Fueling & Injection - I need a good in-tank fuel system for FI

I want the in-tank option to minimize fuel pump noise. I have read online here that a single 255L/hr with a Boost-A-Pump would support up to 700whp and a single 420L/hr by itself will easily support over 700whp. I know the 255L/hr will be small, so can a larger single pump be used the same way like the 420L/hr? Or should I look into a dual 255L/hr? If the 420L/hr will fit, I can use the BAP to get alittle more out of it, right? Of course, I plan to upgrade the feed lines to -8AN and use the factory fuel line as a return. I want to support over 800whp with an FI setup.

Thats why you do dual intank Walbro pumps with a Y fitting feeding the -8 line.Itll support mega hp with a fpr.

OK, now I need to know who has the dual pump setup. Did they do it themselves or did they purchase it from a shop?

Everybody does it themselves.Mighty Mouse and Nasty TA both have pics of their setups,do a search on them or dual walbros and u should find it.

Yeah but that only fits on the 98 metal tanks....

I am looking for 700RW and although Racetronix, Nasty Nate, and others tell me with my methanol, upgraded rails, FMFPR, and -6 line (using stock feed as return), and pump booster, and hotwire kit that I'll be fine with the 255... but to be honest I don't trust it. I bought all that stuff and it's going on the car now, but I think at your level for sure, (I'm getting close as well) that a different approach would be better than in-tank.

I'm going to sump a stock 98 metal tank. Besides, it's a bitch to drop the tank vs. working on pumps that mount outside... Nate makes a very nice tank also with the price being very reasonable. One of the guys in my club got one though and it took him a LONG time to get the tank...

I am looking for 700RW and although Racetronix, Nasty Nate, and others tell me with my methanol, upgraded rails, FMFPR, and -6 line (using stock feed as return), and pump booster, and hotwire kit that I'll be fine with the 255... but to be honest I don't trust it. I bought all that stuff and it's going on the car now, but I think at your level for sure, (I'm getting close as well) that a different approach would be better than in-tank.

I'm going to sump a stock 98 metal tank. Besides, it's a bitch to drop the tank vs. working on pumps that mount outside... Nate makes a very nice tank also with the price being very reasonable. One of the guys in my club got one though and it took him a LONG time to get the tank...

Perhaps you should take a look at a PnP DP in-tank system?
Please contact Lonnie's Performance listed on our web page for details.

I am looking for 700RW and although Racetronix, Nasty Nate, and others tell me with my methanol, upgraded rails, FMFPR, and -6 line (using stock feed as return), and pump booster, and hotwire kit that I'll be fine with the 255... but to be honest I don't trust it. I bought all that stuff and it's going on the car now, but I think at your level for sure, (I'm getting close as well) that a different approach would be better than in-tank.

I'm going to sump a stock 98 metal tank. Besides, it's a bitch to drop the tank vs. working on pumps that mount outside... Nate makes a very nice tank also with the price being very reasonable. One of the guys in my club got one though and it took him a LONG time to get the tank...
Thats why you cute the trap door in from the hatch.Piece a cake and the dual intanks will take all the power you want....and if 1 pump fails the other pumps is still there.

The tank should be removed and cleaned thoroughly before installing a new pump.

RT, thanks but...
The 98 tank has a rigid filler neck though, and is a PITA to pull and replace compared to the newer style... I want to bolt it up and forget it.

That's why I don't want to go with dual in-tanks. Once it's sumped, everything can be easily inspected and replaced if neccessary from the outside.

RT, thanks but...
The 98 tank has a rigid filler neck though, and is a PITA to pull and replace compared to the newer style... I want to bolt it up and forget it.

That's why I don't want to go with dual in-tanks. Once it's sumped, everything can be easily inspected and replaced if neccessary from the outside.

I want the dual in-tank because I don't want an external pump screaming or the sump point knocked off from hitting a curb.

RT, thanks but...
The 98 tank has a rigid filler neck though, and is a PITA to pull and replace compared to the newer style... I want to bolt it up and forget it.

That's why I don't want to go with dual in-tanks. Once it's sumped, everything can be easily inspected and replaced if neccessary from the outside.

There are kits which allow you to cut a small section of the fill neck out and replace it with a flexible section of rubber hose. This makes R&R easy. Either way you should drop the tank and thoroughly clean it out.



Most external pumps have very short life spans, are very noisy, draw more current, heat the fuel and cost much more to install. Lines hanging out underneath the car are also an insurance liability should the car be involved in an accident.