ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

ok, so im about to get started and realize my driveshaft didnt get sent out to me so im like screw it, im gonna start on it anyways, so i go ahead and spray paint the rear for now (got por15 for it later ) and i get to taking off everything from the old one and pulling the axles. Here are my questions. Im going to be getting started on this first thing in the am so i could really use the help tonight please!!
*do i need to go and buy the 3/8"-24 nuts and washers?? what are they needed for specificlly?
*what are the tbolts for?
*what is the best way to assemble it? center section installed outside the car and then install the rear or just the housing first, then the centersection?
*What are the torque specs for all the bolts?
* what keeps the axles from falling out?? I didnt see anything in the center section that they would lock into?
*Exactly what needs to get pressed onto the new axles and what do i need to use from the old ones?

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I haven't done one yet, but my understanding is, you will want new bolts for the Torque Arm mounting to Rearend. If retaining your ASR, you will need to have a shop press the old reluctor rings off the stock axles, and then onto the new axles. I was under the impression the 9" uses a 4 bolt system to affix the axles to the housing ends. I do recall having a friend hitting the track after the break in period was done, didnt double check the axle to housing bolts the shop installed...made a pass and sparks flew, returned to the pits, and I found two nut and bolt assemblies missing, one nut laying in the parking brake housing, and the other one was loose. We were able to scrounge around the pits and found suitable replacements and he was good. Just from me to you, double check everything and dont hesitate to use some red locktite!

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

that helps!! after thinking about it more and more and looking at all the parts, it started to make some sense. Im just still a bit confused on the order everything is supposed to be pressed on.

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

the new axle bearings need to get pressed onto the new axles with the backing plates. the order is slide the backing plate over the axle, the the bearing with the o ring towards the backingplate, then the press ring.

yes you do need the 3/8-24 nuts as they hold the back plates on the housing with the t bolts

J&J Speed Shop

iTrader: (8)

*do i need to go and buy the 3/8"-24 nuts and washers?? what are they needed for specificlly? They bolt the center section to the housing
*what are the tbolts for? They attach the brake backing plates which retain the axles

*what is the best way to assemble it? center section installed outside the car and then install the rear or just the housing first, then the centersection? I usually assemble the whole thing then put it in the car

*What are the torque specs for all the bolts? T bolts I just make tight with a 3/8 air ratchet, usually the same thing on the housing bolts

* what keeps the axles from falling out?? I didnt see anything in the center section that they would lock into? See Question 2

*Exactly what needs to get pressed onto the new axles and what do i need to use from the old ones? If you have TCS you need the tone rings, those will have to be transferred to the new axles, then the backing plates, followed by the bearings which are pressed on

BigKap94z

iTrader: (47)

How are you guys tighten the T bolts...on my Moser I could only get a short socket on a 1/4" ratchet in there to tighten, there was no way a 3/8" ratchet would fit...believe me i tried.

ChiTownHustler

iTrader: (3)

Well with a star axle flange you can. However ones with regular axles I usually use a boxed, or ratcheting box wrench and tighen them, or a box wrench with a socket made for it. I believe craftsman sells them

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

well i got her in. it was fairly simple once i figured things out. between 1-10 on difficulty, id say maybe a 6, but it took some time. what about the brake brackets that used to bolt to the top of the old center section? do i just zip tie those too? I found the fill plug, but its weird cause its at the bottom...how the hell do i drain it?? if i gotta pull the center section off, thats gonna suck!! thanks for all the help everyone!!

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

The fill plug at the bottom is your drain plug, or should be. The fill plug should be on the rt side as the pumpkin arc's down toward the axle tube, or in the center top of the rear portion of the pumpkin, been a while since I messed with one. GL

Charlie

Demon_Speeding

iTrader: (24)

I spent a little extra for a drain plug. Mine's on the very bottom of the section. Also, on my driver's side axle tube is a vent. I pull the fitting out and fill my rear there.

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

mine has the breathe there too. ive began to fill it from what i thought was the drain plug, but its filling so far ive got almost 2 qt's in there. if it over fills before the 4th, ill try to use the breather. i know DLS installs a drain plug. I wish Moser would do it on their own