vMaster0fPuppets

iTrader: (6)

I should hsve known. Of coarse a pulley swap is a lot more complicated then it seems to be, what itsn't.

Ok so I got everything ready for the swap. Now I cant get the goddamn pulley puller on the pulley because the fans and some steel lines are in the way.

So, what are the actual steps I need to take in order to swap pulleys? Remove fans? those lines? and if so how?

If its too damn difficult im just gonna have someone else do it.

mean02Z28

iTrader: (6)

You shouldn't have to remove anything. All I did was tie the AC hose out of the way. It's also possible that your puller might be larger than it needs to be. I think the one I used was a 3 or 4 inch puller. It doesn't take a very large puller to do the job.

Chris

vMaster0fPuppets

iTrader: (6)

maybe ill try to rent a puller from autozone, mines atleast 8 inches long

SS1875

iTrader: (34)

I rented a three jaw puller from Auto Zone...it was about 3-4 inches long, zip stripped the AC hose out of the way and the rest was pretty easy. Dont forget to use a new crank bolt....use the old one to install the pulley and torque it to 240 ft/lbs then use the new bolt for the final torque spec..I believe it is 35...not sure on that one.

SS1875

iTrader: (34)

Dont forget to thread lock the new Crank Bolt.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i think the one i rented was a chrysler type puller.whatever kind it was it worked flawless.

Griswold

iTrader: (5)

use threaded rod to pull the new pulley on, NOT a longer bolt.

Zeus

+1

I heard about this AFTER I did my pulley "swap" and now I've spent over $200+ on tools to try and repair my f'ing crank and I still haven't finished.

I got a 3' threaded rod from an online store for 7$. Definately worth it knowing what I know now.

vMaster0fPuppets

iTrader: (6)

Could you plewase explain exactly what a threadid rod is, does, and what could happen if I dont use one?

dws6

Any 3/8 threaded rod?
Does if have to be hardened or can it be the **** from Home Depot?

I am curious as well, I am installing an ATI balancer next week.

Zeus

ummm, if you guys are installing a pulley the bolt's an M16 (roughly 5/8).

Basically the threaded rod is like a really long bolt with no head on it. You can put a nut on it from bolt ends. What I plan on doing with it is screwing the rod in all the way to the bottom of the crank hole, then use a flanged nut I bought to install the pulley.

Basically without a threaded rod or longer bolt, it's a real huge pain the the frikken *** to get the pulley off. When I've done mine I actually had to place a deep socket directly on the crank snout in order to get the pulley off. This isn't really that big of a deal, but putting the pulley back on is the really dangerous part. Basically the pulley needs to be "pulled" on using the bolt. It's really hard to put it very far up on the crank snout. I even tried heating mine up several times and I couldn't get it more then mabe 1/4". The stock sized bolt is just barely long enough to touch the threads at this point, so you basically only get to thread the bolt maybe a thread or two. This places a huge load on those few threads, and you're in serious danger of stripping them.

dws6

sorry about that, I just guessed at the size. So an M16, does it have to be hardened or anything else special. Or just a 12" piece of Zinc allthread will do?

I dont want to be breaking off the rod.

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

Just go to http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

Scroll down, and notice that it gives you a nice step-by-step write up on how to swap a pulley with lots of pictures, so it's IDIOT proof !

Zeus

ya, it's an M16 x 2.0 thread pitch rod. I could only find it in 1m lengths and I ordered a zinc one and a regular carbon steel one. I couldn't find any hardened ones, but I'm hoping I don't need them. Basically the purpose is to get all the threads on the crankshaft to share the load instead of just the first 1 or 2 if you tried to use the stock bolt.

I cut it down to about 10" with a chopsaw, and used an angle grinder to cut a little slot in the top. This basically turns it into a headless screw. I also bought a flanged nut and some big honkin' washers while I was at it. Now I'm just trying to think how to tighten the nut down without having to buy a 24mm super deep socket. I got the radiator/fans out a few minutes ago, now I just need to ride my bike 8 miles to go get the correct sized drill bits . I'll let you know how it goes.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Get the crank pully tool from the tool section to put it on . Torque to 250 loosten, torque to 35 then turn 180 degrees.

vMaster0fPuppets

iTrader: (6)

what is this crank pulley tool? Is it for rent at Autozone? and if so what is it's name so I can ask for it?

6spd

iTrader: (3)

just ask for a 3 arm pulley puller and its 40 bucks deposit which you get back when you return it.

mean02Z28

iTrader: (6)

This is the basic principle behind installing the crankshaft balancer, using the appropiate tool. The actual tool can be purchased through Kent-Moore tools or through a local Mac, Snap On, Matco, etc guy. It is expensive though. Whether it can be rented locally or not, I'm not sure. Your best bet is to just make your own version of the tool. You'll probably only use it once and it's cheap. Goodluck with your install.

Chris

Zeus

how does that puller work? I see it pushes on the crank snout, but what does it use to hang onto the pulley? Does it latch on in back?

mean02Z28

iTrader: (6)

That's a picture of a balancer install tool. A typical 3-4 inch, three jaw puller is all that's required to remove the balancer.

Chris