TB Porting Tips
01-25-2006, 06:32 PM
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TB Porting Tips I am about to port my throttle body. I already have taken it off my car, and I am just waiting to finish porting my MAF. I would like some tips on exactly what to port with I guess. Using a dremel powered by an air compresser, I have managed to go through 2 grinding bits on the MAF alone and it has taken me all day. The TB seems to be much more work and I would like to know if theres an easier way to grind this down or any type of advice you are willing to give.
Seriously, what am I doing wrong?
Seriously, what am I doing wrong?
01-25-2006, 06:59 PM
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I used a 3/4" sanding drum in an electric die grinder,
slowed down with a Variac. You could use a drill. The
3/4" drums are cheap (Black & Decker), can be had
coarse, and last a hell of a lot longer than Dremel.
Hard stones are pretty useless on aluminum, they load
up to easily.
I guess you missed the part about "don't hog out the
precision instrument" (MAF).
There are a couple of good how-tos floating around for
TB porting. LS1info.com I think, try digging on a site where
the search engine isn't dysfunctional.
slowed down with a Variac. You could use a drill. The
3/4" drums are cheap (Black & Decker), can be had
coarse, and last a hell of a lot longer than Dremel.
Hard stones are pretty useless on aluminum, they load
up to easily.
I guess you missed the part about "don't hog out the
precision instrument" (MAF).
There are a couple of good how-tos floating around for
TB porting. LS1info.com I think, try digging on a site where
the search engine isn't dysfunctional.
01-25-2006, 07:07 PM
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Thanks for the info.
Actually I have done extensive research on this site about porting both the MAF amd the TB (as I do with everything I do toi my car, this is a great site). I read its seems to be 50/50 between who gains HP or losses HP and am well aware that the gain may be a placebo effect. However, I looked in the MAf and saw the big obstruction. Figurin that the reason Im rushing all these mods is because I'm getting my car tuned within 2 months, it seemed porting the MAF couldn't hurt.
Besides I'm just the kinda guy that needs to learn things the hard way, I have proved this to myself many times.
Ill try the sanding drum. But about the sanding, how important is a smooth finish really?
Actually I have done extensive research on this site about porting both the MAF amd the TB (as I do with everything I do toi my car, this is a great site). I read its seems to be 50/50 between who gains HP or losses HP and am well aware that the gain may be a placebo effect. However, I looked in the MAf and saw the big obstruction. Figurin that the reason Im rushing all these mods is because I'm getting my car tuned within 2 months, it seemed porting the MAF couldn't hurt.
Besides I'm just the kinda guy that needs to learn things the hard way, I have proved this to myself many times.
Ill try the sanding drum. But about the sanding, how important is a smooth finish really?
01-25-2006, 07:08 PM
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Thanks but Ive read just about every howto, as a matter of fact I have 5 of them printed siting in my shed. I just need some answers to silly questions those didnt cover.
01-25-2006, 07:14 PM
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OK, since this is asked a few time here and there:
With the TB off the car, take both sensors off(you will need a T-20). Take some brake clean and clean the inside real good and wipe it down. Take a Sharpe and trace were the blade is at rest(idle) to use as a guide to know were to stop porting to so you will not over port. Take a T-15 and take the screw out of the TB blade and open the throttle wide open and slide the blade out of the back. Take a deadblow or brass hammer and just knock the throttle shaft out, there is a washer that is pressed on that will come off. Be sure to be prepared for the return spring to unwind
, itll get ya if your not expecting it. Now with the TB apart you can remove the lip that is just in front of were the blade was and bell mouth the rest by blending it in to the rest of the housing. Take the throttle shaft and you will see that the front half can be removed so just take a saw or Dremel with a cut off wheel and cut to the edge of the slot on each side. You will notice that one sides slot is longer than the other side, cut to the shortest one. Take the blade, screws, 2 #6 washers and the throttle shaft and assemble it without the housing so you can trim the screws. After trimming the screws disassemble and clean everything. Put the spring back on the shaft and slide it back into the housing like it was and hold the throttle wide open again to slip the blade back in from the back. Slowly close the throttle and then when at the idle position center the blade in the housing by wiggling it at around until it is centered. Take the trimmed screws and washers and dab some Loctite 262 on the threads and screw er down and tighten. The TB is assembled . The throttle stop mod is simply trimming material away from the stop until full throttle is achieved. Reusing the washer that was pressed on the end of the shaft is not needed.
With the TB off the car, take both sensors off(you will need a T-20). Take some brake clean and clean the inside real good and wipe it down. Take a Sharpe and trace were the blade is at rest(idle) to use as a guide to know were to stop porting to so you will not over port. Take a T-15 and take the screw out of the TB blade and open the throttle wide open and slide the blade out of the back. Take a deadblow or brass hammer and just knock the throttle shaft out, there is a washer that is pressed on that will come off. Be sure to be prepared for the return spring to unwind
, itll get ya if your not expecting it. Now with the TB apart you can remove the lip that is just in front of were the blade was and bell mouth the rest by blending it in to the rest of the housing. Take the throttle shaft and you will see that the front half can be removed so just take a saw or Dremel with a cut off wheel and cut to the edge of the slot on each side. You will notice that one sides slot is longer than the other side, cut to the shortest one. Take the blade, screws, 2 #6 washers and the throttle shaft and assemble it without the housing so you can trim the screws. After trimming the screws disassemble and clean everything. Put the spring back on the shaft and slide it back into the housing like it was and hold the throttle wide open again to slip the blade back in from the back. Slowly close the throttle and then when at the idle position center the blade in the housing by wiggling it at around until it is centered. Take the trimmed screws and washers and dab some Loctite 262 on the threads and screw er down and tighten. The TB is assembled . The throttle stop mod is simply trimming material away from the stop until full throttle is achieved. Reusing the washer that was pressed on the end of the shaft is not needed. Trending Topics
01-25-2006, 07:19 PM
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Thanks Bo, you seem to have been the go to guy for getting a TB ported. Sorry to refuse u besiness, but Im cheap and will do anything myself if I can.
About the sanding, what will happen if I dont sand all that well?
About the sanding, what will happen if I dont sand all that well?
.....other than that youl never know it.
01-25-2006, 08:18 PM
#11
You'll want something like this for the bulk of the material.. (RAPID removal) http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/p332.jpg
i used a sanding disc flapper wheel (dremel size) to smooth it out, looks fabulous, went very very fast.
i used a sanding disc flapper wheel (dremel size) to smooth it out, looks fabulous, went very very fast.
01-25-2006, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Bo White
OK, since this is asked a few time here and there:
With the TB off the car, take both sensors off(you will need a T-20). Take some brake clean and clean the inside real good and wipe it down. Take a Sharpe and trace were the blade is at rest(idle) to use as a guide to know were to stop porting to so you will not over port. Take a T-15 and take the screw out of the TB blade and open the throttle wide open and slide the blade out of the back. Take a deadblow or brass hammer and just knock the throttle shaft out, there is a washer that is pressed on that will come off. Be sure to be prepared for the return spring to unwind , itll get ya if your not expecting it. Now with the TB apart you can remove the lip that is just in front of were the blade was and bell mouth the rest by blending it in to the rest of the housing. Take the throttle shaft and you will see that the front half can be removed so just take a saw or Dremel with a cut off wheel and cut to the edge of the slot on each side. You will notice that one sides slot is longer than the other side, cut to the shortest one. Take the blade, screws, 2 #6 washers and the throttle shaft and assemble it without the housing so you can trim the screws. After trimming the screws disassemble and clean everything. Put the spring back on the shaft and slide it back into the housing like it was and hold the throttle wide open again to slip the blade back in from the back. Slowly close the throttle and then when at the idle position center the blade in the housing by wiggling it at around until it is centered. Take the trimmed screws and washers and dab some Loctite 262 on the threads and screw er down and tighten. The TB is assembled . The throttle stop mod is simply trimming material away from the stop until full throttle is achieved. Reusing the washer that was pressed on the end of the shaft is not needed.
With the TB off the car, take both sensors off(you will need a T-20). Take some brake clean and clean the inside real good and wipe it down. Take a Sharpe and trace were the blade is at rest(idle) to use as a guide to know were to stop porting to so you will not over port. Take a T-15 and take the screw out of the TB blade and open the throttle wide open and slide the blade out of the back. Take a deadblow or brass hammer and just knock the throttle shaft out, there is a washer that is pressed on that will come off. Be sure to be prepared for the return spring to unwind
, itll get ya if your not expecting it. Now with the TB apart you can remove the lip that is just in front of were the blade was and bell mouth the rest by blending it in to the rest of the housing. Take the throttle shaft and you will see that the front half can be removed so just take a saw or Dremel with a cut off wheel and cut to the edge of the slot on each side. You will notice that one sides slot is longer than the other side, cut to the shortest one. Take the blade, screws, 2 #6 washers and the throttle shaft and assemble it without the housing so you can trim the screws. After trimming the screws disassemble and clean everything. Put the spring back on the shaft and slide it back into the housing like it was and hold the throttle wide open again to slip the blade back in from the back. Slowly close the throttle and then when at the idle position center the blade in the housing by wiggling it at around until it is centered. Take the trimmed screws and washers and dab some Loctite 262 on the threads and screw er down and tighten. The TB is assembled . The throttle stop mod is simply trimming material away from the stop until full throttle is achieved. Reusing the washer that was pressed on the end of the shaft is not needed.If you didn't, well, you should.
I swear, 5 years ago there was hardly any info when I
ported mine. There were some brave souls that took the
plunge and I just took a look and did the deed.
It is great that the information (like your post!) is out
there now for the newbies.
Since you seem to know your stuff as a TB porter, perhaps
you could dissuade folks from the idea that there is a
"certain voltage" any given TB/ TPS sensor must read to be
at a 90* open state; and that there is indeed a WOT
voltage that will set a code.
Best,
gwj
01-25-2006, 08:24 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by gwj
Since you seem to know your stuff as a TB porter, perhaps
you could dissuade folks from the idea that there is a
"certain voltage" any given TB/ TPS sensor must read to be
at a 90* open state; and that there is indeed a WOT
voltage that will set a code.
Best,
gwj
you could dissuade folks from the idea that there is a
"certain voltage" any given TB/ TPS sensor must read to be
at a 90* open state; and that there is indeed a WOT
voltage that will set a code.
Best,
gwj
I was planning on measuring the voltage, but what is the "right" way to do it?
01-25-2006, 09:08 PM
#15
Hey Bo,
You mind updating the throttle body porting website?
http://www.geocities.com/wilwaxu/throttlebody.html
I'm sure you can do a better job. Anything you want to change, update or throw away, I'm game.
You mind updating the throttle body porting website?
http://www.geocities.com/wilwaxu/throttlebody.html
I'm sure you can do a better job. Anything you want to change, update or throw away, I'm game.
01-25-2006, 09:10 PM
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I dont mind. I will then change my sig link. May be this weekend before I sit down and do a better job than what Ive put here. May even see if I can add pix of step by step.
