Have I wrung all I can out of this combo?
#1
Have I wrung all I can out of this combo?
Dynoed again today, and nothing changed :-\ I installed a Shaner TB in early September and was severely chastized for not giving it time to learn. I also added an ASP crank pulley. Shaner had me swap back to the stock MAF to help 'smooth' my dyno curve, which really wasn't that bumpy. 4 months of daily driving and no change.
The pulley does seem to help on the street, it would just make my wallet feel better seeing it on paper. Don't drag race anymore, so that's not really a viable tool.
Refer to specs below, and tell me if you'd be dismayed with an everage of 390rwhp & 380rwtq, within the AFR. Am I just expecting too much? A/F was between 11.8 & 12.8 until 3500, then with the MAFT it very slightly declines to 11:1 at 6680.
How much power am I missing due to tuning? How easy is it to fix this myself with LS1-Edit, or should I pay $500-550 to have it dyno-tuned with a wideband using the tuner version of LS1-Edit? I'm sitting on the fence between trying to get Ed to fix it or throw away the money I spent with him and start from scratch. I don't want to go in a worse situation either.
Do the numbers seem OK barring tuning? At least I'm not in Vince's boat...same numbers, same curve even after a few cams & heads. Now that would really **** me off. I'd love to have a G5X2 setup or Cartek Stage X setup making 450-460rwhp, but my luck indicates that I'd just be throwing money down the drain.
Oh, I've got a Frankenstein shortblock, so to speak. I hydrauliced the original shortblock, and in went a used C5 shortblock, and repaired the CNC heads. Then the passenger head needed to be repaired again and a used piston installed when a valvespring broke. Then the driver was repaired due to a separate valvespring incident.
Specs:
'98 Z28 M6
Aftermarket filter & lid
Stock MAF (w/ screen) - Reverted to aid tuning
Shaner S2 ported truck TB
LS6 intake
CNC Inc. 2.02/1.57 heads, milled .030, ~10.8 compression
26918 springs w/ stock retainers
custom-length pushrods
218/226 527/535 112+4 cam
Grot 1.75" w/ carsound cats & his y-pipe, thru cutout
The pulley does seem to help on the street, it would just make my wallet feel better seeing it on paper. Don't drag race anymore, so that's not really a viable tool.
Refer to specs below, and tell me if you'd be dismayed with an everage of 390rwhp & 380rwtq, within the AFR. Am I just expecting too much? A/F was between 11.8 & 12.8 until 3500, then with the MAFT it very slightly declines to 11:1 at 6680.
How much power am I missing due to tuning? How easy is it to fix this myself with LS1-Edit, or should I pay $500-550 to have it dyno-tuned with a wideband using the tuner version of LS1-Edit? I'm sitting on the fence between trying to get Ed to fix it or throw away the money I spent with him and start from scratch. I don't want to go in a worse situation either.
Do the numbers seem OK barring tuning? At least I'm not in Vince's boat...same numbers, same curve even after a few cams & heads. Now that would really **** me off. I'd love to have a G5X2 setup or Cartek Stage X setup making 450-460rwhp, but my luck indicates that I'd just be throwing money down the drain.
Oh, I've got a Frankenstein shortblock, so to speak. I hydrauliced the original shortblock, and in went a used C5 shortblock, and repaired the CNC heads. Then the passenger head needed to be repaired again and a used piston installed when a valvespring broke. Then the driver was repaired due to a separate valvespring incident.
Specs:
'98 Z28 M6
Aftermarket filter & lid
Stock MAF (w/ screen) - Reverted to aid tuning
Shaner S2 ported truck TB
LS6 intake
CNC Inc. 2.02/1.57 heads, milled .030, ~10.8 compression
26918 springs w/ stock retainers
custom-length pushrods
218/226 527/535 112+4 cam
Grot 1.75" w/ carsound cats & his y-pipe, thru cutout