insulate clutch hydro line?
02-17-2006, 06:39 PM
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insulate clutch hydro line? what works best to protect the hydrolic line from the heat that my headers put out.beacause i dont have my heat sheild anymore.and if that fluid has been exposed to that kind of heat should i change the fluid?
02-18-2006, 06:57 AM
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Most people cut a piece of high temp fuel line lengthwise and slip the braided line inside of it to insulate it from the exhaust heat. Brake fluid is clear so if the fluid in your clutch isn't clear you should change it.
I've read that there may be two causes of the fluid turning black, heat and aluminum contamination from the slave cylinder. To deal with the heat, just insulate the line and buy a good quality DOT 3 or DOT 3/4 synthetic brake fluild with the highest boiling point you can find. Although there are many debates on using anything other them GM brand DOT 3 fluid. FWIW, I've not had any problems with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3/4. If you don't have the stock heat shield anymore, then you want to P-clip the hose to the firewall and do whatever you can to keep the hose away from your exhaust.
Regarding the aluminum contamination, I don't know too much about this, but I read on Textralia's site that some of the slave cylinders have interference between the aluminum casting and the rotating portion of the slave and the spinning contact "polishes" the aluminum, leading to the black residue / contamination in the fluid. That is why they also sell there own plastic slave cylinder. Actually I think the explaination is in the description for their plastic slave. This would be tough to confirm unless you send a new fluid sample and a used fluid sample from you car to a lab that does oil analysis. They would be able to tell if the fluid is cooked or contaminated, or both.
I've flushed my fluid but it's slowly getting darker, but I need to insulate my line. Again, I assume it is heat related but it could also be Al contamination. I have Jet Hot long tubes with just the factory heat shield (practically worthless), so I need to insulate the line, but I also need to do the drill mod on the oil line so I've been dragging my feet because I hear getting the master cylinder out and back is not fun, and not looking forward to going through the whole bleeding process.
I've read that there may be two causes of the fluid turning black, heat and aluminum contamination from the slave cylinder. To deal with the heat, just insulate the line and buy a good quality DOT 3 or DOT 3/4 synthetic brake fluild with the highest boiling point you can find. Although there are many debates on using anything other them GM brand DOT 3 fluid. FWIW, I've not had any problems with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3/4. If you don't have the stock heat shield anymore, then you want to P-clip the hose to the firewall and do whatever you can to keep the hose away from your exhaust.
Regarding the aluminum contamination, I don't know too much about this, but I read on Textralia's site that some of the slave cylinders have interference between the aluminum casting and the rotating portion of the slave and the spinning contact "polishes" the aluminum, leading to the black residue / contamination in the fluid. That is why they also sell there own plastic slave cylinder. Actually I think the explaination is in the description for their plastic slave. This would be tough to confirm unless you send a new fluid sample and a used fluid sample from you car to a lab that does oil analysis. They would be able to tell if the fluid is cooked or contaminated, or both.
I've flushed my fluid but it's slowly getting darker, but I need to insulate my line. Again, I assume it is heat related but it could also be Al contamination. I have Jet Hot long tubes with just the factory heat shield (practically worthless), so I need to insulate the line, but I also need to do the drill mod on the oil line so I've been dragging my feet because I hear getting the master cylinder out and back is not fun, and not looking forward to going through the whole bleeding process.
02-18-2006, 08:30 AM
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thanks alot for the input the other day when i was looking at the hydro line i noticed how close it was.but ive also had a grinding type noise from a stop to start in first i moved that piece of rubber up between that line and the header and no noise since im gonna insulate it and it should be good to go its amazing how something so little can make a noise like something more expensive.
