slp 375 or 400 preformance pack
#1
Staging Lane
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slp 375 or 400 preformance pack
Have some intrest in getting one of these are either worth the money or should I just buy the parts seprately and get the brands or mods I want this way just seems alot easier for me would like some input
Last edited by URNZONEBAIT; 01-07-2006 at 11:39 PM. Reason: mispelling
#2
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I'd just shop for the parts in the 400 pack seperately. You'll pay top dollar for the SLP name and gain no power over other less expensive brands.
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Start shopping.
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If you must have SLP, you should get the 400 pack. Extra ponies.
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Start shopping.
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If you must have SLP, you should get the 400 pack. Extra ponies.
#3
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ok 400 hp sounds good but will I have to make other changes like brakes, rearend , and the most important question will it still be a daily driver ?
#4
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I wouldnt get either, SLP is very pricey and the quality is quesitonable. 400 hp is easy enough, a lid, bellows and catback will get you around 380, add headers and a y pipe and you should be there. so say $450 for headers, $160 ORY, $90 for a lid, $60 for bellows, and $200-$800 for a catback and your there for ~$1000-$1600 opposed to $2200, you wont need the rockers that come with the powerpac. It will still be a good daily driver, with better gas milage. If you want bang for buck though you need to get a converter first, but that costs you MPG
EDIT: SLP's kit also comes with a Tuner and a MAF, a MAF on an auto is very hit and miss, even so on a 6-speed, and the tuner is really no help, so save you $$ for either a converter or som N2O
EDIT: SLP's kit also comes with a Tuner and a MAF, a MAF on an auto is very hit and miss, even so on a 6-speed, and the tuner is really no help, so save you $$ for either a converter or som N2O
#6
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IMO...both of those aren't they way to go.
I dislike it when vendors use the "400hp package deal" verbage.
They always use flywheel hp numbers. It's misleading.
If you want 400hp, and I'm talking to the wheels, you're going to need
headers and a cam if you stick with the N/A route.
I dislike it when vendors use the "400hp package deal" verbage.
They always use flywheel hp numbers. It's misleading.
If you want 400hp, and I'm talking to the wheels, you're going to need
headers and a cam if you stick with the N/A route.
#7
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Originally Posted by 98NBM_TransAm
I wouldnt get either, SLP is very pricey and the quality is quesitonable. 400 hp is easy enough, a lid, bellows and catback will get you around 380, add headers and a y pipe and you should be there. so say $450 for headers, $160 ORY, $90 for a lid, $60 for bellows, and $200-$800 for a catback and your there for ~$1000-$1600 opposed to $2200, you wont need the rockers that come with the powerpac. It will still be a good daily driver, with better gas milage. If you want bang for buck though you need to get a converter first, but that costs you MPG
EDIT: SLP's kit also comes with a Tuner and a MAF, a MAF on an auto is very hit and miss, even so on a 6-speed, and the tuner is really no help, so save you $$ for either a converter or som N2O
EDIT: SLP's kit also comes with a Tuner and a MAF, a MAF on an auto is very hit and miss, even so on a 6-speed, and the tuner is really no help, so save you $$ for either a converter or som N2O
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#12
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A smooth bellow connects the lid to the MAF. As opposed to the accordian syle bellow that is in place now. A smooth bellow can be constructed for ~$5.00 using a 3" hose coupler or something similar. IMO getting a smooth bellow should be last on your list. Especially the $50 SLP one. If you want one, make one yourself.
You should get an air lid, have your TB ported, LS6 intake, longtube headers, underdrive pulley. That will net you 400+ fwhp. A bigger stall converter would make the biggest difference though. If you dont mind taking a little hit on MPG, look at a 3200 coverter or larger. They'll drop your e.t. big time.
You should get an air lid, have your TB ported, LS6 intake, longtube headers, underdrive pulley. That will net you 400+ fwhp. A bigger stall converter would make the biggest difference though. If you dont mind taking a little hit on MPG, look at a 3200 coverter or larger. They'll drop your e.t. big time.
#13
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Look at the "pacs" and research each of the pieces.
Some are worthless, some are worse, and the ones
that do help most you can find cheaper (or used).
Let's break down the "400HP" "Stage 3" package
(an affordable $3,684.45, plus shipping, for the
75HP or so (flywheel) gain, or about $50/HP.
High-Flow Air-Box Lid (21045)
- OK. $50 used, $100 new.
Cold-Air Induction Package (21033)
- No. Raises IATs in my experience.
High-Flow K&N Air Filter (25012)
- No. Fouls the MAF.
F-Body Smooth Bellows (23065)
- OK, if you need it. I don't, my bellow are fully
compressed due to my intake tract config.
Modular Loud Mouth™ Exhaust System w/3.5" Slash Tips (31042A)
- Maybe, but it's loud as in "ticket me" and people
seem to tire of it.
85mm High-Flow MAF Sensor (23060)
- No. Lean error on "'98-'00" model will be trimmed
out, calibration on "'01-'02" is closer but still
questionable. Buy a junkyard 75mm and pop
the screen if you have to play.
DiabloSport II Programmer with SLP Custom Tuning (27007T)
- Nah. somewhat useful for A4, less so for M6. Nowhere
near adequate for more substantial mods / tuning.
1.8-Ratio Roller-Tip Rocker Arms (53305)
- Maybe; increase in breathing but a cam would be
much better, LS1 stock heads don't respond to lift
over 0.500 but love more duration. A cam will give
you as much as you want, of both (chosen wisely).
Tuned-Length Long-Tube Headers with Aluminum-Ceramic Coating (30052)
Header-Installation Kit (30054)
High-Flow Catalytic Converters (31037)
- No. SLP headers have poor ground clearance and
inferior performance. The material is nice, but you
can beat both price and performance.
Stage 3 Fender Badges (pair)
- Oh, hell yes. This is what makes it all worthwhile.
If it were me, I'd say
Lid $100 (shiny new)
Edelbrock headers & Y ($500 or so if "offroad")
Corsa or Magnaflow catback ($400)
Cam (stealth / old man style & install kit) $500 or so
HPTuners ($500) and a beater laptop ($400, if)
Junkyard MAF to descreen $25
Electric drill, 3/4" sanding drum kit, epoxy to port
your own TB $50
Here you're at about $2500, with more real improvement
and less hype, and $1000+ in pocket that you could
throw at installation or keep if you do the work yourself
(think tires & suspension, or maybe laugh your *** off).
Some are worthless, some are worse, and the ones
that do help most you can find cheaper (or used).
Let's break down the "400HP" "Stage 3" package
(an affordable $3,684.45, plus shipping, for the
75HP or so (flywheel) gain, or about $50/HP.
High-Flow Air-Box Lid (21045)
- OK. $50 used, $100 new.
Cold-Air Induction Package (21033)
- No. Raises IATs in my experience.
High-Flow K&N Air Filter (25012)
- No. Fouls the MAF.
F-Body Smooth Bellows (23065)
- OK, if you need it. I don't, my bellow are fully
compressed due to my intake tract config.
Modular Loud Mouth™ Exhaust System w/3.5" Slash Tips (31042A)
- Maybe, but it's loud as in "ticket me" and people
seem to tire of it.
85mm High-Flow MAF Sensor (23060)
- No. Lean error on "'98-'00" model will be trimmed
out, calibration on "'01-'02" is closer but still
questionable. Buy a junkyard 75mm and pop
the screen if you have to play.
DiabloSport II Programmer with SLP Custom Tuning (27007T)
- Nah. somewhat useful for A4, less so for M6. Nowhere
near adequate for more substantial mods / tuning.
1.8-Ratio Roller-Tip Rocker Arms (53305)
- Maybe; increase in breathing but a cam would be
much better, LS1 stock heads don't respond to lift
over 0.500 but love more duration. A cam will give
you as much as you want, of both (chosen wisely).
Tuned-Length Long-Tube Headers with Aluminum-Ceramic Coating (30052)
Header-Installation Kit (30054)
High-Flow Catalytic Converters (31037)
- No. SLP headers have poor ground clearance and
inferior performance. The material is nice, but you
can beat both price and performance.
Stage 3 Fender Badges (pair)
- Oh, hell yes. This is what makes it all worthwhile.
If it were me, I'd say
Lid $100 (shiny new)
Edelbrock headers & Y ($500 or so if "offroad")
Corsa or Magnaflow catback ($400)
Cam (stealth / old man style & install kit) $500 or so
HPTuners ($500) and a beater laptop ($400, if)
Junkyard MAF to descreen $25
Electric drill, 3/4" sanding drum kit, epoxy to port
your own TB $50
Here you're at about $2500, with more real improvement
and less hype, and $1000+ in pocket that you could
throw at installation or keep if you do the work yourself
(think tires & suspension, or maybe laugh your *** off).
#15
High flow filter clogs the MAF? I never had a problem. I had a huge problem though when I started out piecing stuff together and then realized how much money I blew on POINTLESS stuff like the "Cold Air Induction Pac" for a meeker 320$. SLP? The more you do the less you'll learn to go w/ SLP.
There are many cars out there pushing better numbers than mine and are still daily drivers. Brakes and Rearend are only necessities if you really need them through wear and tear or for increased braking ability as your personal preference. AND yes, 400 hp sounds good. 400 rwhp sounds MUCH better. Like mentioned above by a few other people, SLP is hp at the flywheel. I was w/ SLP until I was going to buy their "500 hp heads and cam package," and then I found ou that the 500 was only about 425 to the wheels and instantly went forced induction :insert plug for forced induction here!:
And a lid is the black rectangular box located in the forward part of the engine bay that houses the air filter.
ok 400 hp sounds good but will I have to make other changes like brakes, rearend , and the most important question will it still be a daily driver ?
And a lid is the black rectangular box located in the forward part of the engine bay that houses the air filter.
Last edited by reocamaro; 01-10-2006 at 05:32 AM.
#16
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>High flow filter clogs the MAF? I never had a problem.
It's the oil used on the filter, which accumulates as a
crust on the MAF sense elements. This raises the
thermal resistance to the airstream, lowers the MAF
power needed to "light it up" and makes the output
frequency per real airflow drift low (lean) over time.
Your fuel trims will slowly drift positive and your A4
transmission will be given less line pressure. Being
over-enthusiastic with the oil, makes it worse.
GM has a TSB out saying to deny your warranty claim
on engine or trans complaints if they find one. Not
that it stops the dealership from selling them at the
parts counter....
It's the oil used on the filter, which accumulates as a
crust on the MAF sense elements. This raises the
thermal resistance to the airstream, lowers the MAF
power needed to "light it up" and makes the output
frequency per real airflow drift low (lean) over time.
Your fuel trims will slowly drift positive and your A4
transmission will be given less line pressure. Being
over-enthusiastic with the oil, makes it worse.
GM has a TSB out saying to deny your warranty claim
on engine or trans complaints if they find one. Not
that it stops the dealership from selling them at the
parts counter....
#17
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
>High flow filter clogs the MAF? I never had a problem.
It's the oil used on the filter, which accumulates as a
crust on the MAF sense elements. This raises the
thermal resistance to the airstream, lowers the MAF
power needed to "light it up" and makes the output
frequency per real airflow drift low (lean) over time.
Your fuel trims will slowly drift positive and your A4
transmission will be given less line pressure. Being
over-enthusiastic with the oil, makes it worse.
GM has a TSB out saying to deny your warranty claim
on engine or trans complaints if they find one. Not
that it stops the dealership from selling them at the
parts counter....
It's the oil used on the filter, which accumulates as a
crust on the MAF sense elements. This raises the
thermal resistance to the airstream, lowers the MAF
power needed to "light it up" and makes the output
frequency per real airflow drift low (lean) over time.
Your fuel trims will slowly drift positive and your A4
transmission will be given less line pressure. Being
over-enthusiastic with the oil, makes it worse.
GM has a TSB out saying to deny your warranty claim
on engine or trans complaints if they find one. Not
that it stops the dealership from selling them at the
parts counter....
#18
Teching In
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Originally Posted by LSWannabe
A smooth bellow connects the lid to the MAF.
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
>High flow filter clogs the MAF? I never had a problem.
It's the oil used on the filter, which accumulates as a
crust on the MAF sense elements. This raises the
thermal resistance to the airstream, lowers the MAF
power needed to "light it up" and makes the output
frequency per real airflow drift low (lean) over time.
Your fuel trims will slowly drift positive and your A4
transmission will be given less line pressure. Being
over-enthusiastic with the oil, makes it worse.
GM has a TSB out saying to deny your warranty claim
on engine or trans complaints if they find one. Not
that it stops the dealership from selling them at the
parts counter....
It's the oil used on the filter, which accumulates as a
crust on the MAF sense elements. This raises the
thermal resistance to the airstream, lowers the MAF
power needed to "light it up" and makes the output
frequency per real airflow drift low (lean) over time.
Your fuel trims will slowly drift positive and your A4
transmission will be given less line pressure. Being
over-enthusiastic with the oil, makes it worse.
GM has a TSB out saying to deny your warranty claim
on engine or trans complaints if they find one. Not
that it stops the dealership from selling them at the
parts counter....
#20
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iTrader: (24)
Originally Posted by Rameon01
a lid, bellows, and a catback will get you 380? are you serious? with my mods im only pushing 345hp/340tq to the wheels. or do you mean flywheel HP?
Sorry yea i meant flywheel. I think out of all the F-bodies, the blackbirds were most accurate in their ratings of 380, mods after stock being lid and catback.