pHEnomIC

iTrader: (14)

I am interested in getting some type of welding setup. I want to be as cheap as possible and it be good if i could run it off of electricity (Don't need to get a gas tank and refill it.) I have a little bit of experience but I do need to practice some.

I want to be able to weld misc. things. In particular I would like to be able to do things like subframe connectors and exhaust work. Anyone have any recommendations on the type of setup i should get and possibly any deals out there?

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

I would recomend 220v and using gas is a big plus. 110v welder will struggle with subframe connectors, I tried.
http://cgi.ebay.com/MILLERMATIC-DVI-...QQcmdZViewItem
something like this is reasonable. 110/220 if you really have to use 100 its there, and 220 is there too.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

www.weldingdepot.com They have some nice deals on Clarke equipment.

pHEnomIC

iTrader: (14)

Thx for info.
Is there anything that would work in a cheaper price range, I just want to have a welder just to have one for small things if i need it. Do i need a special inverter or something for the 220 volt?

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

I just bought a Lincoln 225A AC arc welder ($275-ish at Home Depot). It runs on 220V. 220V is the power coming in to your home (two phases). An electric dryer connection would be 220V.

The arc welder isn't as pimp as a MIG or TIG, won't produce as nice welds, but it will get the job done with subframe connectors. It also does not require gas, just welding sticks (which are like $10/box). I spent just under $400 total, including the welder, 2 boxes of sticks, a 50A 220V outlet face and box, couple of chipping hammers, brushes, a book, and some wire (which I'm going to take back because I didn't use it). Now, my wiring won't "pass code" officially because I only have a 40A 220V breaker in my shop, but I just won't run the welder at full tilt.

Only thing is, I don't think an arc welder would do well on thin stuff - it'll burn a hole in it. For that, a wire feed 120V welder would do the trick. Some of those you can run flux core or gas shielded.

pHEnomIC

iTrader: (14)

Im kind of interested in the lincoln setup, thats in my range. Is exhaust piping too thing for that?

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

If you're just going to tinker around, go to Home Depot and look at the Lincoln welders there. They have some that are 120amp and under for decent pricing and will weld just about anything up to 3/16th's. That is plenty and these are mostly under the $400 range. Then if you want to weld something thicker, you can just v-groove the metal...or use several other methods to join the metal.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

I think the Lincoln could handle exhaust piping, as long as you turn the current down and use one of the smaller sticks. I haven't done it myself tho.

At Home Depot, they had several types of sticks to choose from. Sitting next to the welder was a book on welding, and in the chapter on arc welding, he actually described the characteristics of the different Lincoln sticks. I chose 2 styles based on his comments. Low splatter / decent bead kind of sticks. And the welder came with a stick sampler (about 10 sticks). Some of those splattered like crazy, but others did not.

Here's the Lincoln welder:

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...eet.asp?p=2493

BanditTA

iTrader: (3)

Shoot for a mig welder easy to learn and master. I'd recommend a miller, but an entry level miller will run around 600. Hobart is made by miller and are about as good, those can be had for under 500. Also the latest trend is gasless (fluxcore wire) stay away from it, yes its cheap but produces crappy welds and requires way to much heat not to mention its dirty as hell. Remember you get what you pay for, a welder from walmart isn't gonna cut it.

cbrich

Miller and Lincoln are good welders, I prefer Lincoln over Miller, just make sure you get a 220v welder. Mig welding is the easiest to learn, I recommend learing with a stick welder because if you can arc (stick) weld, you can mig weld. I recommend Lincoln PowerMig 215 or MillerMatic 210 for a beginning welder anything smaller is just a waste of money. Fluxcore wire is used for outside welding with a mig, welding finish is similar to stick with a lot of splatter.

Thin metal is best welded with .025 solid wire (exhaust pipe, body panels). .035 is the standard wire diameter and can weld exhaust, lightest being 14 gauge but have to move quickly without burning holes and warping will occur. The thickest I have ever welded using .035 wire is 1 inch but it required several passes, anything 1/2" or thicker I switch over to .045 wire.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

I've been using the above AC arc Lincoln for a couple weeks now, and I just gotta say, I love that welder. Yeah, having to fiddle with welding sticks is a bit of a pain, but the welds it has produced on my rear end are quite acceptable. I guess I didn't realize how big of a POS my Campbell-Hausfeld 105A 120V welder is, until I started with this Lincoln.

The Wolfe drag bar has some pretty thick metal that has to weld to the rear axle tubes. The Lincoln arc handled that no problem. The Cambell-Hausfeld was a joke on attempting those welds.

I also love my auto-darkening helmet. It's a Harbor Freight model, got it for around $60, works great.

Brady

iTrader: (3)

Andrew, you're killing me. They're called welding RODS not sticks

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Well, you knew what I meant. I've never used 'em before, so I can get away with calling them "doohickeys" if I want.

Silverback

Add a tig torch with a valve and a bottle of argon and you can use that lincoln as a scratch start TIG

Rabidbandit

I've had a 110v Lincoln 135Pro for about 3yrs and love it. I've welded aluminum, stainless, and mild steel with no problems. Lincoln has a huge parts availability at Lowes and Home Depot. Yes, Miller is better unit, but at a premium price tag. The main reason for staying 110v is the portability. Most places I use it doesn't readily have 220 around....with 110, I can run it off a small generator in my trailer or plug it in anywhere for quick fixes. Aluminum is kind of a weak point...gas is pricey, need .045 alum. wire and maybe a gun liner....and only enough amps for about 1/8in. You can go more but you have to preheat the aluminum in an oven, otherwise your heat will just absorb through out the work and you will burn through or lose penatration. Mild and stainless can be welded with ease. I use 75%argon-25%Co2 for an all around mix for both metals. 1/4in. steel plate is no problem as long as you have a good outlet with 12guage wiring and a 20amp breaker (15amp might trip under full load). Stainless exhaust is easy as mild steel...I have used mostly .030 308 stainless wire. It doesn't leave a shiney weld, but does the job and can be used for mild steel or combining the two (stainless tip to aluminized exhaust) once in a while. Help this helps.

tickey8

BRADY i need to know what is going to work best with my BBC in my 4th gen street/strip car what K-MEMBER and HEADERS will work together

Brady

iTrader: (3)

PM me for best results.

But to answer your question as asked, there are ZERO combinations of off the shelf parts that will work without modification. We have, however, had good luck using the PA-Racing K-member and the hooker #2455 headers . You'll have to move the #3 primary to clear the steering shaft, you'll need to clearance the firewall below the heater box, and you'll need to modify the k-member at the rear mounting point on the drivers side for header clearance.

Thanks and please pay at the second window.
...Brady

78LT383

I also have the Lincoln 220V AC "stick" welder. I bought it from a guy who was moving out of the area (retired and hitting the road or something like that) for $50 with a welding jacket and a small box of electrodes/welding rod. I have since bought several boxes of electrodes from local hardware stores and a welding shop and have welded up to 1" plate with it (long range rifle targets, of course multiple passes required). For the small investment, it's a great tool to have around, but it's certainly not as good as a quality (Miller/Hobart) MIG welder. It's better at welding than I am, but even a DC "stick" welder would be better for those with the budget for it.