whats the purpose of poly motor mounts?
12-28-2005, 08:58 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lots of people use them to keep the y pipe from hitting the bottom of the floor, I didn't want to hassle with the mounts so I got the bumpstop hanger from Thunder Racing.
12-29-2005, 12:14 AM
#5
I would HIGHLY recommend throwing a set in. With my stock cam, my motor was solid as a rock when idling, no movement at all. I think they did worlds for how my car felt. One of my favorite mods has been poly motor/trans mounts. The motor mounts actually made the car vibrate LESS, but the tranny mount gave a little bit more vibration. I got used to that 
Thunder sells them for 50$ and they are worth every penny. PLUS installing them is a snap if your installing headers.
Thunder sells them for 50$ and they are worth every penny. PLUS installing them is a snap if your installing headers.
Trending Topics
12-29-2005, 02:05 AM
#8
Definatly take all the exhaust out, put the mounts in, then put the exhaust on
You will have to unbolt the alternator to get the driverside motor mount bolt out. Some people unbolt the a/c compressor to get the passenger side bolt out, but i've found its not necessary. I simply unbolted the mount from the block, then unbolted the pedestal from the k-member, and removed that whole assembly (loosten the motor mount bolt first for more flexibility).
BE CAREFUL with the alternator. There is a weather tight connector that plugs into the top of the alternator that only has 1 TINY red wire. This wire LOVES to rip out of the harness if you unbolt the alternator and let it swing. The main power wire is strong enough to suspend the alternator from, but this tiny one will rip and you will have to do a little surgery (PM me/search my posts if this happens). Its called the exciter wire.
You will have to unbolt the alternator to get the driverside motor mount bolt out. Some people unbolt the a/c compressor to get the passenger side bolt out, but i've found its not necessary. I simply unbolted the mount from the block, then unbolted the pedestal from the k-member, and removed that whole assembly (loosten the motor mount bolt first for more flexibility).
BE CAREFUL with the alternator. There is a weather tight connector that plugs into the top of the alternator that only has 1 TINY red wire. This wire LOVES to rip out of the harness if you unbolt the alternator and let it swing. The main power wire is strong enough to suspend the alternator from, but this tiny one will rip and you will have to do a little surgery (PM me/search my posts if this happens). Its called the exciter wire.
12-29-2005, 02:25 AM
#9
TECH Regular
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Home
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Definatly take all the exhaust out, put the mounts in, then put the exhaust on
You will have to unbolt the alternator to get the driverside motor mount bolt out. Some people unbolt the a/c compressor to get the passenger side bolt out, but i've found its not necessary. I simply unbolted the mount from the block, then unbolted the pedestal from the k-member, and removed that whole assembly (loosten the motor mount bolt first for more flexibility).
BE CAREFUL with the alternator. There is a weather tight connector that plugs into the top of the alternator that only has 1 TINY red wire. This wire LOVES to rip out of the harness if you unbolt the alternator and let it swing. The main power wire is strong enough to suspend the alternator from, but this tiny one will rip and you will have to do a little surgery (PM me/search my posts if this happens). Its called the exciter wire.
You will have to unbolt the alternator to get the driverside motor mount bolt out. Some people unbolt the a/c compressor to get the passenger side bolt out, but i've found its not necessary. I simply unbolted the mount from the block, then unbolted the pedestal from the k-member, and removed that whole assembly (loosten the motor mount bolt first for more flexibility).
BE CAREFUL with the alternator. There is a weather tight connector that plugs into the top of the alternator that only has 1 TINY red wire. This wire LOVES to rip out of the harness if you unbolt the alternator and let it swing. The main power wire is strong enough to suspend the alternator from, but this tiny one will rip and you will have to do a little surgery (PM me/search my posts if this happens). Its called the exciter wire.
When I swapped in the mounts I let the alternator hang as well and tore the excitor wire clean off. I thought my voltage was a little low and when I went back to look for potential problems I found it. It broke off inside the clip though and I couldn't get it out, nor could I find another clip like it. I ended up having to crimp on a female quick-disconnect, crip the end a little to make it smaller, and just slipped it on the terminal (threw the plug out). Ya it's ghetto rigged, but all the wire does is switch "on" when the alternator should start charging. Lesson learned and hopefully no one else makes the same mistake now.
12-29-2005, 01:56 PM
#13
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's definately worthwhile to do this while the headers are out. It's not too bad to do it with the exhaust in, but why make your life more difficult, right?
Yes, you need to lift the motor a bit to get the mount out. A prybar works wonders for moving the motor around with the new mount in the get the bolt to line up.
Yes, you need to lift the motor a bit to get the mount out. A prybar works wonders for moving the motor around with the new mount in the get the bolt to line up.
