valvetrain for turbo kit
#1
valvetrain for turbo kit
Hello, im looking to get into a turbo soon. While im in there installing it, i want to upgrade the necessary drivetrain. Car will be daily driver for summer months, stored winter, STOCK bottom end, and not a drag car, jsut street machine. I want to be as safe as possible with motor on the street. i was thinkin 6 psi for daily use, crank it up to 8 psi for some fun some days. Well anyway, im looking at the GMR kit mostly due to its completeness and price and great results. Ill get the fuel pump of course and 42lb injectors. Also what all is needed for valvetrain to help keep the engine safer. Springs and pushrods? Or what all should i do. I also want a decently sized cam ofr FI in there to help make a few more ponies. What cam/valvetrain mods do you think i need?
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#2
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Well personally I went with the LPE GT2-3 its the same cam they use in their TT Vette applications and is supposed to idle dead stock. The specs are almost identical to the ZO6 cam, I'd say go with either one. They are both great for boost. The cam with a set of ETP 5.3s is what I'll be installing over the summer and I'm hoping for 400rwhp so it should get you what you need. I'll have some LS6 springs for sale soon too if you want em let me know they will work with either of these.
#4
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Won't he see a lot more horsepower for every pound of boost he runs if he goes ahead and gets a cam? I say if you have the money go ahead and drop it on a good cam that'd get you some extra power.
#6
See thats what im here asking..... im not sure how much a FI cam will really help me. Exactly how big can i go and it still be boost safe? I only want to get a cam if im gunna pick up some noticeable ponies. And whether i get a cam or not, i need springs (LS6?) and anything else?
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#8
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Well you only wanna go with those springs with a mild cam like the ZO6 or LPE GT2-3 or stock since they are relativly mild anything bigger and the spring won't handle it. While your in their you might as well do pushrods and a ported LS6 oil pump if your switching the cam.
#10
alright well since a cam wont do me much i mise well not dig into it, so just some 918 springs and same length as stock hardened pushrods?
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#11
LS1Tech Co-Founder
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I'd do:
-ported oil pump
-918 springs
-Hardened pushrods
-Might consider an aftermarket timing chain
I just mention timing chain since the cars are starting to rack up some miles.
A cam could give you +30 to +40wrhp, IMO. Might be the difference between 430rwhp or 450-475rwhp cammin.
-ported oil pump
-918 springs
-Hardened pushrods
-Might consider an aftermarket timing chain
I just mention timing chain since the cars are starting to rack up some miles.
A cam could give you +30 to +40wrhp, IMO. Might be the difference between 430rwhp or 450-475rwhp cammin.
#12
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If you look at the mods I have in the sig, could give you an idea of things to do. I really wanted to lighten up the valvetrain and have some fun revving a little bit higher. I went with the following:
Ported Oil pump
918 springs
TSP Hardened pushrods
Titanium Retainers
Z06 valves
LS2 timing chain
I did a few other things but PM me if you ahve any questions.
Ported Oil pump
918 springs
TSP Hardened pushrods
Titanium Retainers
Z06 valves
LS2 timing chain
I did a few other things but PM me if you ahve any questions.
#13
Hey John, what size cam would you suggest i go with to get those numbers? Car has jsut under 40k miles BTW
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#14
LS1Tech Co-Founder
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Max shift points will be 6500?
I tend to like 224 or more intake duration, but that's because I don't like small cams. IMO small cams are not worth the money you spend. You end up having $700-1000 into a cam swap for 20rwhp.
I like stuff like 224/224// 113-115... You might want to check with your favorite parts provider and see what cam they would reccomend. Speed Inc. (Jim@ls1speed.com) might advocate like a 225/225//113 but I would just ask him. I've seen a number of folks reccomend single pattern cams so you can:
-pass emissions
-maintain good idle quality
-keep max rpm down
-support 6-9psi of boost
Remember LSA is just a number, and the higher the number the more (potentially) you might have to rev the motor to see that peak number and that peak number might be peaky, so while you might have a 480rwhp peak, you are only making 380rwhp at 6000 or something. Remember when you shift, you drop down to a given rpm. Whatever power you make at that rpm is the rpm you have to use. Racecars shoot for strong curves, almost flat lines, so that when they shift at 7500 at 800rwhp, they drop down to 6000 and are still making 750rwhp. It's a bit of a science.
I tend to like 224 or more intake duration, but that's because I don't like small cams. IMO small cams are not worth the money you spend. You end up having $700-1000 into a cam swap for 20rwhp.
I like stuff like 224/224// 113-115... You might want to check with your favorite parts provider and see what cam they would reccomend. Speed Inc. (Jim@ls1speed.com) might advocate like a 225/225//113 but I would just ask him. I've seen a number of folks reccomend single pattern cams so you can:
-pass emissions
-maintain good idle quality
-keep max rpm down
-support 6-9psi of boost
Remember LSA is just a number, and the higher the number the more (potentially) you might have to rev the motor to see that peak number and that peak number might be peaky, so while you might have a 480rwhp peak, you are only making 380rwhp at 6000 or something. Remember when you shift, you drop down to a given rpm. Whatever power you make at that rpm is the rpm you have to use. Racecars shoot for strong curves, almost flat lines, so that when they shift at 7500 at 800rwhp, they drop down to 6000 and are still making 750rwhp. It's a bit of a science.
#15
I have given a little thought to swapping the cam in my GTO. One issue is that the LS2 is a bit of a "mixed breed" engine with some older LS6 parts [cam, springs(?), head castings]. With the STS mine pulls very hard in the midrange, but fell off at higher rpm...so I think maybe springs aren't up to the task...so might as well do cam if I'm going to swap springs...and on, and on, and on...
If I do something with the cam, I'll likely talk to EdC and get him to brew something up.
If I do something with the cam, I'll likely talk to EdC and get him to brew something up.
Last edited by MTBDOC; 02-04-2006 at 08:43 PM.
#16
Alright, so if i decide not to do a cam, i should jsut do osme 918 springs and pushrods, but if i plan on doing a cam, while im i nthere i should do pump, retainers, valves, timing chain, springs, and pushrods?
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#18
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I would not bother with a cam for your street driver... don't know if I could justify the bang for the buck. When you do the cam you naturally want to do the oil pump and timing chaing too... and on a 40k mile car, I wouldn't worry about those components. You would probably be spending money on parts you don't really need. You are going to do fine on the stock cam - the turbo will push through all the air you need.
918's and hardened pushrods sound great. The springs will give you excellent valve control and the hardened pushrods will stand up to the extra stiffness of the springs, as well as a couple hundred more RPMs of safety. If you keep on going a little further, you are going to wind up replacing every d@mn part in the engine!
918's and hardened pushrods sound great. The springs will give you excellent valve control and the hardened pushrods will stand up to the extra stiffness of the springs, as well as a couple hundred more RPMs of safety. If you keep on going a little further, you are going to wind up replacing every d@mn part in the engine!
#19
Ok so negative on needing pushrods? And you think with a good dyno tune ill be safe running 10 lbs all day on stock bottom end?
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#20
haha ok i gotchya. Are valvesprings and pushrods and easy install? Ill prolly get those 2 valvetrain parts and not sure how high of boost ill run all day.
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