lrk322

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys,

I recently had 2.5 dual exhaust run over the axle. As you can see in the picture below, the driver side pipe is almost resting on my BMR adjustable panhard rod. The only solution I have found is the BMR panhard rod relocation kit which costs $190. I really don't need this as I have no clearance trouble on my upper panhard rod.

A lower panhard rod with a dip in it in where the pipe rests would solve the problem. Does anyone know if someone makes a panhard rod like this? Any other solutions you could reccommend?

zspot98

iTrader: (87)

I am pretty sure that the only thing that you can do is get the PHB relocation kit. I have yet to see a PHR that are not straight pieces.

poolshark021

iTrader: (8)

BMR makes a relocation kit that comes with a pre-bent phr.

FstBlkz28

iTrader: (13)

As far as I know, there are not prebent panhard rods for the lower one. The relocation kit lowers the lower panhard, but it also is run in a different fashion that the stock upper one, so you might have clearance problems with the upper one if you got the BMR reloc. kit.

Unfortunately, its alil late for this ... but when I had my duals over the axle. I removed the Upper panhard from my car completely, that gave Lane more room to work, and allowed him to get better clearance on the lower panhard.

300bhp/ton

More of a wild card option. But you could always convert the panhard to a Watts linkage. It shouldn't be that hard to do and would probably solve your clearance issue. Plus a Watts linkage is superior in lateral axle location to a panhard.

EDIT: http://www.tsmmfg.com/Watts_Linkage.htm

Lane

iTrader: (1)

lrk322

iTrader: (11)

wow. That looks awesome. Theres an idea. Ill ask sam strano what he reccommends. That looks very cool, I'll have to do a search on it. I was looking to go less expensvie but if Im gonna spend $200 for a relocation bracket and I can sell my old panhard for $60 I would come out on top.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

BFH is a good option.

BackinBlack02SS

iTrader: (7)

Just remove the upper panhard "brace" and you will have tons of clearance to move the pipe around.

Lane

iTrader: (1)

Yes - I just glanced at first at thought it was already removed, but now I see it's still there. Take that sucker off! Unless you're road racing or auto-crossing, it's dead weight.

I removed mine for weight savings, but took them all off on over-the-axle jobs I did.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

So to fit a pipe over the drivers side of the rear axle all you need to remove is that one part?

Could someone draw an arrow or something or show how it's done...thanks.

Also is that a custom bent pipe or is a pre-made mandrel pipe?

lrk322

iTrader: (11)

For my purposes and over cautiousness I think BFH is my best option. On one hand no one has ever had a problem after removing their upper phb that Ive heard of, on the other hand I talked to Sam Strano on his board and for my particular suspension set up he didn't reccommend the upper phb removal. I realize Im being overly cautious but I don't want to take a .9999999 just because Im like that. Sam didn't reccommend relocating the phb with the kit.


So from what Lane and Sam have told me it looks like a hammer is my best option. I suppose even if I bang the driver side pipe down to a one inch at one point I'd still have a 3.5 inch exhaust becuase a 2.5 inch runs on the passenger.WOuld 1 inch on one side and 2.5 on the other cause any problems? My only concern is if this will negatively effect the sound of the exhaust or majorly effect performance on my fairly stock set up. If not, then hammer it is. As a last option I still have my corsa but I dont want to give up that duals sound!

The following post scared the sh** out of me! Scroll down and you'll see what Im talking about. Opinions please! This guy's name says he builds race cars...


http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...wtopic=6926&hl=

Heres what his post said

"Your exhaust is now the bump stop on the left side - it puts bending load onto the panhard and side load onto the threaded shank of the panhard end bushing. The exhaust is putting a lot of heat on plastic fuel lines and the rubber brake line to the axle. The car should not be driven this way - the fuel lines will melt and spray 43psi fuel on your exhaust, torching the car, and possibly the occupants.

Or... the exhaust heat will boil the brake fluid in the axle to chassis brake line, causing reduction or total loss of braking force. Not good.

Or... Accumulated stress on the threaded panhard end will cause it to fracture on a big bump, causing the axle to flop around, driving a tire into the chassis. Lots of dynamic thrust angle and intermittent locking of the rear wheels. This is bad, too.

To fix this properly:
Replace fuel lines with a higher temp rated material, rerouted and heat shielded from the exhaust heat.
Ditto on the brake line.
Install panhard lowering lowering brackets - http://unbalancedengineering.com/ sells some nice ones.
Replace the panhard ends.
All of this stuff should be done by a competent shop - not the shop that installed this exhaust.


Or... Change the exhaust routing back to the stock location.

True duals have been popular on the general hot rodding boards for very outdated reasons - you'll find a pretty low opinion of them on boards that cater to objective measures of performance, like here.

True duals offer:
No increase in HP
Increase in weight
Poor choices for routing
Loss of ground clearance
Negative impact on heat sensitive parts of car
More expense "

Lane

iTrader: (1)

Those boys are all well intentioned. But the web-site name says it all - Roadracing and Autocross. If you're doing that, then leave the support brace on. Mine was off of my car for two years without issue - with about 150 passes at the drag strip - not to mention daily driving.

As for their other statements:

True duals offer:
No increase in HP - that, well that's just a very uneducated statement.

Increase in weight - headers and duals(dumped) reduce weight by 90lbs compared to a stock manifold, Y, cat-back system. Checked that on a scale at my old shop. An entire true dual(dumped) system usually weighs about 30lbs, depending on mufflers.

Poor choices for routing - this is valid, mostly if running over the axle.

Loss of ground clearance - Not if built properly.

Negative impact on heat sensitive parts of car - Again, not if built properly.

More expense - $420-$550 for a dumped system compared to $350-$1200 for some cat-backs only - NOT including the Y pipe. No, their usually less expensive.

lrk322

iTrader: (11)

Yeah I thought alot of his statements were off about duals and more cost and weight. He just scared me with my brakes going out and my car lighting on fire. I didnt invert my fuel lines but I wrapped them in adhesive heat shield wrap instead. Hopefully that will be enough. I noticed my exhuast is pretty close to the brake lines so I think I'll wrap them too. That is scary though about the brakes failing from too much heat. I dont think Ive ever heard a story of this happening to someone though. The shop that did it got the best clearance they could from the brake parts as well. So hopefully my car will stay cool.

Lane

iTrader: (1)

Lane - it's very easy to flip your fuel lines. Takes about 5-10 minutes on a lift, or with the car jacked up enough. Simply doing that will give the fuel lines plenty of clearance. On the first system I had on my car I never even thought about flipping them - or if it could be done. So I wrapped them too, but the wrapping came off - and my system was about 2" from them in one area, at the most - for about a year with no problems. I checked them after long drives and they weren't even warm..

The brake line issue is a possibility if the system is resting on them, or if it's very close and you're driving very fast for long periods of time - like with road racing. Exhaust temps for road racers get crazy high, and brakes are used to extreme levels.

Good luck and enjoy your car.

lrk322

iTrader: (11)

Ill just throw some adhesvie heat shield on the brake lines themselves as long as it wont cause any problems.

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

or some wood in the vise and squeeeeeeze it a little bit...

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

i thought BMR made a lower bracket to relocate the PHB 1-2" down to allow this..

is this not right?

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

It relocates the passenger side mounting. Not drivers side

lrk322

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys, Just letting you know that with some pounding and rebending we were able to get it to work with the upper phb still in place and just a small cut out of it. There is no banging now, problem solved. It was a pita to get this done but well worth the sound!