blown 346

iTrader: (25)

I just had my 2000 SS fixed from having the crank bolt walk out on me. During the repair the blower had to be taken down so the new blower belt could be installed. On my way home everything seemed ok except for when I started my car. When I started it it didnt sound normal, the belt squeeled( which is new) and made a grinding noise.
Anyway once I got home I noiced the blower belt had snapped, I open the hood and come to find the tensioner pully ( the one that puts tension on the blower belt) has ground itself into my blower bracket causing it to seize and I believe breaking the belt. Could the belt have been to tight and cause this to happen? The tensioner pulley is screwed, it looks like it couldnt take the force of the belt and just gave way. The blower bracket and tensioner pulley seized together, almost welded. Does this seem feesable?
I am wondering what could have caused this so I can fix it from happening again. Anyone have any similar experiences?

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Well I have found in the past if the tensioner pulley is loosened up to much it will **** to the side and rub even when you tighten it up, after the belt has been tensioned. Has happened to me and makes the noise you decribed.
It is best just to loosen the pullye just ever so slight,and then tension the belt and torque it down realy good, to prevent if from cocking over to the side, which will keep it straight.

It sounds like the pulley never was tightend after the belt replacemnt, which would cause just what you are describing. I would say you would be fine to replace the pulley and belt and you would be fine.

LSs1Power

iTrader: (5)

I had the exact thing happend to me. It happend after we tightened the belt too much because of suspected belt slippage. When we started the car that noise came up and the engine died because the idler pulley got jammed in the bracket due to a bent idler pulley bolt.

I think the problem is mainly due to the weak bolts used by stock ATI setup. We also found two broken bolts on the crank pulley. You should check the crank pulley bolts too while u are at it.

Now i got the SDCE setup and grade A (High pressure bolts) or high quality bolts hoping it will fix the problem. The only downside is the waiting time to get the setup. It took almost 3-4 months to get everything from SDCE.

CRZYTRN-92Z28

Same deal here. On mine I actually was bending the bolt for the tensioner and had to use a larger one. Like said above, get a new belt and fix the tensioner and you should be fine.

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

To add to that I have also noticed that the large area washer on the front side of the tensioner-idler pulley is not the best and could stand to have a thicker on installed.

IMOP sence you have to replace the belt and the pulley I would bite the bullet and up grade to the 8 rib system. My 8 rib drive is working and holding great.

blown 346

iTrader: (25)

The bolt that holds thwe pulley in place is bent beyond belief. The crank pully bolts have already been upgraded once I threw more boost at the car. I also replaced the crank pulley and aded a ARP pin kit to insure it stays in place.