bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

Seriously. I am about 90% convinced that I want to just do a SC first when I get back from deployment, this summer. Keep in mind, either way I will go, I want to go w/ the Procharger eventually...

Both I figure to be about $6,000.. I just need help deciding.. How would this perform as a daily driver w/ larger heads and a blower cam? -W/O the blower?

--------------------Choices---------------------------------------

AFR 225cc heads. Any cam grind recomends w/ this?? Also a LSX Intake w/ mabie a 90mm Intake. (-Overkill??) I will do a Moser 12B rear w/ 3.83's w/ either one of these combos.

------OR-----

Just the D1SC-1 w/ the Moser 12B and 3.83's..

Any maintenance or daily upkeep issues w/ the SC setup??


Any info would be great!
Thanx in advance.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I would say get the s/c first. You'll probably be happy with just the power the D1 is capable of considering that thing will flow more air than any street heads/cam combo.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

But when I add a H/C I can juice it up a little right??

Where do I get the ATI Pulleys?

onefastss223

iTrader: (14)

I'd go with the Procharger first to. You never know you might be content with that and may not want to add anything else. But in the event you do decide you want more power i'd go with some good 6.0L heads(to bring the CR down) and a custom grind blower cam. Wouldnt hurt to add some Methanol also if you're on the stock bottom end and you want to see more boost and be a little safer. Just my thoughts though. As for the pulleys you can usually find them off of a user on here or on ebay. You can also buy them from ATI I believe.

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

I would do the D1SC. However the $6000.00 you mention is just to get you started. Then other issues will start popping up (tranny, diff, suspension, etc). But once you finish it, it will be badass.

White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

I have done it both ways, and I would do heads cam first (and I am going to with my new car). It is going to be tough to do a D1SC and rear end with all the other stuff you need for boost (fuel system, gauges, tuning) for $6000 - even if you do the labor yourself. You can do heads cam, for much less, with the rear, plus tuning for under $6000. Check out Livernois ported LS6 heads, they are cheap but they FLOW.

-Geoff

EPP

iTrader: (22)

I don't recommend doing heads/cam and an ATI ProCharger unless you're installing forged rods and pistons. Too much stress on the stock pistons will take out #7.
You can get away with the ProCharger at 8 psi and a cam, with a good tune you'll be reliable. I seen adding better flowing heads into the mix take out the pistons too many times.
You get get smaller blower pullies from me when the time comes that you need them. I try to keep most of the various sizes in stock. Bob

mdhmi

iTrader: (1)

I would keep the stock heads and wait until you do the blower to add a cam.

Mark

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

The kit comes w/ the fuel stuff, injectors and pump. I saw how they had the new pump 'rigged' up and was thinking of getting the same size one and replace the in tank pump. Instead of rigging up a secondary external pump.


I have already had an LS1 Edit dyno tune done to it. How would this effect the performance. I mean if I do the install w/ the supplied tuning, would I be able to drive it for about 200 miles to get it re-tuned? (Alamogordo NM to El Paso)


Any cam recomends that would work w/ or w/o heads? 224/232 113*?


I have a couple small other nickel and dime items I will be doing w/ this. I am looking at a street built aftermarket t56. (This stocker is being a PITA)

EPP

iTrader: (22)

The Lingenfelter GT2-3 camshaft works very well with forced induction. It is a very easy cam to tune with.

I would go with the 1GJ204-SCI "tuner" kit from ATI ProCharger. This kit does not come with injectors, no fuel pump, and no tune is supplied. It is the eight rib kit, and comes with the new for '05 thicker intercoolers. You will need injectors, fuel pump, tuning and an ATI Performance Products (different company) harmonic balancer to work with the ATI eight rib ProCharger.

Keep your stock injectors in the engine until you get it retuned. Do NOT go wide open throttle until you get it tuned! We have had customers drive halfway across the country to bring their car to us to get it tuned in this manner.


Here is a list of items that I recently put together for building up the chassis prior to adding the horsepower. People are always asking the question of whether to go with a head and cam package, or go with a supercharger or turbocharger. There is no way you are to match the power of an ATI ProCharger with a head and cam package unless you use a pretty radical camshaft. Nitrous oxide could be used instead of going the forced induction route, with very good results at a fraction of the cost. A cold air kit would be required if you elect to use nitrous oxide instead of going the forced induction (ATI ProCharger) route. The ATI ProChargers come with a K&N cone filter. With forced induction, such as the ATI ProCharger, the power is always going to be there when you want it, with no nitrous bottles to constantly refill. A turbocharger could be used instead of an ATI ProCharger, but I am not convinced that the turbo kits currently out on the market will stand the test of time. TurboChargers go through extreme heat cycles, which can fracture the turbo housing mounts.
With the items listed below, your car would be quite capable of routinely running low eleven second 1/4 mile times, or faster, when combined with the M/T Street radial rear tires.

Everyone has their opinions on what is the best package, and here is mine.

1. Subframe Connectors - Absolutely necessary to keep your F Body from twisting and stretching. I have seen too many of these cars lose their door to fender gaps from having gone too long without subframe connectors. Subframe connectors will make the car handle better, you'll get fewer squeaks and the car will get better traction.

2. Torque Arm - BMR, Global West and Spohn all make torque arms that relocate the front mount off of the transmission by relocating the front mount back behind the transmission. The relocation of the front mount relieves the stress from the tailshaft of the transmission that the torque arm places on it, as a result of trying to contain the rear-end and it's rotational stresses. The stock torque arm is a stamped piece of sheetmetal that has broken apart for many people, and it sometimes takes out the driveshaft with it when it goes. By relocating the front mount of the torque arm behind the transmission, the geometry of the rear suspension becomes much better and really aids in hooking up the rear suspension. While replacing the torque arm, check the transmission mount, as the stock torque arm places a huge load on the mount, and the mount breaks quite often when using the factory torque arm. The adjustability of these aftermarket torque arms allows the user to adjust the pinion angle of the rear suspension which aids in finding traction.

3. Moser 12 bolt - Sooner or later the weak 7.5" Chevy S-10 derived 10 bolt is going to break. I wouldn't waste any money into attempting to build up the 10 bolt, it just doesn't work. There isn't one strong point to the stocker. For those of you with a six speed transmission, the 10 bolt has broken on many M6 cars with stock power. Expect the worse to happen... 3:73 gears in the Moser rear-end is a good compromise, especially when adding a lot of power to the engine.

4. Driveshaft - The stock GM driveshaft have broken for many enthusiast, both the steel and the 3.0" aluminum GM driveshafts are fairly weak. I recommend an aftermarket 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with a 1350 Yoke with a 1350 U Joint. Combined with the Moser 12 bolt with their supplied 1350 yoke, you will have a strong drivetrain.

5. Clutch and pressure plate - I recommend the Spec Stage 3 clutch and pressure plate. Expect some chatter for the first 500 miles, then it will be pretty smooth. I would also add the '01-'02 slave cylinder for the older models, and do the "drill mod" to the master cylinder. Do a search on this forum for the drill mod, and you will see what it entails.

At this point I believe the suspension is capable off supporting a lot of horsepower, and you can go straight to item 14.
For those of you who are dragstrip bound, I would also add a few additional items.

6. Adjustable lower control arms - The aftermarket lower control arms are much stouter, and will not flex like the factory lower control arms. Going with adjustable ones will allow the user to center the rear end in the wheelwell. The stock rear end position from the factory tends to be .5" towards the rear of the car. You really won't notice it until larger diameter tires are installed.

7. Lower control arm relocation brackets - Lower control arm relocation brackets are meant to be used when the car has been lowered, which alters the angle of the lower control arms. We have found that the relocation brackets also help in getting traction in non lowered cars. We use the weld on style that BMR offers.

8. Panhard bar - The factory pan hard bar is pretty flimsy and additional traction can be found by replacing the factory pan hard bar with a heavier duty aftermarket bar. The rear in these cars tends to sit closer to the right side, and by purchasing an adjustable pan hard bar, the rear-end can be centered in the body.

9. Strut Tower Brace - Eliminate flexing in the front end by adding an aftermarket strut tower brace. You will also notice that the car will handle better with a strut tower brace.

10. Battery box relocation - By relocating the battery to the trunk, you will remove a lot of weight off the front of the car and place the weight behind the rear-end, where it will aid in traction. The car will also be able to handle better with the weight relocation.

11. Rear coil spring air bags - By experimenting with adding more air to the right air bag than to the left one, better off the line traction can be found.

12. Adjustable shocks and front coil over springs - We use the Hal QA1 12 way adjustable shocks on our cars. It is easy to adjust these shocks for street use, and then readjust them for strip use by simply rotating the 12 way adjustable dial. The Hal QA1 front coil over springs allows the front end height to easily be adjusted.

13. K member - By replacing the front K member and upper and lower control arms with light weight aftermarket tubular ones, a lot of weight is removed from the front suspension. Since front end weight is removed, better off the line traction and better handling will occur. We have had good success with the BMR parts, and combined with the Hal QA1 shocks and coil over front springs, gives the car a much better chance of getting traction on the starting line.

14. Headers and cat back exhaust - Everyone has their favorites, but we have grown very fond of Hooker and Flowtech headers, and the Hooker and Magnaflow Cat Back exhaust systems.
Flowtech and Hooker ceramic coated headers fit very well, with excellent ground clearance. The Flowtech headers are priced very competitively with PaceSetter headers, yet they install and fit much better. The ceramic coatings go a long way towards keeping the exhaust temps in the pipes, keeping the engine bay cooler and improving internal exhaust scavenging. These two brands of headers will give you 2.5" more in ground clearance compared to SLP headers.
The Hooker and Magnaflow cat back exhaust systems give these cars a good muscular sound that will not drown out your stereo while driving down the road. The exhaust tubing is larger than the stock tubing and is mandrel bent, for better exhaust flow.

For those of you who want it loud. If you are looking for an exhaust system that will annoy everyone around you, the two above exhaust systems are not for you. The SLP "Loud Mouth" cat back is a good system for those of you who want to be noticed. When we have one of these cars on my dyno with a loud mouth exhaust system, everyone around our area can hear the car!

15. ATI ProCharger D-1SC eight rib supercharger - Simply the best and easiest way to get 450 to 500 rwhp out of your car in my opinion, when combined with headers and a good cat back exhaust system. The car will still see great part throttle gas mileage, overall driveability will still be excellent, and the power is always there when you want it. At 8 pounds of boost, the car will be very dependable, and with the twin high flow air to air intercoolers, unleaded premium is all you need to use. I recommend the ATI ProCharger D-1SC "tuner" kit, as the D-1SC can handle future mods much better than the P-1SC. You will need 42 lb fuel injectors, a 255 litre in tank fuel pump, and chassis dyno tuning with the "tuner" kit.

Hopefully this list will help you in your quest for having a quick car! Bob

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

yeah, I read that on your page. Thanx for all the helpful info! I'm sold on the Procharger. You guy'sll hear from me when I get back from the desert.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Blower first is your best choice.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

do the D1 if it comes with the fuel stuff.Then if you wanted pickup a set of LQ9 heads cheap(ie i got mine for $300) and swap springs and pushrods,and then get either the GT2-3 cam as mentioned or a custom grind, HPE does custom grind cams pretty cheap.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I would skip the heads before the charger. I was in the same seat you are. If you spend $2k on the AFR heads, they will not be able to see their potential with the D1SC. 500rwhp is in the upper area of what is considered "safe" for the stock bottem end. In my case, I figured I would go with the D1SC and cam with 8lbs, full exhaust with TDs, and a tune.
Then after some time I would forge the bottem end, a good idea when the car is put up for the winter.