WhiteKnightZ28

iTrader: (5)

Well winter has hit, so now i need to start buying parts. My car ran a 13.9 (if you belive a G-Tech Pro) and i want to take a second off of that while still being able to drive it every day. so heres my plan of action, tell me if im totaly off-base.

3.73 rear
2500 rpm TC
Exhaust cutout
Lower controle arms
Shocks/springs
Ram air hood/ intake
BFG T/A Drag radials

So am i being way to optimistic?
Thanks

heymoej

iTrader: (67)

i ran a 13.6 stock,i put 4.10 gears & nittos,& then ran a 12.9.

FLA02TA

iTrader: (5)

Could go the spray route. I'd just replace the stock manifolds to the exhaust tips, because I drive my car far more often than I make passes at the track. The best part of daily driving, in my opinion, is the rumbles and sounds. I take the long way home from work.

Black Soul SS

wtf 13.9 thats bull my SS runs a 13.3 stock with the mods i have in my sig. u should be running about the same as me if not alot faster

FLA02TA

iTrader: (5)

I ran 13.89 my first pass with a lid and cat-back because my reaction time was .533

From my track experience, high 13's is about expected when you don't launch it too well.

TransLS1

Have you put the TC in yet or you are going to buy it? but i would get headers then a cut out would work if you didnt want to spend money on a cat-back. Get a Lid and a Tune and you should be about 12.8 - 12.6 i would say.

BlueSix

First do you have 3.23 gears or 2.73's?

Ax the 3.73's (i.e. keep the stock gears, a stalled car gains almost nothing with gears.)
get a 3500 stall (3800-4000 would be better)

Most everything else looks good. You don't need a ram air hood, just some sort of ram air setup, fast toys or super sucker. That should get you DEEP into the 12's.

BlueSix

Reaction time has nothing to do with ET.

I ran a 13.5 in my stock '02 with a 2.2 60'

dannyz

3500-4000 stall, 100 shot and drag radials will pretty much guarantee it.

WhiteKnightZ28

iTrader: (5)

Thanks guys... little info i should have given you. i've got the 3.23 rear, already have the cat back and hood, and was trying to stay away from spray if i can. But thanks for the info... im going to be working on it all winter so im sure my plans and budget will change many times before it hits the road in the spring.

luvmeZ28

iTrader: (3)

at least get a 3200+ stall

DrEvyl

iTrader: (5)

I think you are, and think you shouldn't believe the G-tech. Oh, and definitely go with a higher stall on the TC. 2500 isn't gonna do a lot for you.

WhiteKnightZ28

iTrader: (5)

OK, heres plan B:

3500 rpm TC
Drag radials
LT headers
LCA's/shocks/springs

Better?

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Yep, much better And as Bluesix already stated, reaction time has absolutely NOTHING to do with et AT ALL.

Go to the track man, **** on the gtech....get some "real" times

TNMuscle

go for a 3200 stall other than that lookin pretty good

BlueSix

When calibrated properly G-tech's are very good tuning devices.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

I'm sure that they are good to find out the difference after mods, etc, etc. But when it comes to knowing your actual, real world et and trap speed, it has been said many times that the track is the best bet

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

i'm puttin money on 12.40's

exstanger

iTrader: (4)

Mods in my sig would def. get you there. LT's, ORY, Magnaflow (most flow good but I love the sound of it) 3400/ 2.1-2.5 stall and some ET Streets (radial or bia ply). I also have a K&N fipk but a lid and good filter would work just as well.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Drag radials and a 3500+ stall. Personally though, I would practice with your current setup first to see what the car likes and doesn't like as far as launching. Make sure you get some subframe connectors as well as they will help the car to launch straight. I took off a full second but that was when I ran a 13.2 with a 2.0 60' on dayton daytonas with just a lid and catback. Practice practice practice.