CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Ok, I am running a Rossler TH350 Terminator II with Rossbrake and an ATI 4,000stall TC. If I add in the Harlan 2step, where should I end up RPM wise? Does it defeat the stall per-sae or no? My confusion is, using the Brake, I can lock the trans 1st & R together, and if I throttle to 5,000rpms, is there any benefit of having a 4,000 stall? Or would I only want to 2step up to say 3,500rpms? ****. Not even sure I am going to hook the 2step up, but I wanted to tie in the 2Step, Rossbrake, and Nitrous into one, Arm the Nitrous, Hit the big red Trans Brake button locking the trans, activating the 2step, mash the throttle, and when I release...2step goes off, and Nitrous goes on away we go!

Thanks
Charlie

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

If you have a 4000 stall, ur not gonna be able too go up too 5000, you can only go as high as ur stall will allow you on the transbrake, so depends on ur motor, I have a yank SS4000E, and she'll only go like 3800 or so on the brake. I would think the higher you come out on the t-brake, the harder it would hit, and also the higher it will flash when you come out and the spray hits cuz it's already starting higher. I would use the 2-step if ur lookin for traction help, too decrease the rpm and make her hit a little softer. I could be wrong though, anyone else care too comment?

next

iTrader: (9)

Charlie,

I'd definitely hook up the 2 step. Devon's right about you can only stall as high as your converter will let you. Without the 2 step you won't have much choice on consistantly launching from anywhere (RPM-wise) except against the full stall of the converter. With the 2 step you will have a chance to adjust and get more flash. There's a great sling shot effect from not being fully on the converter.

Here's my favorite benefit - adjusting it to your R/T. If you are just little early or late on the tree a few hundred RPM's can make a big difference. I'm a student of trying to constantly improve on R/T and try every tool possible.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Well that makes me feel better. I have only launched from the brake once to test it, and it was on my way downtown...just a little one though Well, guess I will definatley have to hook up the two step then. I can just imagine the fun it will be "testing" to find the right launch rpm

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Be careful with that on the street, don't know what kind of tires you run on the street or how they hook, but i've heard that if you launch off the t-brake and are just annhialating the tires, that it will burn the t-brake up, don't know if that's true, but a buddy of mine told me that Carl Rossler told him that when he bought his turbo 400 from him. Cuz I was dicking around one night a doin t-brake launches on my street tires in a parking lot and then told my buddy the next day and that's when he told me that.

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

A 2 step is always a good idea, but with a 4000 stall, I know I wouldn't need one.
The higher you can stall it up, the better the 60's until wheelies/traction become a problem.

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

A 2-step is highly recommended for the nitrous though..

LASTLS1

iTrader: (7)

True, only use the trans break if you have traction.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Well, a prime concern for the 2step is for the consistency, since our track is almost alwasy unprepped, I can dial in the launch rpm. I tried the stock tach, and yep, its slow as **** and never the same amount behind The brake will only be used on sticky tire night, after some ET Street practicing for reaction of course. I heard about braking on the street as well, and avoided it since, and didnt roast the tires that time either. Just stalled up, and released to get a feel for it. Thanks everyone.

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

I couldn't agree more.

when I was on nitrous I set the 2 step at 3500 and the window switch
at 4100 (stall speed was 4200).

When I was cam only(NA), I always put it right on the converter(5100)

H/C the 2 step was necessary again.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Why? Wouldn't that mean ur not comin right out of the hole on spray? I have a 4000 verter, but it only goes too 3800 on the brake (thing is really tight and efficient), and window switch set at 3000 and have tried the 2-step at different rpms and she seems too hit the hardest off the top of the brake, may actually need too go bigger on the verter, cuz she's not really hittin hard enough, but gonna mess with a few things first too try and change that.

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

I could be wrong, but it looks to me like his converter would flash to 4200 rpms so he set the nitrous to come on about the same rpm as the converter was flashing.. and with a 1.36 short time I think he's got it dialed in pretty nicely..

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

So I will hopefully get some TransBrake sticky tire launches this upcoming w/e. Find out where the flash point is, and then work on getting the nitrous hooked back up and start dialing that in. There's some pretty good info here. Thanks.

Charlie

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

No, I know, i'm asking him why b/c he always 60's so well, wondering if it was a special trick too get it too hit harder or something, cuz if he's coming off the brake at 3500 even though it flashes over the 4100 of the window switch pill, there should be a split second right when he lets off the brake where there's no nitrous hitting I would think, right?

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

This allows a brief (milli)second before the nitrous hits which allows the tires
to plant and load the chassis before the monster torque hit.

I'm gonna have to start charging for all my secrets.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I was going to comment on the sharing of info.. Jugg.. I really appreciate the amount of info you shared on your setup. Rather than getting the "yeah it's gearing" or such response, you went and explained what yoru doing and then why. Thats some good poop there! Thanks. Once I get the new rearend, I will try to follow your staging process and hopefully will have similar results. Thanks.

Charlie

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Ah I gotcha, thanks for explaining dude, that's the only thing I could think of why you would do it. My problem right now though is not hitting hard enough, but that might be b/c i'm at almost 3500 lb raceweight, gonna mess with a few things and see what I can do, also might try adjusting my front mount height on the torque arm up, I have it in the lowest hole right now, cuz i've always had traction issues with the old torque arm, but now she's just hookin so good, so I think I can start messin with movin it up some and see if she hits harder and still hooks. I mean coming out of the hole off the t-brake on a 200 shot, I only cut a 1.40, no wheel spin, dead hook! But that was at 3300 on the 2-step, so i'm gonna shut the 2-step off and try coming off the top of the brake and see what happens, plus hopefully with the second stage of 100 horse hitting 1 tenth of a second later, maybe she'll get down where I want her before I start messing with moving anything on the torque arm.

GueSS Who

I have gotten a 1.30 60ft on the brake.
I have gotten a 1.30 60ft on the brake with the 2step set 400rpms shy of the converter stall.
I have gotten a 1.30 60ft on the foot brake.

The only thing it does for me is helps with my reaction time.

christophermorales

The way I set up my transbrake in my old car was hold down the transbrake button and floor it, it stalled to 4,500 when I let off the transbrake button the nitrous activates, I ran a 250 shot with a 4.86 gear M/T 33x16.5s tire. When it works right and you ask yourself am i doing a big wheelie when you see the sky, the transbrake is working good =P

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Good lord thats a lot of tire! I havent wired my Nitrous into the TB yet, but will hopefully soon. As of now, I soft foot the throttle while on the brake to avoid the WOT tripping. Once the tires are swapped and suspension sorted out I hope to short time like GueSS Who!