luck

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

I checked the convertor bolts and they were tight, but the flexplate bolts were loose. I tightened them up and put some loctite on them, and it seems to help.
If you didn't sand the paint off the flexplate then the bolts will come loose as soon as the paint gets hot and melts. So check them and then check 'em again after a long ride. I only drove one day when I started getting the clatter sound and sure nuff it was the flexplate bolts.
If those bolts break that flexplate has enough speed to come out and cut your car in half. Believe me, you don't want to be in there when it comes out.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Damn it. I wonder if there is enough room in there to get a slim wrench on them to check them before I go pulling the trans out again? It really shouldn't take that long, but if thats not it, would suck to spend 2.5 hrs pulling and installing again! Will see if I can find a slim wrench to fit in there today.

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

Try a long 15mm wrench, it should work. Try to back them out as far as you can and put some loctite on them with a q-tip and then tighten them back. They should hold then, just be sure and check them every now and then.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Well, unfortunately they were not loose. I originally locktite installed and torqued to 85lbs IIRC. Not even loose a bit, none.

Going over the course of events, I think I may have damaged something internal. I had to remove the nylon speedo gear, not a problem. Then I had to "press" on a reluctor wheel for the VSS signal, onto the tailshaft. I kind of didnt have a press for this particular operation, and was in a crunch....yes, I set the ring on the tailshaft and tapped it square, then using an extension bar and socket to apply even force, I hammered the ****** on Good news is the speedo works, bad news, this is about the same time the ticking sound started. It really hasnt gotten any worse, so I need to stop worrying about it I guess. I am damn positive I jacked it up during the hammering "field expedient press" of the reluctor ring.

So, what may I have damaged internally by being an impatient ***? And what kind of precautions should I take, other than not to hammer **** anymore?

Jimmy P

iTrader: (177)

From what I recall, the shop that built my th400 used the same method to press on the reluctor wheel. We brought the wheel to him and had him press it on while we waited and watched. I think if they did it like that, that wouldn't be a problem.