New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - 2000 Camaro SS 100k 6spd + mods how much?

looking at a camaro ss, suppose to be in real clean condition, its black 6sp w/ ttops.

Here is the description:
comp cams 228/228/112lsa, pacesetter long tube headers, tsp Y pipe. descreened maf, lid cut out, new T56 tranny 200miles ago, new 10bolt rear end being put in right now.

Assuming everything is in good condition, how much do you think its worth?

id say anywhere from 10k-13k depending on how well the engine was taken car of oil changes that kind of thing, and body appearance check for scratches and dings before you settle on a price.

how much of a hike is the insurance going to be going from a 93 LT1 formula. I pay like 360 every 6 months. I was thinking of offering around 8500 since I figure the car has been beaten on w/ those mods.

$10-$15k.

What about if the rear end is blown up(which it is). Does 8500 sound reasonable?

The car is worh what you're willing to pay for it. If the guy won't accept $8500, you'll be forced to raise your offering price. Make sure you set a limit though or you'll end up paying much more for it than you would have wanted too.
I paid $17000 for my car after tax and everything...those nags wanted $18000 + TTL. I told them to go screw themselves...so they came down. I bought it at the end of 04 and it had just a little over 10K miles on it, stock, convertible, great looking in and out. Some old guy owned it and traded it for an 05 Vette. I felt I got a great deal...hopefully you can do the same.
I'd say somewhere in the $10's sounds right...as long as the body and interior looks good. Make sure those damn T-Tops don't leak!

Remember though, you're going to have to pay for that car outright or you'll get SCREWED on the interest rate since the car is over 5 years old. They screwed me on my interest rate when I bought my car...so I paid it off in 5 months. I HATE financing stuff.

What about if the rear end is blown up(which it is). Does 8500 sound reasonable?


No, he will never take $8500, even though the rear has been blown up, that doesnt matter because they are putting in a new one and it wouldnt effect anything else. However the mods shouldnt raise the average price of the car you are describing, the owner may want more because of them, but he will be hard pressed to get much more then its average value. I would, if everything is in good condition offer 12k and go from there.

That's car is worth about $10K. I personally wouldn't buy a modded car unless i was doing a track only car.

I really dont see how that car is worth anywhere near 10k, it has obviously been beaten on and probably raced (broken 10 bolt)

If it doesnt have SFCs check for dimples on the rear quarter panels, that will tell you how much he really beat on it. I'd say 100k on a car that was probably beaten on (although that doesnt mean it wasnt maintained well) I'd say its worth more like 8k, run a carfax and see what you dig up too

Maybe worth a little more just because it is an SS

If I were you, I'd just go look at it. Look at the paint and the INT. See how well its been kept.. Is the leatehr conditioned? Is the paint freashly waxed? Swirls? These are good indicators of how the car is mechanicly. Ask fi you can have a oil change proformed, I hear that people can put heavier weight oil in to hide a knock or ping or something. And before you sink 10 grand+ into a car, Take it to a GM dealer and have them do some sort of 100pt check or something on it.

That's car is worth about $10K. I personally wouldn't buy a modded car unless i was doing a track only car.
I agree...and I wouldn't even consider it if there are no welded SFC's on it.

I agree...and I wouldn't even consider it if there are no welded SFC's on it.
What are SFC's? What do you mean by them not being welded? Also, He said he would take 8500 for it w/ out the new rear end since the new rear end is going to be put in soon(so w/ a broken 10 bolt).

That's car is worth about $10K. I personally wouldn't buy a modded car unless i was doing a track only car.

What do you mean by that? You'd only buy a car w/ mods for the track? Or do you think its not reliable? I Just dont understand what you mean by that.

He means that it would be for Race use only and he would drive something else everyday, and I think 10 K is way too much even with a new rear, Not to be biased but once domestic cars hit 100 K they dont hold value like imports with the milage I would pay 8 max, Just look around I found my 2000 T/A w/ 45 K on it for 13,000

He means that it would be for Race use only and he would drive something else everyday, and I think 10 K is way too much even with a new rear, Not to be biased but once domestic cars hit 100 K they dont hold value like imports with the milage I would pay 8 max, Just look around I found my 2000 T/A w/ 45 K on it for 13,000
Thanks for the input. My budget was around 8500, so I could just hold out for another 6 months - year and getting some more in the 13k range, Its just a little tough being 18 and going to college this year. But Im going to offer 8k w/ the new rear and leave it at that.

Sold my 99 SS with more mods H/C full bolt-ons and only 90k to my brother-in-law for 13k. Just try it though, worst he can say is no. Good luck. :)

You can get used 10 bolts here on the forum for 200-300 bucks.

Don't worry about miles

I paid 5700 for a 96 with headers and exhaust with 136 on the clock.

Yea, Spuds has apoint, the miles arent the problem, and ALL f-bodies w/anything more than a lid have been beaten on, it just matters how well it was maintained. check for SFC's and creases in teh rear quarters. And if it checks out, buy it w/the broken 10 bolt and buy one for 300 bucks

If I were you, I'd just go look at it. Look at the paint and the INT. See how well its been kept.. Is the leatehr conditioned? Is the paint freashly waxed? Swirls? These are good indicators of how the car is mechanicly. Ask fi you can have a oil change proformed, I hear that people can put heavier weight oil in to hide a knock or ping or something. And before you sink 10 grand+ into a car, Take it to a GM dealer and have them do some sort of 100pt check or something on it.

I don't quite agree with that at all, when I bought my car it LOOKED completely perfect, however a few months later the bumper started to spiderweb , and I have since found alot of things wrong with the car mechanically that would lead me to believe it has been wrecked, however the carfax was clear of accidents

You didn't happen to have a mechanic or tech look at it before you bought it did ya?

I was just trying to say that if car as creases in the rear 1/4's, rubber inbedded into the rear paint, soot above the exhast tips, fingerbanged up windows, ripped up dirty int, and a hood that the paint doesn't match right and the lines dont line up...
don't buy


lol

Yea, Spuds has apoint, the miles arent the problem, and ALL f-bodies w/anything more than a lid have been beaten on, it just matters how well it was maintained. check for SFC's and creases in teh rear quarters. And if it checks out, buy it w/the broken 10 bolt and buy one for 300 bucks


I dissagree, kinda.

97% of f-bodies have been beaten on. They are sports cars, they are fast, people that buy them know that. Just b/c you give her a little gas, doesn't mean that your not gonna change the oil when its due, and wax the car weekly.... Who buys a sports car and NEVER gives it WOT besides those old foogies?