glitch77

Im getting an SES of "Knock sensor 2 low input voltage bank 2". And am getting 3.9 degrees of KR at WOT at all times.

Do I need a new sensor? How hard are they to change?


Thanks!

glitch77

Where can I buy them? From the dealer?

This is gonna be a pain. <img border="0" alt="[cry]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />

Predator

If you just have the one code (P0327 or P0332) you need to change the sensor. It involves pulling off the intake, installing new sensors, and then making an RTV dam around the rubber boots that cover the kncok sensors. Get yourself a new wire too because it's difficult to remove it from the knock sensors without damaging it. I did this three times and I damaged the wire every time. Also, when you reinstall the intake, be careful not to crush the wire. You might as well change both knock sensors while you're at it.

Predator

Either a dealer, or gmpartsdirect.com.

KS: part# 10456603
WIRE: part# 15372170

glitch77

RTV damn, could you explain a bit!


Thank you for your help, hopefully this will fix my 3.97 KR troubles as well as get rid of the code. (It runs at 4deg KR now that the sensor is out, but I was getting the infamous "1998 3.9 KR" problem.

Predator

GM has a Knock Sensor TSB (technical service bulletin) with instructions to remove the foam under the intake (because it wicks and holds moisture), and to use red RTV silicone (you can buy it at any auto parts store) to create a "dam" around the the rubber boots that are installed above the kock sensors to prevent water from soaking the knock sensors (again). You do this, of course, after you swap out the faulty sensor. It would be a good idea to lay some RTV around the hole where the wire enters the rubber boot, as well. Do a "knock sensor" search here and you should be able to find the actual service bulletin. The knock retard you're seeing is a result of the bad ks that probably got wet and shorted out. Good luck!

glitch77

Is the GM PART # 15372170 the wire that fits on the round connectors on those mentioned knock sensors? I got some sensors, the ones you listed, and my wire do not match, I couldnt use them if I wanted to. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

They snap on with little connectors that snap over a bump, like on the MAF and AIT.


Any help?

<small>[ March 22, 2003, 08:53 PM: Message edited by: glitch77 ]</small>

glitch77

TTT, Ive got my car in peices and I need quick help. I hope I havent screwed myself over. <img border="0" alt="[cry]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />

Predator

That's the correct part number for the wire, #15372170. The number should be located on the wire itself, and yes, that wire attaches to those knock sensors, #10456603. I'm not sure what the problem is unless they gave you the wrong parts??

glitch77

Let me re-explaing and apologize for beings a numbskull in this thread. I dont usually spell this bad, and talk so incoherantly, but Im running on about 0 sleep, so bear with me.

I couldnt get the wire from the dealer, they said they cant get it ( <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" /> ). So Im going to have to order the harness from that gm parts store online and wait for the damn thing to get here before putting my car back together.

I havent done anything to an engine ever, especially one with this much stuff on it (being the ls1 and all), so Im pretty damn scared that Im gonna screw something up.

Anyhow, thank you so much for your time, and hopefully I get it all going!

Predator

No problem dude, just relax, you'll get it fixed. You might as well just chill-out until the wire arrives. That dealership is full of crap!

If you run into any problems, feel free to contact me, either here or e-mail. At the very least, let me know how it turns out.

glitch77

I hope it doesnt take a week to ship, then a week to get here. Sheesh... It says 7 to 10 days before it even ships. Well... time to get to cleanin I guess!

Thanks for the help Predator. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

glitch77

One more thing Mr. Smarty Pants <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" /> . Do you know about the origional LS1 intake? How does that round thingy (technical term) come out of the back end of it? Its where the manifold pressure sensor (I assume thats what it is) and the brake booster line (?) hook on. Can it even be removed? Im trying to clean it out, and its giving me troubles. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Predator

I looked at my old LS1 intake, and I see what you mean, but I wouldn't take that out. You might end up with a leak when you reinstall it.

A lesson I've learned about cars, and taken to heart, is: If it ain't broke, don't fix it! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Predator

You're welcome dude. Glad to be of some assistance.

As I recall, gmpartsdirect.com needed to special order that wire for me, too.

Keep me posted.

glitch77

Hey, by the way, while Im doing all this, I think Ill get a MAFT. My Ltrims are nuts (+11), would the translator be able to richem me up enough to get to, say, the -3 range?

Though I might do something productive with my money while Im waiting. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Predator

Now you're opening up a can of worms <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> .

If you have a stock maf, I wouldn't mess with the maf table, or skew the signal with a MAFT. You can certainly get the LTFTs negative that way, but you'll most likely lose precious timing. You could tune the WOT setting with a MAFT, and leave your LTFTs at +11. If you plan on getting LS1 Edit, the Injector Flow Rate table is the best way to adjust LTFTs; even then, if you have stock injectors, I prefer that that table remains stock too. My car runs great with positive LTFTs. I'd buy, or save up for LS1 Edit, instead of a MAFT.

glitch77

I just cant win! LoL...

Predator

Well, when you get your wire and replace your ks, you'll get rid of your SES light, and restore your timing, at the same time. That would be a great "win."