nokeman

iTrader: (30)

i have full bolt-ons minus an underdrive pully. i will be getting a 232/236 cam and need to know what types of springs, lifters, etc. i will also need. money IS an option but not a huge deal. thanks!!

justin

TRU-2GM

iTrader: (6)

Im doing the same. with that cam probably dual springs and some kind of cam kit, springs/pushrods/retainers etc..im swapping double roller timing chain, ls6 oil pump, all the gaskets. not messing with lifters yet. and keeping stock heads. Using about the same cam you are running with ls6 heads. get springs for sure.

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

ok thanks. anybody else. any specific upgrades anybody swears by?

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

The only thing you NEED is a set of springs (retainers and seats if they are not beehive style springs) that can handle the lift that cam has. everything else is reusable. Some people will tell you you need this and that but thats all just the sprinkles on top.

tylerdj

iTrader: (31)

definately get some springs (not sure if you'd need double...don't know the specs of the cam), some hardened pushrods at the very least. Might get a ported oil pump and at least an LS2 timing chain.

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

Actually you should only need the cam, new valve springs, hardened pushrods, and a LS2 timing chain. Lifters are not necessarily required at all.

Don't forget all of your standard fluids and stuff: Coolant (Dex-Cool), Oil (I get extra oil for the first few hundred miles and then change again), Oil Filter, etc

Good idea/time to replace the oil pump as well (if you want too).

A good tune (not just a squeek by so the car will idle) can run you between $400-$700, in my shopping.

First Cam we paid full price ~$480.
Valve springs ~$150
Pushrods ~$110
LS2 Timing chain ~$35
Gasket kit ~$60
Bolts ~$10
Tuning ~$450

Our new one we went with:
Cam ~$180
Valve Spring Kit (Duals) $260
Ported LS6 Oil Pump $80 (second hand find, no miles)
Gasket kit $60
Tuning ?

You may want to consider the dual spring kits since they are becoming a real bargain when considering everything you get. We got the PRC kit, but I think now the Patriot Performance Gold kit is a little better deal (since you get the Super 7 locks)... Although with the PRC's we just went and got some extra stock locks for insurance.

Don't forget tools if you are doing it yourself. You will need a torque wrench rated to ~250 ft/lbs, a pulley puller, 5/16 dowel rods (to retain the lifters), valve spring tool, and your standard garage tools.

EDIT: I went and bought new ARP bolts, and don't forget an O-ring for the oil pump if you change it out. Also you may want to change the plugs (and wires if that is your kick) while doing the cam since it is a good time to do it.

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

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nokeman

iTrader: (30)

to the top

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

bump.......

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

bump..

LS1powerhouse02

iTrader: (9)

definately get springs (can't really tell you what kind b/c i dont know your lift), pushrods, LS2 timing chain, cam install kit (which comes with new gaskets), wooden dowel (do a search on wooden dowels and you will see what i'm talkin about, it will save your *** on the cam swap).....if you need more info on the dowels just pm me! Your oil pump should still be ok....unless you have some extra money and just wanna buy another one. You also might wanna go ahead and get an underdrive pulley if you have the funds....it will be easier to put it on now while you have the stock one off. And get a good tune.....remember...it's all in the tune so don't cheat yourself! Good luck!

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

ok thanks a lot. so i do need hardened pushrods? some people have been telling me i dont NEED them.

TRU-2GM

iTrader: (6)

stockers will work, some will leave them stock. If it was me i would replace them with some chromolys. You can get a kit that has the springs/retainters/locks/pushrods from the company you get the cam with most of the time.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

Well I look at it this way. the only time you bend a pushrod in an M6 is when you miss a shift and bang off the rev limiter real bad. Now throw in some hardened pushrods and do the same thing. now the thing that bends is the valve not the push rod. i've always had stock pushrods even when i had a 600+lift cam and i was an M6. the choice is yours. the only reason i could see running different pushrods is if you have milled heads and need shorter ones. but then again i was running heads milled .045 with stock pushrods.

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

IMHO, I disagree that the stockers will work. Any aggressive ramp rate cam will twist them like a paperclip. Some feel that GM intentionally made the pushrods the weak link in the valvetrain to keep the engine from spinning itself into more expensive/extensive damage on a mechanical over revving.

LS1powerhouse02

iTrader: (9)

I wouldn't just settle for stock pushrods....go ahead and buy some hardened pushrods...its better to be same than sorry!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

cam, springs, retainers, timing chain, pushrods ( LS2 is good, and relativly cheap.. and no hassles of shimming pump because of clearance problems ) all needed gaskets and fluids, new crank pulley bolt and seal, and do the underdrive pulley at the same time.. you already have it off.. perfect time to change it.


That's about all you need hardware wise. A tune is 100% needed, don't let people tell you it isn't. Unless you are going to a stock z06 cam or something like that.. the car could probably deal with that, but anything more, and a tune is needed.

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

great advise guys thanks alot!!

justin

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

anybody else???

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

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