FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

For months now I have been reading and hearing that the stock rod bolts are the weakest point in the LS1 motor and therefore the limiting factor on how much power you should make reliably and the limiting factor on how hard you can turn the motor.

So being that my plans include a healthy heads and cam package with nitrous, I checked into changing the rod bolts. However,............. I was told by several companies that I called MTI, HPE, Lingenfelter & others that I should never just change rod bolts. The rods need to be re-conditioned for it. Only 1 company and I will not name them since they are a sponsor said "sure why not?"

Well, I logically figure it was stupid to disassemble a motor that far and not just rebuild it, which is something I'm trying to avoid because I want a stroker later on. So I dropped the idea.

Well last week a local friend of mine brought up changing rodbolts and I told him why I was not going to get into, that I just wouldn't turn the car hard. His immediate reply was "go look at what Katech's website says". http://www.katechengines.com/street_...etail.php?id=5

I did, and from what they say, its no big deal with the bolts they sell. Its a simple R&R, torque to 50ft/lb and your done.

What is your input? Has anyone done the swap with Katech rod bolts and nothing else?

Thanks,
Jeff

redtail2426

iTrader: (10)

i did some research on this a while back and disovered that the katech bolts are the way to go simply because it is just a R@R.They are the same head design as the stock rod bolts so they wont cause any distortion on the cap.When i do mine im going with the katech.

DocEwww

iTrader: (1)

I have Katechs sitting in my room...heard theyre the only direct replacement.

FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

I understand what your saying, and it makes perfect sense, but I just wonder why so many reputable shops said no.?????

I guess to feel comfortable with this I would need someone to explain to me "You can do it with this rod bolt because.... and you can't do it with this rod bolt because....". I guess I'm looking for some logic.

777

iTrader: (21)

Most people use arp rod bolts, that's why the company's said don't do it. Katech went through and developed their bolt to stock like dimension, but with a crazy tensile strength. They are the only ones I know of that you can safely do an R&R with. Some do it with arp's but I wouldn't recomend it. Either way it's nice to check clearances to know, but you shouldn't have to with katech. I'm sure he will chime in sooner or later.

Here is a thread I searched for you https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=katech

PREDATOR-Z

When I blew my previous shortblock on my Z with low miles on it (rod bolt failure), I replaced the ones on the used 03 shortblock I got (super low miles from wrecked GTO/Lumina). I used Katech bolts and since then I've shot up to 200 dry many, many times to 6800 rpms both street and track with no issues or worries.
Katech is the way to go.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

you can do it with those bolts and our rods because....

the cracked cap design holds the rod half in the exact same place it was in when it wore in for those 1000s of miles... and because those bolts are designed to distort the cap in a fashion identical to the st ockers.


you cant do it with conventional rods because......

they have a flat machined cap surface that will move around slightly every time you untorque and retorque them... and because 99% of the time you have no way of knowing the exact distortion caused by bolt XYZ when replacing it with bolt ABC in the rod...

its only because your rod bolt distortion stress is known, tested, and retested, and then duplicated...... and because of the cracked cap design that you can do this safely.



although, im probably not the person you want to hear the answer from.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I did Katechs and have had NO issues. I spin to 7K every time I race.

redtail2426

iTrader: (10)

does anyone know if theres a write up on doing the rod bolts with the engine still in the car.

Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

where can you get the katech rod bolts, i went to there site and cant find them. do you have to custom order them??

FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

I guess that answers my concerns as best possible especially with other guys in this post that did the swap already and have turned them HARD!!!

Now the question is, How? How is the best way to do it with the engine still in. How can I suspend the motor from the top?


Thanks everyone! You too Travis!!

Pumba

Derek,

Here is the URL to Katech's rod bolts: http://www.katechengines.com/street_...etail.php?id=5

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I did it while changing the K Member. I used a 4x4 peice of wood accross the shock towers and some good straps around the headers to support the engine. I also had a jack under the trans.

It worked for me and we have done a few of these.

Oh and you will be amazed at how easy it is to get the oil pump pickup tube and O ring this way.

BackinBlack02SS

iTrader: (7)

Didn't the 01+ LS1 engines have stronger rod bolts from the factory?

redtail2426

iTrader: (10)

yes they did but they are still really not up to the task of 6800 rpms and 500+ hp.**** i wont spin a stock bottom end 01 or not past 6300,but thats just me.

Katech_Jason

iTrader: (19)

Ahhh! I hate to see posts like this. Call me directly for any questions. Phone number and website are in the sig.

Z28LS1camaroguy

iTrader: (3)

sorry man but i couldnt find it on your website, thats what this site is for to help point people in the right direction and help them find what they need.

Katech_Jason

iTrader: (19)

Yea, I'm not saying its you. It's our marketing problem I guess you could say. Well, that is why I'm here on LS1tech.

FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

Jason,
I'll be giving you a call to pick up some of these bolts. Thanks for stopping in.

Jeff

BLUEBALLS ZZ

iTrader: (2)