Drag Racing Tech - Post pics of your SJM ABS delete/LL install

I'm having trouble picturing exactly where these lines are supposed to be cut so I'm in need of some pics that will help me out. If I cut after the lines (where I keep the braided lines), I don't understand how they will snake around to reach the line lock line. From what I'm seeing, it looks like I'll have to cut the single conformed line coming from the LL pretty short, then somehow routing the braided lines to that fitting, but it just doesn't look like the braided lines will bend that much.

I'm just confusing the hell out of myself so I'm in desperate need of some pics!

Also, both wires coming from the LL are black and it says to ground the black one, so does it matter which one?

There should be a few pictures listed in the direction sheets. The wires...Whichever wire you use for positive, use the other for the negative. It doesn't matter since its a coil...thus the reason why they are both black:-).

The sample pictures should help. Shoot me an e-mail, I'll send you something that may help you more. I can help you also via phone and walk you through any step you may be confused a bit on. We mention the install as a variety of ways...the lines are pre-formed so that you don't use the braided lines. If you don't want to remove the braided lines (which can make it an easier install since you're working in a smaller area), you may leave them. It does make the install easier but not as clean.

Shoot me your phone number and I'll be happy to assist you.

Here's how I did mine. Don't be afraid to do alittle bending.

http://nitrousfedmuscle.com/images/ABS-delete.jpg

Here is mine. Mine is like Andrew's. I cut and flared at the end of the lines instead of the start.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/mdblackz28/clearlid.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/mdblackz28/underhood.jpg

that really cleans up the engine bay ...I might think about getting one

Did you guys use a tube cutter or something else for the cutting?

Steve, I'll give you a call if I confuse myself even more :jest:

A pipe/tube cutter from the plumbing section of the hardware store will do the job. Just make sure you use a file to clean up/bevel the cut real nice before you flare it.

You can use a hack-saw blade also rather easily...as mentioned above, clean the cut with a file before you flare it.

Also, so that you don't forget, even though it mentions it in the directions MAKE SURE YOU SLIP THE INCLUDED FITTINGS ON THE TUBE BEFORE YOU FLARE IT :-).

With the motor in the car its way easier to leave the braided lines ;)

It is easier to leave the braided lines...not as clean though.

KP you've boogered up your lines quite a bit. Send me your information via e-mail (i'm terrible with the nicknames on the boards), I'll send you new lines if you like.

Steve

It is easier to leave the braided lines...not as clean though.

KP you've boogered up your lines quite a bit. Send me your information via e-mail (i'm terrible with the nicknames on the boards), I'll send you new lines if you like.

Steve

Lines are OK Steve, if you remember one of the lines from the master had the wrong end on it and I just bent up a pre-made line to fit with an adapter. Its no show car and doest bother me at all. Nothing leaks and everything works so sometimes I dont fix what isnt broke ;) I should do it the right way now that the motor is out of the car but I'm too lazy..

Yeah, mine doesn't look hte cleanest, but it serves its purpose. Great product Steve :thumb:

pics of mine in my sig at photobucket

I've been thinkin' about that kit, for some time now..How do the brakes feel after the install??

I've been thinkin' about that kit, for some time now..How do the brakes feel after the install??

Brakes will not feel one bit different. The ONLY time ABS is ever used is when you are locking brakes...other then that, you're not using it at all. The proportioning valve enables you to fine tune your brake bias front/rear setting.

I just got mine in the mail today! Probably have it in this weekend...Also, didnt realize there are two switches... duh :thinker: haha

Everything is in and working, but there's one small problem. Whenever I press or release the momentary switch, I can hear a clicking noise in my speakers and some of my cluster lights dimly light up. Is there a short somewhere? I also have more brake pedal travel now than before but everything works fine, maybe I'll rebleed them later. Great product!

Brake pedal travel or any other normal braking feeling should not change one bit. It sounds like you may have air in your system.

It also sounds like you have something wired incorrectly. Make sure you overview the enclosed schematic diagram for quick reference to connections.

Call me if you need help, I'll be happy to help you.

Steve

Steve, I already have a SLP line lock, could your ABS delete be used with that? Lemme know if I have this right... the line coming from teh master cyl that goes to the lone lock, will then T after the LL solenoid to the front brakes, and the line off the master cyl that goes to the rear brakes goes thru the proportioning valve, and then T's to the rear brake lines correct? would it be easier to redo the rear brake line to a single and T it off in the back of the car, rather then having 2 seperate lines to at go to the back of the car? or, could I just run a single line from the proportioning valve to one of the rear brake lines, remove the other, and put a T end on it in the back of the car to go to both sides? I'm planning on doing a aerospace drag brake conversion eventually, just trying to get a better understanding on how exactly it's gonna work, and what I have to do.

The neverending list plan list of mods LOL.

Brakes will not feel one bit different. The ONLY time ABS is ever used is when you are locking brakes...other then that, you're not using it at all. The proportioning valve enables you to fine tune your brake bias front/rear setting.

Hey Steve, sounds like a lot of people are very happy with the kit, I'm glad I went ahead and got it. This thread seems like a good place to post a question I have about adjusting the brake bias, it might help some others out too. I know you use the valve to adjust it but how do you know how much to change it? Does it depend on tire size? Like for instance, I have the 27" in the back and 26" in front, how would I go about getting the brakes to work best?
Thanks,
Lou

JLWS6,

The SLP line lock solenoid will work with our kit. The kits are sold in different configurations for the folks whom already have one of our LL kits, SLP kits or a Hurst kit. Those kits range in pricing from 139.99-159.99 depending if you need a flaring tool or not. This kits are configured for both 4 channel and 3 channel cars. No need to redue all lines.

Rufretic,

In the back of the direction sheet, there is a guide for adjustments with a variety of symptoms and how to adjust the valve. Due to weight transfer, car load etc, line pressure, without the use of a proportioning valve brake pressures will be equalized throughout the brake lines. This can put too much pressure on the rear brakes. The rear breaks will have a tendency to lock first. If anyone has ever played around in a parking lot spinning around on snow or wet ground, they know the easiest way is to put the emergency brake on allowing the rear brakes to lock. If you don’t have any way to adjust the pressure by the use of a valve…. making a turn while applying brakes especially on wet surfaces can have unexpected results putting your car into a hazardous spin easily.

This is what you’re trying to avoid by using the valve. The valve allows you to decrease line pressures up to ~60%. The optimum setup is to have all four wheels lock at the same time. This will give the best results for stopping distances and control. You’re trying to take advantage of ALL four wheels to stop you. Once you start skidding on fronts or rears, static friction is overcome by kinetic friction takes place which result in longer stopping distances. I feel testing and adjusting this can be done on a wet surface easily. If you change tires, this will also alter your bias…depending on your setup, adjustments will not be equal from car to car…it is something that needs to be tested and adjusted accordingly.

Good luck guys!

Steve

possability of a GP anytime soon.

possability of a GP anytime soon.

We typically do not run GP's on any of our products. The price-points are at sales prices and worth every penny!

Steve

What are you guys doing with the huge abs harness when you remove the module?
Also, are these fittings available in something other than brass?

What are you guys doing with the huge abs harness when you remove the module?
Also, are these fittings available in something other than brass?

You can cut off the big mess of connectors (don't forget to remove fuse)! Better yet, remove all the wiring associated with it...it will drop a few lbs more.

With the kit the way it is designed, we have the brass fittings going to the back...you don't use the braided lines...when you install it this way, the brass is far down and out of the way. Putting the connectors in front of the braided lines makes them stick out a bit more.

Steve

Steve I sent you an email.

I looked on the website at the ABS delete and line lock kit. Looks/sounds like a good deal but I am weary of deleting the ABS for safety reasons since this car will be driven on the street?

Any comments/input?

Thanks
Andy

I looked on the website at the ABS delete and line lock kit. Looks/sounds like a good deal but I am weary of deleting the ABS for safety reasons since this car will be driven on the street?

Any comments/input?

Thanks
Andy

i havent had ABS for about 1.5 years and drive every day... works just fine... IMO abs is for people who dont know how to stop properly.... no 160+mph race car has abs

You can cut off the big mess of connectors (don't forget to remove fuse)! Better yet, remove all the wiring associated with it...it will drop a few lbs more.

With the kit the way it is designed, we have the brass fittings going to the back...you don't use the braided lines...when you install it this way, the brass is far down and out of the way. Putting the connectors in front of the braided lines makes them stick out a bit more.

Steve

steve im getting close to pulling my motor and would like to do the ABS delete when its out... but id also like to know what im getting into... can you email me the directions?

thanks,

Tyler

I looked on the website at the ABS delete and line lock kit. Looks/sounds like a good deal but I am weary of deleting the ABS for safety reasons since this car will be driven on the street?

Any comments/input?

Thanks
Andy

I see this question asked quite often so you're not alone. The kit would be considered "for off road use only" due to legality issues.

Concerns of braking differences...first, let me ask you, Have you ever used ABS before? The ONLY time you've used it is IF you've applied your brakes hard and started slipping...and felt your brakes pulse.

ABS is ONLY on when you feel pulsing in your brakes during hard stopping. IF you've never felt your brake pedal pulse THEN you've NEVER used ABS in your car. During the times you do not feel pulsing...they way your brakes feel....IF you removed ABS, your braking feeling would not change! Actually, since you're putting on an adjustable proportioning valve with the kit, you now have the ability to fine tune your brake bias....this is important especially when you start changing to different tires.

ABS is quite troublesome for any of you road racers or drag racers. It is also more expensive to add this "feature" to a rear-end as an option....the whole unit also drops quite a bit of weight AND increases room in the engine bay by removal of it. As per phone conversation with a recent customer today, they commented $ for $, it is a better mod regarding weight loss. For obvious reasons removing both is best :burn: .

I see folks posting about troubleshooting ABS or TCS quite often...allot of effort to retain something that is quite useless in road racing or drag racing applications (which what most of us set up the f-body for!).

I'd say, if you want to use the car to get groceries with and drive to the shop to get your nails done everyday...then leave ABS alone...dont modify the car at all...better yet, get a car that gets better gas milage and use that car! Save the camaro as your lesure fun vehicle...and modify it to your hearts content. Though the other car may cost $$, you'll end up saving in gas alone in a few years...dam gas prices!!

steve im getting close to pulling my motor and would like to do the ABS delete when its out... but id also like to know what im getting into... can you email me the directions?

thanks,

Tyler

We can get a kit out to you within a few days. Kits are in stock and orders are mailed out within 24 hours of ordering during business days. The kit is rather simple to install...without the motor..even easier!

Probably one of the concerns with removing ABS is some think that it changes the way the brakes work or feel...not true at all. The brakes work and feel just like they normally do during normal everyday braking.

Steve

Thanks for the replies Steve. As soon as some funds become available after I take care of some other small things on my car, I will call you to place an order. Looks nice in the engine bay and I planned on buying your line lock kit already. The ABS delete is an added treat. :)

Andy

We can get a kit out to you within a few days. Kits are in stock and orders are mailed out within 24 hours of ordering during business days. The kit is rather simple to install...without the motor..even easier!

Probably one of the concerns with removing ABS is some think that it changes the way the brakes work or feel...not true at all. The brakes work and feel just like they normally do during normal everyday braking.

Steve

so with the motor out im looking at spending about an hour on the ABS delete kit?

instructions do come with it right? and pictures? :emb:
thanks again steve.

so with the motor out im looking at spending about an hour on the ABS delete kit?

instructions do come with it right? and pictures? :emb:
thanks again steve.

There's instructions and pictures with it. It's an easy install. The worst part is bleeding the brakes...I hate bleeding brakes!

I ordered my abs delete/line lock kit the end of last week and got it today. It is such a nice package. Everything you will need is there. No way I could bend the lines and them look that good. Thanks for putting out such a nice package. Hopefully I'll have time to put it on soon.

Steve is the abs light on all the time after this kit is installed?Do you have a fix for this
condition?

LS1 cars, you need to remove the bulb in the dash, not too difficult, should take about 1-2 hours if you've never been in the dash before. There are just alot of hex-head screws to remove to get there. (all the same size so no worry about mixing them up).

LT1 3 channel setups, I have an easier fix that enables you to not have to go into the dash and remove the bulbs. Suggested directions with diagram is included in the kits.

Steve

my kit should arrive today :)

I've browsed through the selections for the different kits available and I have two questions:

(1) How do you determine whether you need a 3-channel or 4-channel kit?

(2) I see that some kits come without a line lock, and it has a notation at the bottom saying this kit is designed for people who already have _____ line lock kit. (example: a Hurst or SLP line lock) Is it absolutely necessary to have a line lock installed for this kit to work?

I've browsed through the selections for the different kits available and I have two questions:

(1) How do you determine whether you need a 3-channel or 4-channel kit?

(2) I see that some kits come without a line lock, and it has a notation at the bottom saying this kit is designed for people who already have _____ line lock kit. (example: a Hurst or SLP line lock) Is it absolutely necessary to have a line lock installed for this kit to work?

Answers:

1) 3 channel if you do NOT have traction control is the easiest way to tell. If you have traction control, you have a four channel setup. You need to order the kit according to which brake system you currently have.

2) You need a line lock for our kits. We sell them without the line lock solenoid and electrical kits for the folks whom already have a line lock kit. This saves them from having to re-purchase something they already have.

IF you do not have a line lock kit, you'll quickly see that for the money that is costs i.e. B001 abs delete kits, having a line lock AND custom electrical kit is well worth the small extra price. If you do not want to use it, just attach the line lock solenoid in place and don't connect the electrical components. At least in the future, if you want to use it, it is there ready to go!

Hope this helps,

Steve

I will install my kit on the weekend after i finish with this TC drama..

Whats the proper way to bleed the brakes?

Many methods.

Pressure bleed using a diagram container, gravity bleed, 2 person method, using a mid-vac, earl bleeder screws work pretty good if you don't have any of the above tools or friends to help.

nice stuff you got there

Ive been looking into deleting only my TCS system for a little bit, but after reading this post and seeing the LS1 car pics without the ABS im leaning toward deleting all of it. The TCS stuff is just always in the way with my ProCharger setup, hence why I wanted to delete it, but there would be WAAAAYYY more room without the ABS as well.

Does your 4channel ABS delete kit for 96-97 cars also delete the TCS/ASR modulator that normally sits below the ABS modulator?

If so, are there any electrical/BCM issues other than the lights on the dash?
I know the TCS features that concern the PCM can simply be turned off with LT1edit, but I always thought it was a BCM that actually controlled the ABS/TCS systems. I guess my only concern with the BCM is the Theft deterrent-Fuel disable signal to the pcm.

>EDIT<
I almost forgot, My TCS/ASR brake modulator has already been relocated to the pocket behind my headlight. (Would sit next to the factory air box if it would fit back in there.) I used the "ASR relocation kit" that Caroll Supercharging used to sell. A company called Blower Worx bought them out but still produces/sells the kits.

Thanks in advance

With our kits, you completely remove the entire bracket and modulator unit. You'll get dash lights obviously so they will need removed from the dash.

Steve

will abs being deleted effect my asr? I really hope so.

Traction control would be eliminated as well....pretty useless in our cars isn't it?

...none of these options work out well in a performance based car most folks race on the drag or race track. With the prices of gas, daily driving these cars as your primary car becomes less attractive every day.

I tell folks all the time..my car is no longer referred to the 800 hp monster, it is the 4-6 mpg gas hog.

Traction control would be eliminated as well....pretty useless in our cars isn't it?


I tell folks all the time..my car is no longer referred to the 800 hp monster, it is the 4-6 mpg gas hog.

I live in FL where its real easy to get caught in the rain, so TCS is nice for that. But since were bringing gas mileage into the picture, Im getting 5.5-6,mpg right now. Further eniticing me to drive her only on the weekends. If Im not gonna be doing too much street driving, the TCS crap is just extra weight and extra headaches when the time comes to work on her.
To top it off, I dont even know if my ABS works. Ive never 'Used it' at all, and dont plan to so thats a no-brainer now.

Wouldnt actually removing all the hardware including the BCM controls be the correct way to deal with the dash lights? Call me a gluton-for-punishment, but I think Id rather do the extra work of making sure the PCM and BCM do not activate lights, rather than simply removing the lights themselves.
I guess I just like to work too much :eek2:

Steve, thanks for all the valuable info. As soon as I get this timing cover deal straightened out, I'll be getting with you to order my 96-97 4-channel kit.

fire,

Not going into the dash is always the best route...LS1 dash electrical system doesn't allow to easily shut off the lamp by modifying a wire that leads to the lamp. LT1 is a bit different...we do have suggested directions for 3 ch. LT1 setups included in the kit...

when removing the abs all together.. what else needs to be removed from the vehicle besides the abs unit up front. id like to take it ALL out and not just cut wires. anything to remove at the wheels under dash and so forth. i just got my kit from sjm yesterday and will start working on it today. motor is almost out. just the short block sitting in there.

SVC,

Not sure of your user name, so I can't see if you have an LS1 or LT1. If you have an LT1, the ABS computer under your drivers kick panel can be removed.

Taking out all the wires will reap the best weight removal...not to mention get rid of a the thick loom present from the wires. You'll have to just trace them back to remove them...just follow them in the looms...too difficult to try and explain this one. If you have traction control, you can completly remove the whole traction control module. There will be a GM throttle cable you'll need from GM (non TCS cars)...this part number should be listed as well.

If you need additional assistance, feel free to call or e-mail me directly. I can walk you through it.

Steve

i dont have traction control.. so i bascially have to open up all the looms, remove the tape and just follow to where they will basically unplug. is there another control unit besides the block.

so if I take the ABS off I have to take the TCS off too? thats fine I didnt like it anyway!! now are their any advantages to removing all this or is it just for clean up and weight purpous(spelling?) Im interested becouse I have had the ABS problems with slicks and front runners alot the car is for the most part just a weekend/track toy with a little DD

so if I take the ABS off I have to take the TCS off too? thats fine I didnt like it anyway!! now are their any advantages to removing all this or is it just for clean up and weight purpous(spelling?) Im interested becouse I have had the ABS problems with slicks and front runners alot the car is for the most part just a weekend/track toy with a little DD

Yes, TCS will be removed. There are many advantages of removing ABS:

1) weight removal
2) better air flow for engine cooling
3) enables you run turbo/sc setups much easier
4) easier control with various tire combo's
5) removes additional cost/hassles with troubleshooting ABS/TCS
6) lowers cost of aftermarket rear-axle assemblies

Kind of a related question since I'm doing my brakes and brake lines right now (Thanks for the flare kit Steve) so from the pictures I'm seeing that the proportioning valve only connects to the rear brakes? and you reduce the line pressure on just the rears to avoid overpowering the front or so it's not 50/50 brake bias all the time????

Just wondering cause i'm probably going to hold off on connecting my rear brake line till i get the proportioning valve.....

That's correct. Proportioning valve is for the rears only but controls front/rear bias.

sweet thanks...... i guess the fronts get 100% line pressure all the time and you just reduce the backs to adjust bias..... cool.....

sweet thanks...... i guess the fronts get 100% line pressure all the time and you just reduce the backs to adjust bias..... cool.....

The front and rears receive ~50% pressure without a proportioning valve. With the use of the valve, you can reduce rear pressure up to ~57%. This then places more bias towards the front brakes.

I'd advise the use of the valve so you can fine-tune your brake bias. Without it, the rear has a tendancy to lock up before the fronts due to weight proportioning, weight transfer and other variables.

Normally, the ABS system controls your braking system...obviously when it is removed, there is no computer controllability. For the folks thinking "well its better to keep it on the car", if your ABS is deactivated, not working, or thinking it still is using the OEM diameter wheels when your are not...you have no feedback, or for incorrect size tires not work properly thus one of the reasons why your ABS activates when you don't want it to.

Here's how I did mine. Don't be afraid to do alittle bending.

http://nitrousfedmuscle.com/images/ABS-delete.jpg

So this is how a 3 channel will look? (A car with ABS only)

And the other photos that show two rear lines and two front lines are four channel? (A car with TCS and ABS)

About how much weight reduction can be expected with the ABS delete kit?

About how much weight reduction can be expected with the ABS delete kit?

I think the weight reduction is up to 14 lbs if you also remove the harness.

That's pretty close shevrolayz28.

14-16 lbs is about the typical. LT1 setups loose a bit more since their components are heavier. If you have traction control, all in all, about 20lbs will be removed on an LS1.

does the kit come with all the directions for removing all the TC and what brake lines go where?

So you it's best to order the LL along w/ the ABS delete kit? I don't have a need for the LL but I just want to be sure I understood you 1st.

Thanks.

So you it's best to order the LL along w/ the ABS delete kit? I don't have a need for the LL but I just want to be sure I understood you 1st.

Thanks.

You NEED the line lock solenoid. If you do not have one, you need our kit that includes it. It is only a 40.00 option of which you can't even purchase a LL solenoid alone for that price PLUS when you purchase the LL, you receive the entire electrical kit as well.

We only offer the kit without a LL for the folks whom already own one. We offer it this way so that those customers do not need to re-purchase a component they already have.

Thanks! Any particular part # I need to select? This is for an 93 LT1.

If you don't have a double flare tool, we offer that as well.

For the 93, you have 3ch ABS, so you'll need either SJM-1ABSX1 (complete kit with flare tool) or SJM-1ABSX2 (complete kit without flare tool). Be certain to select "3 channel" option upon checkout.

All kits are in stock.

i ordered mine yesterday. unfotunalty im not gonna lose tht much weight, i already took out the cruise control/tcs box thats infront of the front left tire, and went w/ the shorter tb cable.

any idea of how much just the abs box and bracket weighs?

thanks
brandon

Thanks Steve. I'll be calling tomorrow. You don't ship using US Postal Office by chance do you? Stationed overseas and that's how we get our mail.

So this is how a 3 channel will look? (A car with ABS only)

And the other photos that show two rear lines and two front lines are four channel? (A car with TCS and ABS)
that looks good nice and clean. im going to get me one of those.

Thanks Steve. I'll be calling tomorrow. You don't ship using US Postal Office by chance do you? Stationed overseas and that's how we get our mail.

We typically ship UPS for these items. Give us a call and we can assist you with your request.

Email sent by Nathan G. I have a few q's for ya.

If you don't have a double flare tool, we offer that as well.

For the 93, you have 3ch ABS, so you'll need either SJM-1ABSX1 (complete kit with flare tool) or SJM-1ABSX2 (complete kit without flare tool). Be certain to select "3 channel" option upon checkout.

All kits are in stock.

Steve, any chance you'd be willing to cut me a deal on a partial SJM-2ABSX1 kit? I need everything except the solenoid and proportioning valve. :)

Well thanks to this thread, I ordered mine yesterday.

I just got done installing mine a couple hours ago. The SS lines are a bitch to double flare but I finally got it. I'll post pics up sometime this week. The ABS module and bracket weight in at exactly 10.5 lbs on an LS1 car.

Steve, any chance you'd be willing to cut me a deal on a partial SJM-2ABSX1 kit? I need everything except the solenoid and proportioning valve. :)

Steve, are you out there? :)

Call me. I'd suggest returning your original proportioning valve since you'll need additional fittings and mounting bolts for it anyways, I'm not sure if it will adapt to our system... I don't know what solenoid your using.

The kits I'd suggest is 139.99...it depends which style though since I don't know the solenoid.

...call me 724 478 5580

Steve,
Last summer I removed the TCS stuff out of the engine bay that I could, to remove clutter, and now I want to finish up the cleaning by getting rid of the abs junk... is it possible I could get a 3 channel kit instead of a 4 channel? My hesitation to buy a 4 channel kit is that in the future I'd like to replace the current 10 bolt to a 3 channel 9" rear end, and so I assume I wouldn't be able to use the 4 channel kit at that point, right? Thanks for your help!

Steve,
Last summer I removed the TCS stuff out of the engine bay that I could, to remove clutter, and now I want to finish up the cleaning by getting rid of the abs junk... is it possible I could get a 3 channel kit instead of a 4 channel? My hesitation to buy a 4 channel kit is that in the future I'd like to replace the current 10 bolt to a 3 channel 9" rear end, and so I assume I wouldn't be able to use the 4 channel kit at that point, right? Thanks for your help!

Just so you know unless your planning on re-running your rear brake lines that wouldn't work. Steve correct me if I'm wrong but it's my understanding that the cars that cam from the factory with a 4ch system have 2 lines running from front to back for left and right brakes. Those with 3ch from the factory have 1 line running to the rear that splits this is the main reason for the different kits...


BTW Steve, I was thinking about getting SJM-1ABSX1, and just wanted to verify this is all that's needed if I already deleted the TCS control box on my valve cover...

Just so you know unless your planning on re-running your rear brake lines that wouldn't work. Steve correct me if I'm wrong but it's my understanding that the cars that cam from the factory with a 4ch system have 2 lines running from front to back for left and right brakes. Those with 3ch from the factory have 1 line running to the rear that splits this is the main reason for the different kits...


BTW Steve, I was thinking about getting SJM-1ABSX1, and just wanted to verify this is all that's needed if I already deleted the TCS control box on my valve cover...

I guess I was thinking there might be a sort of 2-to-1 piece that would take both of the rear channels, and then have a single coming out of the other end (baically joining the two into one)... Otherwise, if I end up getting a 3 channel rear-end in a few years, is it possible to leave one of the channels in the 4-channel kit open, or cap it off or something? I'm just trying to figure out a way to be future proof...

Outdooricon. I'd highly suggest not even purchasing any channels on your rear-end. Typically, it is less expensive to purchase a rear-end without ABS...no sense in paying for pieces you don't use. It doesn't really matter which way you choose the rear-end...just a little advise.

The only reason why we need to know which channel ABS you currently have is the fact we include different components for the two setups. 3 channel cars only have one line leading to the rear...LT1/LS1 setups are also different and use different diameter tubing. You'd want to order the setup and indicate 4 channel.

No matter if you purchase a rear with ABS, 3 channel or 4, you'll just connect the rear lines to the rear-end the way they are now.

1slowformula is correct regarding how lines run...keep in mind, different tubing diameter is used within LS1/LT1 combo's...as long as upon checkout you indicate which channel and which part number you need...We'll do the rest for you.

1slowformula, that is the kit that you'd need if you need the double flare tool. If you have a tool, you'll need SJM-1ABSX2 which is 20.00 less.

Hey steve, can you post the part number for the non TCS throttle cable for a 99? I forgot to write it down when I was back home for spring break. The kit looks great BTW. :)

Well, I feel like an idiot... I wouldn't want to buy a rear-end with ABS, or Traction Control... But it's been so long since I was looking at them that I didn't even remember you could buy a rear with no channels. So Steve, what happens if I bought a no-channel rear-end in two years, after having your kit set-up for the original... it basically won't work anymore, right?

Well, I feel like an idiot... I wouldn't want to buy a rear-end with ABS, or Traction Control... But it's been so long since I was looking at them that I didn't even remember you could buy a rear with no channels. So Steve, what happens if I bought a no-channel rear-end in two years, after having your kit set-up for the original... it basically won't work anymore, right?

OK I hope this doesn't come off badly, but I don't think you grasp what this kit does, the differences between the brake lines and system and the rearend sensors...

First thing I shoud say is stop thinking about it as though they were linked. The kits SJM sells is to remove the ABS distribution block in the brake system. This is where the you might be getting confused, that distribution block is different for cars that came with 3 or 4 ch ABS systems. The rearend hold sensors for that tells the system to work, If you remove the system it does not matter if you have a rear with or without sensors, because there is now system... Like myself I have a 4ch car, but when I swapped the rear I took off all the rear sensors and wireing, but still have the distro block, and this is why I am going to get the kit to remove that heavy block from my engine bay since I don't have the ABS hooked up anyhow...

Thanks for the info John, I think I understand now... so, the reason Steve needs to know which channel my car is, is because if it's 4 channel, there are two brake lines coming from the rear versus 2. However, that isn't what makes the car 4 channel, it's the electrical sensors and whatnot that make it 4 channel. So, I could get a no-channel rear end in the future and still run two brake lines to the rear. Thanks for the help guys!

Thanks for the info John, I think I understand now... so, the reason Steve needs to know which channel my car is, is because if it's 4 channel, there are two brake lines coming from the rear versus 2. However, that isn't what makes the car 4 channel, it's the electrical sensors and whatnot that make it 4 channel. So, I could get a no-channel rear end in the future and still run two brake lines to the rear. Thanks for the help guys!
That's it :thumb:

What a great thread from the dead. :burn:

Perfect for those wanting to install a 9" rearend !

Here is mine. Mine is like Andrew's. I cut and flared at the end of the lines instead of the start.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/mdblackz28/clearlid.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/mdblackz28/underhood.jpg

Very nice Matt!I
Im wonder though instead of coming out of the porportional valve and going over with a short line to another block to meet the stock lines, if you could just put on a diffrent coupler on the end of each of the porportioning valve themselves and bring both lines over derictly to the porportioning valves themselves

I finally got around to doing mine. I used SJM's kit and I also made a little L-shaped bracket to mount the prop valve. (I hate drilling holes in the car, fortunately, there were already holes right where they were needed.)

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=755&pictureid=50723

Heres my Lt1 set up. I didnt see in my directions how to delete the ABS light now I cant find them.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d53/achotrod/linelock041.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d53/achotrod/linelock042.jpg

Wow cleans up the engine bay alot,I will be picking this up shortly Steve at SJM is a true pleasure to deal with.

I guess steve is no longer a sponsor?

lets see some more updated kits! I just ordered mine.

How much adjustment are you using on the prop valve? I did not need any to keep the brake balance like stock.

That looks awesome AChotrod! I ordered a setup thursday and can't wait to get it done!

Need a quick question answered from you guys:

How do you know if you used to have 3 or 4 channel? Is it the number of lines coming off the ABS block? If so I had 2 coming in from the master, and 4 going out.

Also, does this kit have all the T's that I need? I want to order this and not need to run and grab any other parts

Thanks!

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj19/djfury05/DSC_0089800x531.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj19/djfury05/DSC_0129.jpg

Need a quick question answered from you guys:

How do you know if you used to have 3 or 4 channel? Is it the number of lines coming off the ABS block? If so I had 2 coming in from the master, and 4 going out.

Also, does this kit have all the T's that I need? I want to order this and not need to run and grab any other parts

Thanks!

if you have 4 lines to the block then you have a 4 channel rear if only 3 lines then its a 3 channel rear

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj19/djfury05/DSC_0089800x531.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj19/djfury05/DSC_0129.jpg

Man that looks clean nice ride.....

For what it's worth there cars braking feels so much better after abs delete.