Longtube help..
#1
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Longtube help..
I've made the effort of searching for about two hours on all I need to install pacesetter longtubes. But I need to fill in the blanks...
1) Will the pacesetter longtubes come with copper "D" port header gaskets? The picture at summit for no EGR and AIR accommodations show square header gaskets. I was going to buy the Fel-Pro "D" port gasket, but I'm trying to spend the least. However, I'm buying the LT's WITH AIR and EGR accommodations.
2) I hear I need 24inch-preferably 12inch- o2 sensor extensions. I can't find them on Summit or a legit site, so does AdvanceAutoParts carry any?
Thanks for any help
1) Will the pacesetter longtubes come with copper "D" port header gaskets? The picture at summit for no EGR and AIR accommodations show square header gaskets. I was going to buy the Fel-Pro "D" port gasket, but I'm trying to spend the least. However, I'm buying the LT's WITH AIR and EGR accommodations.
2) I hear I need 24inch-preferably 12inch- o2 sensor extensions. I can't find them on Summit or a legit site, so does AdvanceAutoParts carry any?
Thanks for any help
#3
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i have the same headers, and i used these o2 extensions:
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=4&pcid=54
they were plenty long, and good quality. Scroll down to oxygen sensors and simulators. I got the 24" flat 4 extensions. If you're not deleting the rears, you'll need the square 4 extensions as well.
As for gaskets, i got the felpro's from summit. I would recommend a copper gasket.
The headers come with mounting bolts, and, if you're good with a soldering iron(i mean good, not just knowing how to use one) the bare wire and heat shield that come with the headers is meant to make your own o2 extensions. It is important to get a good solder, because the signal sent from the o2 is sensitive and can throw off your true readings by the time it reaches the pcm.
hope this helps
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=4&pcid=54
they were plenty long, and good quality. Scroll down to oxygen sensors and simulators. I got the 24" flat 4 extensions. If you're not deleting the rears, you'll need the square 4 extensions as well.
As for gaskets, i got the felpro's from summit. I would recommend a copper gasket.
The headers come with mounting bolts, and, if you're good with a soldering iron(i mean good, not just knowing how to use one) the bare wire and heat shield that come with the headers is meant to make your own o2 extensions. It is important to get a good solder, because the signal sent from the o2 is sensitive and can throw off your true readings by the time it reaches the pcm.
hope this helps
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I also got the felpros gaskets and am very happy with them. I tried soldering the o2 wires and ended up going with the extentions from thunder racing. If you ever have to change o2 sensors it will save you from having to solder them again.
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Originally Posted by ec_nova
i have the same headers, and i used these o2 extensions:
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=4&pcid=54
they were plenty long, and good quality. Scroll down to oxygen sensors and simulators. I got the 24" flat 4 extensions. If you're not deleting the rears, you'll need the square 4 extensions as well.
As for gaskets, i got the felpro's from summit. I would recommend a copper gasket.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=4&pcid=54
they were plenty long, and good quality. Scroll down to oxygen sensors and simulators. I got the 24" flat 4 extensions. If you're not deleting the rears, you'll need the square 4 extensions as well.
As for gaskets, i got the felpro's from summit. I would recommend a copper gasket.
I really don't know how this is played out, where are the sensors going to, the end of the header where it has the hole?
Also, the fel-pro gasket is Steel core laminate, but you recommend copper? Doesn't it come with copper header gaskets
#7
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No, the Pacesetter headers come with cheap cardboard style gaskets. I went with the Fel-pro 'D' port gaskets and some Stage8 stainless locking header bolts. If you get their y-pipe, you will need to get some heat wrap to protect the fule/brake lines or move the fuel/brake lines. I bought some heat wrap from Summit and wrapped a couple of wires on the passenger side. If you are going with their y-pipe I would recommend getting some 3" stainless stepped band clamps instead of using their clamps. The band clamps hold well and make it a lot easier if you need to take the y-pipe apart.
Last edited by JL8Jeff; 03-01-2006 at 10:44 AM.
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#8
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yea the gaskets that came with them looked like crap i didnt even bother. As far as the y-pipe is concerned, i used the pacesetter offroad y and didnt have any problems with it coming near any lines.... just getting it on wasn't so fun. I welded it into one piece to help with leaks.
Stock wires were destroyed by the headers so be careful. I got the taylor over-the-valvecover wires and couldn't be happier. They were a bitch to put together but well worth it, they look great.
Stock wires were destroyed by the headers so be careful. I got the taylor over-the-valvecover wires and couldn't be happier. They were a bitch to put together but well worth it, they look great.
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Yeh I figured I'd get new spark plugs and wires so I don't have to do this again. I was looking at the "Already made" wires at http://www.elitesparkplugs.com/LT1sparkplugwires.html . Anyone recommend them?
What kind of band clamps are you talkin about JL8Jeff? Something like part #WLK-33272 at summit?
What kind of band clamps are you talkin about JL8Jeff? Something like part #WLK-33272 at summit?
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Originally Posted by Ralls
Yeh I figured I'd get new spark plugs and wires so I don't have to do this again. I was looking at the "Already made" wires at http://www.elitesparkplugs.com/LT1sparkplugwires.html . Anyone recommend them?
What kind of band clamps are you talkin about JL8Jeff? Something like part #WLK-33272 at summit?
What kind of band clamps are you talkin about JL8Jeff? Something like part #WLK-33272 at summit?
#11
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Originally Posted by dirtybird96
I tried soldering the o2 wires and ended up going with the extentions from thunder racing. If you ever have to change o2 sensors it will save you from having to solder them again.
#12
Not trying to hi jack, but I just ordered these from AZ racing on EBay....what do I need to install them? I have never done exhaust before:
1993-1997 Camaro, Firebird Long Tube LT1 Headers with Matching Off-Road Y-Pipe
Excellent quality exhaust headers BRAND NEW long tube exhaust headers including matching off-road y-pipe
Fits 1993-1997 Camaro/Firebird 350 cu.in LT1. Part # 70-2239
These are Off Road headers (NO A.I.R. OR EGR)
The head flanges are 3/8" thick steel, CNC-machined for accurate fit with a true "D"-shaped port. The 16-gauge primary tubes are 1¾"-dia. with a smooth four-into-one design with a 3" Collector. O2 sensors fittings included, as is extra wiring, connectors, and shrink sleeve to extend O2 sensor harnesses
Developed and manufactured by Pacesetter
THESE HEADERS ARE VERY EASY TO INSTALL
Includes matching 3"-diameter off-road Y-pipe (#82-1161) for joining the header to the exhaust system
Thanks guys,
Devon
1993-1997 Camaro, Firebird Long Tube LT1 Headers with Matching Off-Road Y-Pipe
Excellent quality exhaust headers BRAND NEW long tube exhaust headers including matching off-road y-pipe
Fits 1993-1997 Camaro/Firebird 350 cu.in LT1. Part # 70-2239
These are Off Road headers (NO A.I.R. OR EGR)
The head flanges are 3/8" thick steel, CNC-machined for accurate fit with a true "D"-shaped port. The 16-gauge primary tubes are 1¾"-dia. with a smooth four-into-one design with a 3" Collector. O2 sensors fittings included, as is extra wiring, connectors, and shrink sleeve to extend O2 sensor harnesses
Developed and manufactured by Pacesetter
THESE HEADERS ARE VERY EASY TO INSTALL
Includes matching 3"-diameter off-road Y-pipe (#82-1161) for joining the header to the exhaust system
Thanks guys,
Devon
#13
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Originally Posted by JL8Jeff
Yes, that's the clamp you want. I used those to clamp the y-pipe to the headers, the y-pipe together and where the y-pipe connects to the cat-back pipe. I've been able to take everything back apart to realign the y-pipe, then to trim the cat-back pipe again and this past weekend I put dual cats in the y-pipe. No leaks, holds good and tight and can be takebn apart. If you ever need to drop your tranny you need to remove the y-pipe. I'm using the MSD 8.5 wires with no problems, I just made sure they stay away from the header tubes.
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Originally Posted by 87turbo2
Not trying to hi jack, but I just ordered these from AZ racing on EBay....what do I need to install them? I have never done exhaust before:
1993-1997 Camaro, Firebird Long Tube LT1 Headers with Matching Off-Road Y-Pipe
Excellent quality exhaust headers BRAND NEW long tube exhaust headers including matching off-road y-pipe
Fits 1993-1997 Camaro/Firebird 350 cu.in LT1. Part # 70-2239
These are Off Road headers (NO A.I.R. OR EGR)
The head flanges are 3/8" thick steel, CNC-machined for accurate fit with a true "D"-shaped port. The 16-gauge primary tubes are 1¾"-dia. with a smooth four-into-one design with a 3" Collector. O2 sensors fittings included, as is extra wiring, connectors, and shrink sleeve to extend O2 sensor harnesses
Developed and manufactured by Pacesetter
THESE HEADERS ARE VERY EASY TO INSTALL
Includes matching 3"-diameter off-road Y-pipe (#82-1161) for joining the header to the exhaust system
Thanks guys,
Devon
1993-1997 Camaro, Firebird Long Tube LT1 Headers with Matching Off-Road Y-Pipe
Excellent quality exhaust headers BRAND NEW long tube exhaust headers including matching off-road y-pipe
Fits 1993-1997 Camaro/Firebird 350 cu.in LT1. Part # 70-2239
These are Off Road headers (NO A.I.R. OR EGR)
The head flanges are 3/8" thick steel, CNC-machined for accurate fit with a true "D"-shaped port. The 16-gauge primary tubes are 1¾"-dia. with a smooth four-into-one design with a 3" Collector. O2 sensors fittings included, as is extra wiring, connectors, and shrink sleeve to extend O2 sensor harnesses
Developed and manufactured by Pacesetter
THESE HEADERS ARE VERY EASY TO INSTALL
Includes matching 3"-diameter off-road Y-pipe (#82-1161) for joining the header to the exhaust system
Thanks guys,
Devon
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Originally Posted by Ralls
So I should buy three then? Is the reason for getting these "stepped" clamps because the end of the y-pipe is a little wider cause it's slip fit? All these little things are starting to add up, I'm at about $1K right now. But I'm willing to pay if it will be easier.
#16
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Ok, now for the Catalytic Converter descussion. Why do people bother putting two cats in the y-pipe, and not where it used to be. Is it cause they have to be close to heat to work? Could I put just one in the "I" part of the ypipe?
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Technically, if your car was originally equipped with dual cats you need to have dual cats on the car. So I put 2 high flow cats, one on each side of the y-pipe. It isn't really legal though because the driver's side cat gets moved down further and you can't change the location of the cats. Most inspections will be happy to see 2 cats and pass you. For 93-95 cars, you could get away with a single cat after the y joins together. But it most likely will be too far away to work properly. And it could make the floor heat up pretty good without shielding.
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Yeh I found out I have 1 cat after the y-pipe. I guess it's called OBD1. So would the cat still work properly if I welded it up where the stock one used to be? Or since its longtubes, is everything pushed back further?