EviLS1

iTrader: (8)

Everytime I try to search I just get a 'not responding' message. My forged ls6 should be in by new years and just wondering what you guys feel is the best way to break her in?

Var

iTrader: (1)

everyone's gonna say something different.
Here's what i would personally do


2 complete warm up cycles as you check for leaks, oil pressure,, strange noises etc.

After 2 COMPLETE warm ups(oil temp up to 200ºF and back down to ambient temperature), i would take the car and put it on a dyno and get it tuned. After the A/F and timing is sorted out you can just run it really hard on the dyno for about 10 miles accelerating and decelerating through the rev range. Then change the oil and you're ready to go.

EviLS1

iTrader: (8)

It will be swapped by Next Level Performance so im sure they'll do everything needed then, but as far as driving after wards... no higher than 3500 for 500 miles and no higher than 4200 up until 1,000?

Var

iTrader: (1)

Personally, after the inital break in i listed above, i'd drive it normally for about 200 miles(not race it). "Just Because" not cause you have to.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

As mentioned, everyone says something different. What I plan on doing is using dino oil, which is the same thing as conventional, I think, then do a couple warm up, cool down cycles in the garage, then put 300-500 miles on it(not going too hard on the motor), then throw it on the dyno for a tune.

01ArcticSS

iTrader: (1)

If you can get the search to work there's a thread with a link to a website about this...

The website is done by a guy that builds race engines for motorcycles and he explains the whole thing about how the crosshatch in the cylinders doing basically a "finish grind" on the rings and something about the first hour being the determining factor for the life of the engine. His method is warm up, a few light throttle runs, then cool down, then warm up some medium throttle runs, then cool down, then some full throttle runs. His point is that you want to "force" the rings out against the cylinder walls to "grind" them to "match" the cylinder and if you get that done your engine will make more power over its whole life.....

Or something like that.

You'll have to find it on the search....

Personally I don't know how the rings will get forced out "harder" against the cylinder wall at 5k rpm than they would at 2k rpm - the CR doesn't change, does it?

yak

iTrader: (15)

two complete heat cycles, keep it under 4k, then toss it on the dyno to make sure your Air fuel ratio and such are good. I would then beat it on the street for a couple hundred miles then get it tuned good.

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

This is a good question. My 408 will be installed in 2 weeks. I will have to do the same!

Quickin

Here's what I did after I picked mine up from Mike Norris:

After he dyno tuned it and did whatever else.

Drove it home on the Florida Turnpike and never stayed at one RPM for more than 3-4 minutes. Took it down to 40mph and than gradually up to about 100mph, than back down to about 65-70 for a few minutes...I repeated this the whole way home.

Than:
oil change at 150 miles (actually as soon as I got back to Lauderdale)

at 250, 500, 1,000, 1,500, 2,000 and 3,000 miles.

Regular non-synthetic oil. Than at 3,000 I used synthetic oil.

Doesn't burn much oil and seemed to work for me.

Do what Mike tells you, but I think after an engine is dyno tuned, its broken in. Rings are set. If after the dyno tune you're gonna be doing city driving (varying rpm's all the time) I think your car is ready to get on the hammer. I just didn't want to drive at one speed for 150+ miles on the highway with just 20 or so miles on it.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I'm glad I wasn't driving behind you

DavidNJ

Just think were we would be if race engines had a 1000 mile break in below 30 mph!

Quickin

It was pretty dead on the roads. My friends who drove me up there to pick it up were going crazy on the way back though.

Mike Norris

iTrader: (10)

Hey Guys,

Like mentioned a few times, there are several opinions on this for sure. I know what I suggest with our engines.

Now I get a lot of calls or questions when someone has us install an engine and my answer is always the same. Ask the person or company that built the engine. It is their piece and they should be able to recommend a process as well as what oil they feel comfortable with. If they say something along the lines of " I don't know" or "I don't care" or "whatever you feel like doing", then I suggest that you do not buy an engine from them.

I goes along the lines of "I bought these XXX heads, what cam does everyone suggest?" or "I ordered XXX cam, what should I expect?". You should always ask the head porter/builder what they recommend as it is their product and if they are knowledgeable enough, they can give you the best answer in most cases.

Hope this helps.

Mike Norris

777

iTrader: (21)

So Mike what do you suggest. haha

Mike Norris

iTrader: (10)

You just wanna make me cry, don't ya Later All.

777

iTrader: (21)

Steel Chicken

iTrader: (3)

I used to read his stuff all the time, I like his approach.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Quickin

Oh damn, I mis-read Evyls second post, I thought Mike was building it.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Erm...after a few heat cycles don't you need to get the heads, etc re-torqued before running it hard?

EviLS1

iTrader: (8)

I found a damn good deal on the motor (5k for a new forged h/c ls6) or he would have been. I'll call the guy who built it and see what he suggests.