extending the o2
12-18-2005, 11:50 AM
#3
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I opted to use actual prefabbed O2 extensions. Splicing the wires just seemed like a bad idea to me.
12-18-2005, 12:18 PM
#6
Splicing into them isn't very complicated either. Probally just take me an extra 2 minutes or so, but I was just wondering if the reliability over the prefabbed connectors are worth the extra money.
I have Pacesetter LT's, how long of an extension should I look at getting? Also, can anyone recommend a good sponser to buy a installation kit from? (metal gaskets, bolts, etc).
I have Pacesetter LT's, how long of an extension should I look at getting? Also, can anyone recommend a good sponser to buy a installation kit from? (metal gaskets, bolts, etc).
Last edited by BlutVonSchwachen; 12-18-2005 at 12:57 PM.
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12-18-2005, 10:48 PM
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Get the prefabbed o2 extensions. When you get into splicing wires it's just one more thing that you have to worry about. The cost of the o2 extensions are worth the peace of mind.
12-18-2005, 11:51 PM
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just finished installing hooker lts on my 01 z28 with 80,000 miles.
I resused the gaskets and bolts, but I did add lock washers
also to make the job easier I removed the coil packs, and valve covers, and steering shaft. (powdercoated the valve covers too)
if you remove the coil pack an easy trick to do that I did was:
passenger side coil pack rear mounting stud is a pain, huge pain in the *** to get in and out, so before install to make this process easier and quick.
I screwed the autostud back in the valve almost all the way down, then I took the coil pack and cut the rear mounting hole into a "U" shape, allowing me to slide the coil pack under the rear stud. Which now all i have to do is twist the rear stud a few times(loosen or tighten) saving my knuckles and time, for quicker install and removal of the coil pack.
also, everything is 10mm and 8mm.
if your removing the cats, ditch the air pump too!
I resused the gaskets and bolts, but I did add lock washers
also to make the job easier I removed the coil packs, and valve covers, and steering shaft. (powdercoated the valve covers too)
if you remove the coil pack an easy trick to do that I did was:
passenger side coil pack rear mounting stud is a pain, huge pain in the *** to get in and out, so before install to make this process easier and quick.
I screwed the autostud back in the valve almost all the way down, then I took the coil pack and cut the rear mounting hole into a "U" shape, allowing me to slide the coil pack under the rear stud. Which now all i have to do is twist the rear stud a few times(loosen or tighten) saving my knuckles and time, for quicker install and removal of the coil pack.
also, everything is 10mm and 8mm.
if your removing the cats, ditch the air pump too!
12-19-2005, 08:03 AM
#13
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Put the money you would have spent on extensions,
toward a set of Corvette rear O2 sensors. Your tune
will thank you for it.
Corvette Rear O2 Sensors:
Bosch 13111
Denso DEN 234-4087
toward a set of Corvette rear O2 sensors. Your tune
will thank you for it.
Corvette Rear O2 Sensors:
Bosch 13111
Denso DEN 234-4087
12-19-2005, 09:31 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
Put the money you would have spent on extensions,
toward a set of Corvette rear O2 sensors. Your tune
will thank you for it.
Corvette Rear O2 Sensors:
Bosch 13111
Denso DEN 234-4087
toward a set of Corvette rear O2 sensors. Your tune
will thank you for it.
Corvette Rear O2 Sensors:
Bosch 13111
Denso DEN 234-4087
I've never heard of that before! how does rear vette o2 sensor work well for front fbody o2 sensors?
12-19-2005, 11:43 AM
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Headers cool the exhaust gas more than stock
logs. The stock F-body O2s have wimpy heaters
because they count on the heat, being close-in.
'Vette rears have long cables, plug right up and
run more heater wattage, making for more reliable
readings and less false-fuel-trimming from being
too cold.
logs. The stock F-body O2s have wimpy heaters
because they count on the heat, being close-in.
'Vette rears have long cables, plug right up and
run more heater wattage, making for more reliable
readings and less false-fuel-trimming from being
too cold.
12-19-2005, 02:02 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
Headers cool the exhaust gas more than stock
logs. The stock F-body O2s have wimpy heaters
because they count on the heat, being close-in.
'Vette rears have long cables, plug right up and
run more heater wattage, making for more reliable
readings and less false-fuel-trimming from being
too cold.
logs. The stock F-body O2s have wimpy heaters
because they count on the heat, being close-in.
'Vette rears have long cables, plug right up and
run more heater wattage, making for more reliable
readings and less false-fuel-trimming from being
too cold.
so it is better for tuning (ls1 edit), and its a more accurate read for your fbody computer!
12-20-2005, 09:10 PM
#19
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
Put the money you would have spent on extensions,
toward a set of Corvette rear O2 sensors. Your tune
will thank you for it.
Corvette Rear O2 Sensors:
Bosch 13111
Denso DEN 234-4087
toward a set of Corvette rear O2 sensors. Your tune
will thank you for it.
Corvette Rear O2 Sensors:
Bosch 13111
Denso DEN 234-4087
So I gave me parts guy a call, $70 for one brand, $140 for the other...each. That's quite a lot more than extensions. Will the extra wattage really make a big enough difference to justify such pricing?
